Bought a trailer!

[aczlan]

Like the look of those ramps.

Technical question on the derate. Rated for 9990, but is heavier than one built for 10000. So legally you can actually put less o it than if it was built for 9990?

Correct. Off road, you can use it to its full capacity, but to use it with a truck that has a GVWR of 26,000# or more without getting a CDL, you have to keep the trailer weight under 10,000#.

Aaron Z

 

[plowhog]

I like the looks of those stake pocket tie down rings. Gotta get some of those!

If I want some side stakes for hauling logs or firewood, do most people make the side stakes DIY, or are there sources for those?

btw, the ramps are interesting. They extend and act as a ramp, but fold flat as shown in the picture. There is a 3rd option. The "bottom" part of the ramp is fixed, like a beaver tail. The folding top part can be folded part-way up to the vertical position, and then fixed in that position during tow without having to fold it flat. So you can get full use of the entire length of trailer, if needed.

 

[94BULLITT]

I like the looks of those stake pocket tie down rings. Gotta get some of those!

If I want some side stakes for hauling logs or firewood, do most people make the side stakes DIY, or are there sources for those?

btw, the ramps are interesting. They extend and act as a ramp, but fold flat as shown in the picture. There is a 3rd option. The "bottom" part of the ramp is fixed, like a beaver tail. The folding top part can be folded part-way up to the vertical position, and then fixed in that position during tow without having to fold it flat. So you can get full use of the entire length of trailer, if needed.

Click on the stake pocket tie down link the scroll down to related products and there are bolt on and weld on stake pockets. You might find them on ebay cheap too.

 

[3930dave]

You actually need a CDL to pull a 14,000lb. trailer?

Depends on your State/Provincial legislation. Farms can get specific exemptions (again, depending where you live), but usually only for Ag type trailers (meaning low speed forage wagons, spreaders......).

Here, unless it is an RV, @10,000# you need a CDL.

The one semi-sensible move that the province made here was to come up with a Restricted Class A option. They created that class for someone only pulling are relatively small float behind a 1 ton PU (as an example) - in other words a smaller truck/trailer combo that does not use/need air-brakes.

Nice trailer OP ! A buddy was moving back from California a number of years ago and when he told me what he was going to get charged to rent a trailer I convinced to look at buying one. Big Tex was a brand I suggested he look at and he went with a 16footer that served him well.

Rgds, D.

 

[fried1765]

Correct. Off road, you can use it to its full capacity, but to use it with a truck that has a GVWR of 26,000# or more without getting a CDL, you have to keep the trailer weight under 10,000#.

Aaron Z

I am confused!
Like the OP, I bought a 14,000 GVW trailer because it has heavier axles etc.
I do not have a CDL, and at 76 years old, I have absolutely no intention of getting one.
I do not tow, or move, my personal (play) equipment for hire.
My frame mounted hitch (I also use a 14K Equal-i-zer) is rated for 12,000 lbs., as that is the max rated hitch available for my vehicle.
My tow vehicle is a K2500 GMC 4x4 Suburban with 7.3L V-8
I realize that some states have differences, but in general, am I legal if I tow the 12,000 lb. loaded trailer?
The combined GVW, with the Suburban is 20,650 lbs.
Because of the hitch limitation, I will never load the trailer above 12,000 lbs., but I do want to keep the rated/registered trailer GVW at 14,000 lbs. for possible use with a different tow vehicle.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

In NC you need a Class A to tow over 10,000 lbs. If you are doing it commercial you need a Class A CDL.

 

[George2615]

It depends on your state DMV laws. Here in NY your Suburban can tow your 14K trailer with a regular class D license since the GCWR of both is less than 26,000 lbs. Like Aaron said, if the towing vehicle is above 26K then your trailer would have to be 10K or less or a CDL would be required.
You could upgrade the tow vehicle to one that has a 12K GVW rating and still be legal with the 14K trailer without a CDL.

 

[coldsteelva]

Quick side-jack since I have a GC1720 - would it be better to cross the front straps (left pocket to right bucket hook, right pocket to left bucket hook) to limit lateral movement or is the OP's method better?

 

[aczlan]

I am confused!
Like the OP, I bought a 14,000 GVW trailer because it has heavier axles etc.
I do not have a CDL, and at 76 years old, I have absolutely no intention of getting one.
I do not tow, or move, my personal (play) equipment for hire.
My frame mounted hitch (I also use a 14K Equal-i-zer) is rated for 12,000 lbs., as that is the max rated hitch available for my vehicle.
My tow vehicle is a K2500 GMC 4x4 Suburban with 7.3L V-8
I realize that some states have differences, but in general, am I legal if I tow the 12,000 lb. loaded trailer?
The combined GVW, with the Suburban is 20,650 lbs.
Because of the hitch limitation, I will never load the trailer above 12,000 lbs., but I do want to keep the rated/registered trailer GVW at 14,000 lbs. for possible use with a different tow vehicle.

You should be fine. The issue is when the GCWR (truck gross weight rating + trailer gross weight rating) is over 26k AND the trailer GVWR is over 10k. Then you may need a CDL (depending on the state of registration).
Federal limits are that a truck with a GVWR over 26k with a trailer GVWR over 10k (for a total of 36k GCWR) needs a CDL.
Some states use that number, others say if the GCWR is over 26k and the trailer is over 10k, you need a CDL.
In your case, your GCWR is 20,650#, so you are fine.

Aaron Z

 

[aczlan]

Quick side-jack since I have a GC1720 - would it be better to cross the front straps (left pocket to right bucket hook, right pocket to left bucket hook) to limit lateral movement or is the OP's method better?

It depends on where your trailer attachment points are. If you mostly want to prevent lateral movement, you would want the tiedown to be straight across the trailer, if you want to prevent foward/back as well, it needs to be at an angle front to back as well.
An ideal tiedown would be at a 45 degree angle up/down as well as forward/back. That will hold equally well to keep the load from lifting, going forward/back or going from side to side.
If you look at the OP's box blade, it is well strapped down to keep it from moving from side to side as well as up and down, but if it were a wheeled load, there wouldn't be much to keep it from moving forward/back.
That is why on the tractor, the OP has the chains going forward/back and up/down at roughly a 45 degree angle.
The way the OP has the bucket strapped down will hold well to keep the bucket from going backward, but it wont hold as well for side to side or up/down as it would if the strap was connected to the next stake pocket back.

Aaron Z