My new Ford 4000

[kuschneider]

Here is a 1963 Ford 4000 S-o-S. My buddy and I are getting this from a co-worker of his in exchange for some labor around her place, and possibly a little cash. We were at $650 for the tractor, brush hog, and blade. Then she started listing stuff she would like us to do in exchange, so the out of pocket expense keeps going down, which is good.


Here is what we know.

Hasn't run in several years
Has a 6V generator, but a 12V ignition coil, and 12 v battery from walmart
Oil was full, dirty, but no sign of water
Radiator has clear, green coolant.
Was gas in tank, needs to be removed and cleaned
Got sediment bowl off and cleaned. Screen, gaskets on the way
Rebuild kit for carb on the way.
Going to need an air cleaner

Serial Number is 23450
Model 41105

Tires are pretty rough, but hold air
Sheet metal has a lot of rust, gonna be a bear to get off to remove tank.

I have an external gas tank that I threw together to test with to get it running.


Look forward to getting in back in action and working. I have a small place, 20 acres, that I hunt on, and the tractor will be use mainly for brush hogging, discing, and general tasks around the place.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Disconnect lever located on the round plate next to the hydraulic dip stick. Unbolt the lever flip it around and move it to disengage the trans from the rear. You might have to rock the tire while trying to move the lever. Dragging the tractor in park could cause damage to the trans.
Good luck with your new tractor.

 

[kuschneider]

Kirk,

Luckily I got my hands on an operators manual and I had read it before we moved it home. We had to get it down a steep hill from where is was sitting to my trailer. I was able disengage the tranny and load her up.

thanks

 

[kuschneider]

Hot D@mn she runs! Cleaned the plugs, set the gap on the points, rebuilt the carb and a little starter fluid and it fired off. The lift arm raised and held position even when the engine was off, and the PTO engaged when the knob was pulled.

Needs some wiring for sure, oil change, other fluids replaced, new hose, gas tank reconditioned. Good news is that we cleared some hurdles today.

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Always nice to hear them pop and fire up after they have been sitting a while. Good job

Kirk

 

[kuschneider]

OK, after some reading I think I got the sheet metal removing figured out. We need to take the two large phillips head bolts out where the side panels attach the the dash cowling. See Pic

Then the two bolts inside that are basically behind the air cleaner, these also attach the the top hood panels to the center console/dash/cowling thingy.


Then the 8 bolts that run around the bottom of the dog legs, and in front of the grill? Also being away of anything attached to the hood assembling before lifting it off so as to not screw more stuff up?

 

[ovrszd]

Congrats!!!

At $650 she's a bargain!!!

 

[kuschneider]

Congrats!!!

At $650 she's a bargain!!!

We did a little light electrical and carpentry as trade... ZERO OUT OF POCKET

 

[Kirk-NJ]

You don't have to take the 4 bolts off in the front under the grill to get the sheet metal off only the 2 bolts each side at the bottom of the doglegs.

Kirk

 

[Soundguy]

Great price!!!

 

[kuschneider]

Couple of questions after working today. Based on the S/N # and model # i posted can you help me with the following questions.

1) I got the sheet metal off, and the gas tank removed. The previous owner had a length of rubber fuel line running from the tank to the sediment bowl. Assuming a real fuel line is best, I am trying to determine the correct part from the parts diagram. I am thinking part # 86580561. Don't see it a lot when I google it, it says for tractors after SN 126524, part #310918 says for before S/N 126525 which my tractor is and I see it is a lot more common. Not sure which is correct for my application.

2) With the SOS Speed transmission, it has the PTO handle that is pulled to engage the PTO. Right now the driveline is disengaged via the strap that is by the tranny dipstick. When the tractor runs the PTO shaft spins, should it spin at ALL if the lever is pushed all the way in? Should be spin at full speed if the handle is pulled out even when the tranny is disengaged? After additional research it sounds like it isn't uncommon, but I should be able to press a 2x4 on the PTO to stop the spinning if it isn't actually powered....still have the question IF it SHOULD be able to spin under power with the tranny disengaged and the handle pulled out

3) The tractor doesnt seem to have the "inching pedal" i have read about the on the inter webs and in the manual. Rather it has what it appears to be a clutch with a full range of motion (10-11")

Good news is that after replacing the plugs that the tractor starts without the use of starting fluid. I will be moving on to some wiring concerns. Thanks is advance.

Kurt

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Here is a photo of my 871 inching pedal. Yours should be similar. Possibly someone replaced it with something else. Post a photo if you can.
Yes the PTO will spin when lever for driveline is disengaged. You are disengaging the trans to rear not the pto.
I never cared for ford's gas line routing through the manifold I run a steel line from the tank towards the front of the engine bend into come around over the alt/genny, sometimes will add rubber hose, and easy access shut off. If I remember correctly some of the earlier lines were 1/4 and some were 3/8 depending on the carb/manifold you have.

Kirk

 

[Soundguy]

Here is a photo of my 871 inching pedal. Yours should be similar. Possibly someone replaced it with something else. Post a photo if you can.
Yes the PTO will spin when lever for driveline is disengaged. You are disengaging the trans to rear not the pto.
I never cared for ford's gas line routing through the manifold I run a steel line from the tank towards the front of the engine bend into come around over the alt/genny, sometimes will add rubber hose, and easy access shut off. If I remember correctly some of the earlier lines were 1/4 and some were 3/8 depending on the carb/manifold you have.

Kirk

same fuel line routing I use as well.

 

[kuschneider]

OK,

Here is a picture of what I have....

So you bend your own fuel lines? I can appreciate that, but that really isn't something I can pull off. I just need to determine the correct part # for my rig.

 

[bjr]

I traded a old running Ford Taurus for a non running, '64 4000 with the four cyl. diesel and SOS, LCG (Low Center of Gravity) orchard tractor, I think. I wound up rebuilding the engine, put in used torque plate (these can go away and you can't buy new) put on all new tires, new brakes, new fenders, new exhaust system, new front axle pivot bushings and sleeve, and new paint. Where I finally drew the line was a local diesel pump rebuilder wanted $850 to rebuild the fuel pump. Sold the tractor instead. I didn't break even but now at least, I not throwing money down a pit. If they break the PTO cable and the transimission cables probably won't be found new. Oh, yeah, change the transmission oil right off the bat. and make sure she shifts thru all ten gears and both reverses. I did like the low speed 1st gear for tilling. bjr

 

[Soundguy]

OK,

Here is a picture of what I have....View attachment 475680

So you bend your own fuel lines? I can appreciate that, but that really isn't something I can pull off. I just need to determine the correct part # for my rig.

rolling your own fuel line is easier than typing it.

You buy premade brake line at a store like napa for a few bucks. already has flare and ends on it. buy a piece as long or a hair longer than you need. ( if it's too long, you can just get creative to make it take up more length in some of the bends.

The tool to bend brake line is just sheet metal and a small supporting cup, usually the tool will bend a couple sizes of tube.. and they are cheap from cheap tool stores.

You can also hit those cheap tool stores and buy a flare kit that has a tube cutter, bender, flare block and press, reamer, etc for not much $

Depening on the application it may be possible to do a multi part line, some rubber, some metal. all depends on what/when/where/.

Really.. No joke. The line I made up for my 950 from a piece of straight line with ends at napa took less time to bend than typing this message... really... the line is soft and bends easy.. just use the radius tool to bend it...

 

[kuschneider]

rolling your own fuel line is easier than typing it.

You buy premade brake line at a store like napa for a few bucks. already has flare and ends on it. buy a piece as long or a hair longer than you need. ( if it's too long, you can just get creative to make it take up more length in some of the bends.

The tool to bend brake line is just sheet metal and a small supporting cup, usually the tool will bend a couple sizes of tube.. and they are cheap from cheap tool stores.

You can also hit those cheap tool stores and buy a flare kit that has a tube cutter, bender, flare block and press, reamer, etc for not much $

Depening on the application it may be possible to do a multi part line, some rubber, some metal. all depends on what/when/where/.

Really.. No joke. The line I made up for my 950 from a piece of straight line with ends at napa took less time to bend than typing this message... really... the line is soft and bends easy.. just use the radius tool to bend it...

OK, I can get a pretty cheap tool at Harbor Freight and pre-made tube from Napa.

 

[Soundguy]

you can get them cheaper than that tool as well. indeed, just a couple bucks for a sheet metal one with a track or 2 for 1/4 and 5/16 tube and a small and large radius bend.

 

[kuschneider]

Any ideas on my clutch/inching pedal? Feel very little if any resistance when I press it down

 

[ovrszd]

For unknown reasons I'm guessing the inch pedal was replaced with a standard pedal. Maybe the inching pedal fell off?