Ballast To load or not to load. That is the question.

[powerscol]

Load - you will not believe the difference for the better. Before loading mine I had to be careful picking up a bucket of soil (nose heavy and traction lost) With them loaded not a worry in the world. Also made snow plowing better too - better traction.

 

[oosik]

I've always had loaded rear tires and some type of implement on the 3-point. My rear tires are spread out to their widest(80") also. I became involved in the "teeter-totter" situation with my previous tractor and I never want that experience again.

Extra weight(Rimguard @ 740#/tire) and some type of 3-point implement(usually a rear blade @ 650#) simply provides additional stability & traction. When I use the grapple, its frequently at or near the max lifting ability - whether a log or big rock.

My ground is alway hard as a rock - including my lawns. Under the most intense loaded condition the tractor simply scuffs up the grass and barely leaves any impressions.

Move your tires out to their widest setting - if its possible. Put an implement on the 3-point--- see how it works. If you feel more weight is needed then consider filling the rear tires.

 

[Amvcane]

You said you will be running a 3pt snowblower with R4s in Canada. I vote for loading or iron wheel weights.
I don't know, but I'm curious as to the amount of weight per tire each has to offer.
I have a CK35 with Rimguard loaded rears and only have issues driving on grass in the early Spring or after an inch or two of rain.
I have no issues doing loader work with this as my only ballast.

 

[kas2960]

I've always had loaded rear tires and some type of implement on the 3-point. My rear tires are spread out to their widest(80") also. I became involved in the "teeter-totter" situation with my previous tractor and I never want that experience again.

That is sort of what the farmer down the road said to me. Lifted the whole rear off the ground long time back. Never again.

 

[kas2960]

If your lawn is continuously soft maybe a heavy tractor isn't for you.



I


My JD manual says to load tires plus have a rear weight (Ballast Box) plus put cast iron weights on the wheels. I ran out of money before I could put cast iron weights on so I do without.

I hear you on that last sentence brother Right now we have gone with out any significant rain for weeks. My bees have stopped bring in any honey. Only worried about the lawn in the spring as right now it is as hard as concrete. Pretty sure I will make a small road into the woods near my shed so I should be able to have the option to avoid the lawn.

 

[holeycow]

This whole discussion is sadly hilarious to a farmer.

The cheapest and best way to add the NECESSARY weight to the rear of a tractor to make it SAFE to operate with a loader is to load the rear tires. Add wheel weights too if you want, but it takes a lot of iron to weigh up to as much as fluid.

Implement dangling off the rear is optional and probably necessary with some tractors. As pointed out, cantilevered weight also takes a load off the front end. Many tractors have somewhat fragile front ends. Even some stout ones.

I bought my DK90 after having loaders on other, mostly larger tractors (with loaded rears). I thought that the factory cast rear wheels might be enough weight to avoid loading the tires (note that ALL of my tractors have had cast rears). It took about 3 scoops of dirt on a slight downhill incline to tell me that running this tractor without additional rear ballast would be STUPID. I knew right away that I wouldn't want to be hauling round bales around like that! My wife, who has considerable tractor driving experience, still thinks that the DK is a little light at times when using the loader compared to our larger loader tractor. I agree.We try to be careful with loads.

FWA is not designed to compensate for lack of weight. It is there so you can steer and to help in soft conditions

Most newer small (small being anything "utility" and down )tractors do not weigh up, nor do they have a long wheelbase. They also have a lot of horsepower and hydraulic power for their size. They are dangerous when doing loader work without some weight in the back. Again; the easiest,best weight is fluid.

The misinformation on here sometimes is staggering. The "my pappy's pappy" guy thinks he's funny.

This reminds me of the block heater discussions and the winter fuel discussions.....

 

[kas2960]

Thanks every one. Going to "juice" the tires, and will invest in some sort of rear ballast.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Don't go nuts with the rear ballast investment until you've worked your loader. I found I don't need a rear ballast. My loaded tires are sufficient even with a full bucket of dirt. They don't feel even slightly light.

 

[powerscol]

Agree - wait on the rear ballast until you have them loaded. If I am doing something really heavy with my folks, I connect up one of my implements like my box blade, or tiller for the ballast. I only need to do that a few times a year. I do all my hay work with no ballast.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Well, finally pulled the pin and bought a new CK4010H. Should be getting it next week. Had a couple of the farmers stop by for a pop and both gave me a tongue lashing for not loading the tires In their own words. You'll be sorry. What is everyone else experience with this? I will be doing firewood and pushing snow around in the winter and what ever else presents itself for loader work. Thanks.

Since its summer you have time to sample it for awhile with tires empty. - Then fill with water and check out the difference. ... Then, depending, drain and fill with beet juice; or just drain. I anticipate youll decide to load. :confused3:

 

[oldpilgrim]

Since its summer you have time to sample it for awhile with tires empty. - Then fill with water and check out the difference. ... Then, depending, drain and fill with beet juice; or just drain. I anticipate youll decide to load. :confused3:

Disagree. Get them loaded at the dealer before you bring it home. Then you won't be posting a question here about how to mount those heavy loaded tires on your tractor.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Disagree. Get them loaded at the dealer before you bring it home. Then you won't be posting a question here about how to mount those heavy loaded tires on your tractor.

I disagree with your disagreement. The tires do need to be loaded, no question in my mind, if not just for a superior ride. But for him to actually know and feel the difference between the two, run it dry and then fill. As most of us know, it becomes a totally different machine. As far as filling, fill them on the tractor, no reason to take them off.

Just my experience with both of my utility tractors, 32hp & 75hp.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I disagree with your disagreement of my disagreement.

I did as you suggest, getting it without the loading. Just because I didn't want to spend the money at the time and wasn't sure if I'd need it. After a few days of using it, I wished I had sprung for it at purchase.

I took my wheels off, and brought them to the dealer. Fortunately my brother has a tractor to lift them into my truck and take them out again when I got them back. They are a beast to handle.

I could have dragged the whole tractor back, as I have a trailer but chose not to pull it back there through quite a bit of city traffic.

I'm just suggesting the OP do it when he gets the thing and save himself the big trouble of either unmounting/remounting or dragging the tractor back to the dealer, because he will NEED them filled.He might as well take care of it before it becomes a hassle to do it.

If he chooses to fill them himself, that's another issue, but most people don't do it.

 

[holeycow]

Have them filled, why screw around? The experiment has been done. Let those other guys fart around with a light rearend and bouncy tires. Although it IS nice to know the difference...it is apparent and obvious the first time you use the loader and the first time you use road gear.

Get a block heater installed at the dealer too. Just a regular frost plug heater is fine (as long as it is correct for your block). No need to have a circulating heater in the rad hose.

Make sure you have changed over to winter fuel in time for winter. Most fuel is gradually changed over to "full winter" by about the middle to the end of November (around here anyway). You need to be changed over by then too...

WooHoo! New tractor on the way!

 

[k0ua]

But filling them yourself with WW fluid or RV antifreeze is pretty easy. Not so much with beet juice because I don't think they sell it to you... maybe some places. Water fill is even easier. But water doesn't work well here in the winter.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I disagree with your disagreement of my disagreement.

I did as you suggest, getting it without the loading. Just because I didn't want to spend the money at the time and wasn't sure if I'd need it. After a few days of using it, I wished I had sprung for it at purchase.

I took my wheels off, and brought them to the dealer. Fortunately my brother has a tractor to lift them into my truck and take them out again when I got them back. They are a beast to handle.

I could have dragged the whole tractor back, as I have a trailer but chose not to pull it back there through quite a bit of city traffic.

I'm just suggesting the OP do it when he gets the thing and save himself the big trouble of either unmounting/remounting or dragging the tractor back to the dealer, because he will NEED them filled.He might as well take care of it before it becomes a hassle to do it.

If he chooses to fill them himself, that's another issue, but most people don't do it.

I guess it comes down to if he actually is curious to know and feel the difference, or if he wants to just take our word for it, that it is the way to go. Also if he is not up to filling himself, than forget it and just get them filled. I am very happy that I operated both of my utility tractors without filled tires. That way I know for a fact how superior they are with filled tires. This applies to both size machines, day and night difference in both comfort and tractor capabilities. :thumbsup:

 

[IXLR8]

I have a DK40 with loaded rears, when doing loader work I can easily lift the rear tires if I don't have at least 400lbs of ballast on the rear.

 

[kas2960]

I called the dealer and I am having the tires filled. As I searched more on the net. There is just to much compelling evidence to fill the tires and/or load the rear end with ballast. Not going to screw around with this. The problem, as I see it, when I find out that I should have filled them, it will not be a positive moment in my life I suspect I'm not going to chance it. I will however, not rush out to get rear ballast, I will carefully experiment to see what the limits are. Tractor is hopefully going to be delivered on Friday

 

[oldpilgrim]

 

[kromc5]

Loaded tires are wonderful, for few years I used a king kutter dirt scoop to dig and move dirt. My 4320 had trouble in our pipe clay land. Did not have the loader or loaded tires and struggled to get traction even with the 4wd and diff lock with the dirt scoop. I'm sure the loader helps a lot but was very surprised even on down hill how much traction I got on the nx.