Ag Tires versus Industrial tires

[bindian]

Oh-oh; when's someone gona post a picture of what may be a real disk.

Egon,
:confused3::confused3:
hugs, Brandi

 

[CADplans]

Every R1 tire I have seen is four ply.

I just wanted to say that there are ag tires with more than 4 plies.

I just purchased these rear tires,,, 6 ply,,,, they replaced 6 ply tires,,,

I guess they want you to know the tires and wheels are made in the USA!!?? :laughing:

The front tires are 6 ply,,, also,, :thumbsup:

 

[pmsmechanic]

For the kind of work that you talk about doing I would buy turf tires. They have the most traction in everything but mud and they ride the smoothest. For me riding the smoothest is the important part. I spend a lot of hours every year on my tractor and the last I checked I wasn't getting any younger. I have more than adequate traction on my John Deere 4410 with 14" wide tires on the rear and 12" wide on the front.

 

[CADplans]

the last I checked I wasn't getting any younger. I have more than adequate traction on my John Deere 4410 with 14" wide tires on the rear and 12" wide on the front.

A 4410 with turfs and hydro drive would be my dream machine,, until I find one,, I will get by with my JD 650 and turfs.

I have perfect traction for mowing,, it never even needs 4WD.
I have even worked the driveway with it,,, using a 7 foot blade,,,

The 650 runs out of power long before it runs out of traction!! :laughing:

 

[pmsmechanic]

If I need more traction I just add my duals.

 

[CADplans]

Another fact to consider with R1 tires is bar spacing.
My new tires have the bars spaced almost 2 inches closer than the old R1 tires that were replaced.

Lots of bars on the ground rides much better!! :thumbsup:

I do not know how that effects traction??

 

[Spindifferent]

Hi CADplans,

Could you let us know where you purchased the tires and the approx. cost? I'm knee-deep in the R1 vs R4 decision process for my JD 3520.

Thanks!

 

[CADplans]

Hi CADplans,

Could you let us know where you purchased the tires and the approx. cost? I'm knee-deep in the R1 vs R4 decision process for my JD 3520.

Thanks!

A local dealer had them,, a one time thing,, or something like that.
$1400 for the tires and wheels. There are great delivered prices on eBay.
My original tires were 1979 vintage,, and were loaded with calcium.
I was afraid the wheel could fail from rust,, the fronts were dry rotted, and were replaced a few years ago.

I am abusive to my tires,,,

 

[Threepoint]

For the kind of work that you talk about doing I would buy turf tires. They have the most traction in everything but mud and they ride the smoothest. For me riding the smoothest is the important part. I spend a lot of hours every year on my tractor and the last I checked I wasn't getting any younger. I have more than adequate traction on my John Deere 4410 with 14" wide tires on the rear and 12" wide on the front.

+1 on this, for the work described. Cougsfan, congratulations on the new tractor. I know the dealer said Ag or Industrial, but he probably has those in stock already. He can order big turfs from Titan, etc. just as easily. There might be a small up-charge. I'd really consider that now for your intended use. No do-over once you take delivery. The tread on the big Titans is plenty aggressive. Good for everything but heavy field work in loose soil. They'll do just fine in snow for loader and blade work. In fact, it's my experience that on rough ice and hard-pack they outperform R1s and R4s hands down.

A couple more things to consider with tire selection: The affect on tractor width and height. Turfs will increase your tractor width, sidewall to sidewall. Nice for lateral stability, but they affect how you transport it off-site. Overall width on my 45 hp tractor with rear Titan 21.5L-16.1 turfs is about 83". So it requires a deck-over trailer or a roll-back truck. At the same time, overall tractor height will be slightly lower with the turfs than with R4s, and lower still than with R1s. Check overhead clearance at your garage, barn or storage building now.

fyi, I've attached a couple of pics of the R3s on my NX4510HSTcab to give you an idea.

 

[jeff9366]

However, you probably cannot fit wide Turf Tires in a plow furrow, so you cannot moldboard plow with turfs.

 

[pmsmechanic]

However, you probably cannot fit wide Turf Tires in a plow furrow, so you cannot moldboard plow with turfs.

This statement depends on a few things. If you plow slow then the plow share does not leave a wide enough furrow to comfortably fit a wider turf tire into. This is true even for a 14" tire in a 14" plow furrow. If you plow at a fast enough speed to throw the dirt then you can get a 14" tire to easily fit into a 12" furrow.

 

[jeff9366]

A Disc Harrow is supposed to 'throw dirt'.

A Moldboard Plow is supposed to invert soil, laying it over, roots up, next to the furrow. In my experience, this happens only in a narrow, moderate, speed range.

You may move dirt moving fast but you will not be plowing.

Post a picture of your results fast plowing, please.

I learn new things on this site, regularly.

 

[4570Man]

I have turf tires in my B7200. On this machine that would be my first choice of tires. Ironically this is the only tractor I've never gotten stuck, and it's my first choice to run through mud holes with. If I get it stuck it's easily pulled out. My bigger tractors are a more involved recovery mission. I wouldn't want turf tires on my bigger machines. R4s are much better for overall use.

 

[pmsmechanic]

A Disc Harrow is supposed to 'throw dirt'.

A Moldboard Plow is supposed to invert soil, laying it over, roots up, next to the furrow. In my experience, this happens only in a narrow, moderate, speed range.

You may move dirt moving fast but you will not be plowing.

Post a picture of your results fast plowing, please.

I learn new things on this site, regularly.

We used to plow all the time with a 4020 with 18.4's on it pulling 5 bottom 16" plow. While warming it up first thing in the morning you would plow for about half an hour at slower speeds. There was not nearly a wide enough furrow for an 18.4 at 3-4 mph but we did it anyways as the cultivator would smooth things over later. Once the tractor was warmed and plowing was at about 5.5 mph there was room in a 16" furrow for a 18.4" rear tire. If you really want to see it you can go and try it for yourself with your own plow. Try plowing at different speeds and measure the width of the furrow. You'll soon see what I mean.

 

[CADplans]

We used to plow all the time with a 4020 with 18.4's on it pulling 5 bottom 16" plow. While warming it up first thing in the morning you would plow for about half an hour at slower speeds. There was not nearly a wide enough furrow for an 18.4 at 3-4 mph but we did it anyways as the cultivator would smooth things over later. Once the tractor was warmed and plowing was at about 5.5 mph there was room in a 16" furrow for a 18.4" rear tire. If you really want to see it you can go and try it for yourself with your own plow. Try plowing at different speeds and measure the width of the furrow. You'll soon see what I mean.

I used to plow 90 acres a day (LONG day) with a JD 4630 and a 6-18" plow.
Do the math,,, I had to be going fast, if I was plowing at 4 MPH, the 24 hours in a day would not have been long enough.
I did burn 11 gallons of fuel an hour,, and would run out of fuel easily before noon, if someone did not show up with fuel.
I was plowing at 6+ MPH,, furrow size was not a concern,, I was using an on-land hitch.
The plow was turning over 10" minimum,,, that was required by my BIL.
The field looked like it had been disked when plowed at that speed.
The 90 acres were double disked, and planted,, all in the same day.
We burned a LOT of fuel!!:cool2:

 

[bindian]

I used to plow 90 acres a day (LONG day) with a JD 4630 and a 6-18" plow.
Do the math,,, I had to be going fast, if I was plowing at 4 MPH, the 24 hours in a day would not have been long enough.
I did burn 11 gallons of fuel an hour,, and would run out of fuel easily before noon, if someone did not show up with fuel.
I was plowing at 6+ MPH,, furrow size was not a concern,, I was using an on-land hitch.
The plow was turning over 10" minimum,,, that was required by my BIL.
The field looked like it had been disked when plowed at that speed.
The 90 acres were double disked, and planted,, all in the same day.
We burned a LOT of fuel!!:cool2:

Yep....newer plows are higher speed plows. 7-8 or so mph
hugs, Brandi

 

[Threepoint]

And then there's no-til farming, altogether. Was watching Maryland Farm & Harvest the other day on MPT. Seems to be a growing management practice in the estuary and coastal watersheds.

 

[pmsmechanic]

And then there's no-til farming, altogether. Was watching Maryland Farm & Harvest the other day on MPT. Seems to be a growing management practice in the estuary and coastal watersheds.

Here 20 years ago plowing was very common. Now you hardly ever see it any more.

 

[Cougsfan]

This site is wonderful. Thanks for all the input. It was valuable in helping me make up my mind. All the side discussions are interesting too. I ended up changing my mind again and again over this long weekend. I just can't develop the confidence in my mind that Turf tires would work as well in slick conditions, despite claims to the contrary. I could be wrong, but I am not willing to experiment with such a big cost to change once you choose. If I were a hard core farmer I would probably go with AG tires, but I am not, so I went with the r-4's.
Next year I will be giving my own subjective opinion on this topic. Don't know what it is yet

 

[4570Man]

I think you made the right decision with R4s. Turfs suck in mud. The only reason I've never been stuck with turfs is because I'm running huge tires on a light tractor. The ground pressure is very low and they don't sink.