Box Scraper

[CountFred]

I'm looking to purchase a 6' box scraper. That should cover the rear of my John Deere 4500. What I don't know is what level I might want (light, medium, heavy-duty), and asking the sales reps hasn't been that helpful. Around here (greater Portland, OR area) most seem to stock the Land Pride BB1272, which is about 400lbs I believe. That seems a little light to me, as the advice I've read online seems to indicate that you want 100lbs/ft or up.

However, the salesmen have been telling me that the BB12 series covers the needs of most people. I've got dirt work in paddocks, road cutting/making in some clay soil, and gravel regrading on existing driveways that needs doing, but never having used one not really sure how heavy I want to be.

I've found a few sources that have blades closer to 500lbs, which may be worth the extra $100-$200 of those scrapers.

Looking for other people's thoughts.

 

[bcp]

Light or medium if you are working the surface.

Medium or heavy if you are digging.

Sounds like you have some digging. Add pounds until the money runs out.

Bruce

 

[RNeumann]

Look closely at the attachment points when considering a box. The lighter duty ones have 1 plate and a "cantilever" pin for the lower links. The heavier duty ones capture both sides of the lower links. Also look at how the rippers are attached and captured. I've never paid much attention to the sales pitch of heavy or light duty.
In general the heavier duty ones also have some nicer features like ripper shanks that raise and lower together and options for hydraulic rippers. You may not want hydraulics but those models (ordered without the rams) tend to be the ones that are better built.
With regards to what you need? Get the heaviest baddest well built one you can! You won't regret that approach with the box.

Edit- hopefully you can budget for some hydraulics. Minimum of a hydraulic top link. Top and tilt would be better

 

[RNeumann]

I have an Agri-Ease or Braber box that works well. Gannon (Now under another name) is a great name if you find a used on. If it's Land Pride this is the minimum I would get-

MR15 Series Box Scrapers | Land Pride

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My recommendation would be to get a ROBB. (roll over box blade)No hydraulics needed, heavy and hold up well. There are a couple of other manufacturers as well, none currently quite as good as Eagleline though.

Mine are Gannon, but are no longer made. I have a 65" @ 800lbs and an 81" @ 980lbs.

If you get a std type box blade, plan on getting a hydraulic top link at a minimum.

Good luck with your search and final decision.

 

[CountFred]

Brian - I've definitely been looking at your website to get a Top and Tilt. As soon as Portland melts a little, I was going to do some measurements on my tractor and see about getting an order started. I'm still trying to determine what valve setup to get. JD used to make a 4th and 5th SCV kit for these, but of course it's no longer around, and pricing out the core bits of the kit prices it above what I could get in un-official green. On the other hand the levers would fit right in to existing brackets.

How big (weight, hp, etc...) is the tractor you use your 65" 800lb scraper? Having no clue on these, and knowing my tractor is only around 35hp, I'm concerned about too large a blade not being able to grab much dirt before I can't move it well.

I'm also surprised that no one seems to carry anything above a 500lb scraper in a 6' width. Am I just shopping the wrong tractor places? The used market in the northwest seems pretty devoid of boxes right now. I've been watching CL for a few weeks now and hardly anything over 4'.

 

[jenkinsph]

A six foot heavy duty box blade would be a good match for a 4500. This assumes you have full wheel weights or liquid filled rear tires. I would get the heaviest box blade you can find.

 

[jeff9366]

I'm looking to purchase a 6' box scraper. The advice I've read online seems to indicate that you want 100lbs/ft or up.

I've got dirt work in paddocks, road cutting/making in clay soil, and gravel regrading on existing driveways that needs doing, but never having used one not really sure how heavy I want to be.

100 pounds per foot MINIMUM. Working in clay, you will be happier with 125 pounds per foot. Consider a Rollover Box Blade as well as standard Box Blades. Consider your potential Box Blade not just as a dirt mover but also as rear counterbalance/ballast for the FEL.

Also, consider a Land Plane Grading Scraper (LPGS) for gravel driveway work. LPGS will "bring up" existing gravel, which a Box Blade will not do.

If you do not have a hydraulic Top Link, consider a 'Hyraulink' Top Link which makes operating a Box Blade easier.

HYDRAULINK: HydrauLink Category 1 Cylinder - For 45 HP Tractors or Less, Model# HL-11 - YouTube

rollover box blade versus conventional box blades - Google Search

Any Land Pride dealer can order a heavier Land Pride Box Blade for you.

PHOTOS: 60"/630 pound, Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade

 

[TripleR]

Pretty much what everyone else said, weight is your friend and a hydraulic top-link is going to make life much, much easier especially on a standard scraper, top and tilt even better. I've never used a ROBB, but if my tractor was an open station and I was buying new I'd most likely get one. I use an HR3584, but they are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I sold my 5' Woods box blade several months ago. It weighed 550# and did a good job. I purchased a used 7'' Taylor Way that weighs 650# or so. The Woods had a floating blade where the Taylor Way is fixed. I think the Woods had 3/8" thick side plates where the Taylor is 5/16" thick. I needed a wider unit for my Workmaster. The Taylor does good with the rippers. It was difficult finding a heavy used unit at the time and the Taylor was used only to grade out an area for 4 chicken houses. It was like new. If you can afford it try to get one at least in the 600# range for that width. The advice here is spot on.

 

[Jim in ICT]

Land Pride is a quality product. Also keeps the Kansas economy rolling!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian - I've definitely been looking at your website to get a Top and Tilt. As soon as Portland melts a little, I was going to do some measurements on my tractor and see about getting an order started. I'm still trying to determine what valve setup to get. JD used to make a 4th and 5th SCV kit for these, but of course it's no longer around, and pricing out the core bits of the kit prices it above what I could get in un-official green. On the other hand the levers would fit right in to existing brackets.

How big (weight, hp, etc...) is the tractor you use your 65" 800lb scraper? Having no clue on these, and knowing my tractor is only around 35hp, I'm concerned about too large a blade not being able to grab much dirt before I can't move it well.

I'm also surprised that no one seems to carry anything above a 500lb scraper in a 6' width. Am I just shopping the wrong tractor places? The used market in the northwest seems pretty devoid of boxes right now. I've been watching CL for a few weeks now and hardly anything over 4'.

32HP, HST and weighs 5000lbs. ALL tires are loaded on both of the pictured tractors. 75HP tractor weighs 12,000lbs.

Keep in mind, the heavier box blades cost some $$$. Anywhere from $1500-$4000. The ROBB that I have recommended should be around $2000.

Pictures are of a 5 valve set I did for a 4400.

 

[RNeumann]

I'm seeing all these pics of loaded box scrapers and it has me again wondering how anyone gets anything done without a hydraulic top link! I shorten the top link to cut high spots and then extend the top link to deposit the loaded box evenly and smoothly in low spots.

I learned with hydraulics so I assume I'm spoiled. Lots of better men than I!

 

[jenkinsph]

I'm seeing all these pics of loaded box scrapers and it has me again wondering how anyone gets anything done without a hydraulic top link! I shorten the top link to cut high spots and then extend the top link to deposit the loaded box evenly and smoothly in low spots.

I learned with hydraulics so I assume I'm spoiled. Lots of better men than I!

I use the top and tilt to make adjustments frequently but use the rockshaft to control grade for most work. I use to let the box ride on the rear facing blade for height control. The last few years I have left the tailgate unpinned which allows faster cutting down to grade. Using the rockshaft adjustment allows more accurate control of the cut and fill. Once on grade back dragging a fel or dressing up with a land plane grader scraper does a better job of smoothing than a box blade.

 

[s219]

I'm seeing all these pics of loaded box scrapers and it has me again wondering how anyone gets anything done without a hydraulic top link! I shorten the top link to cut high spots and then extend the top link to deposit the loaded box evenly and smoothly in low spots.

I learned with hydraulics so I assume I'm spoiled. Lots of better men than I!

On my last tractor, I could reach and adjust the manual top link from the seat, which is how I learned. On my current tractor, that's not even close to possible, so I added a hydraulic top link and later hydraulic side link. Really nice to have.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm seeing all these pics of loaded box scrapers and it has me again wondering how anyone gets anything done without a hydraulic top link! I shorten the top link to cut high spots and then extend the top link to deposit the loaded box evenly and smoothly in low spots.

I learned with hydraulics so I assume I'm spoiled. Lots of better men than I!

A couple of things here.

First, all these pictures in this thread show roll over box blades.(ROBB) I have to assume that you have NEVER used a ROBB. I hydraulic top link does NOTHING to facilitate the use of a ROBB.

Second, the blue and red tractors have complete top & tilt sets on them, so not sure where you get all these loaded box blades with no hydraulic top links? :confused3:

 

[Thomas]

I'm looking to purchase a 6' box scraper. That should cover the rear of my John Deere 4500. What I don't know is what level I might want (light, medium, heavy-duty), and asking the sales reps hasn't been that helpful. Around here (greater Portland, OR area) most seem to stock the Land Pride BB1272, which is about 400lbs I believe. That seems a little light to me, as the advice I've read online seems to indicate that you want 100lbs/ft or up.

However, the salesmen have been telling me that the BB12 series covers the needs of most people. I've got dirt work in paddocks, road cutting/making in some clay soil, and gravel regrading on existing driveways that needs doing, but never having used one not really sure how heavy I want to be.

I've found a few sources that have blades closer to 500lbs, which may be worth the extra $100-$200 of those scrapers.

Looking for other people's thoughts.

..........................
If I,I would go heavy,you never know what hidden under the surface or what projects in the future.

 

[Catman8]

I just bought a Box Blade and have no experiance using it yet, and when I was at a rental yard I noticed how warn down this one was. So when does a box blade become unusable, and if they get ground down this much why don't they have replaceable edges or hard facing on the bottoms.

 

[Xfaxman]

This six footer with a hinged rear blade, weighs 647 pounds and has a lever to raise or lower the scarifiers.

Got it at an auction about five years ago.

 

[TripleR]

I just bought a Box Blade and have no experiance using it yet, and when I was at a rental yard I noticed how warn down this one was. So when does a box blade become unusable, and if they get ground down this much why don't they have replaceable edges or hard facing on the bottoms.

View attachment 494890

That is not worn down as much as you might think, some are "high back" to begin with like mine.




HR35 & HRL35 Series Box Scrapers | Land Pride