Some NOS PowerArc 160's

/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #82  
Yeah, I'm a disorganized person.
As I told k0ua, I'm trying to fill out the registration on my PowerArc 160 and can't find a paper receipt. I got an order summary through my email. Is this the receipt? Have you guys gotten a paper receipt in the box, did one come later? The five year warranty looks mighty good and I don't want to void it.
Thanks,
Stuck
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's
  • Thread Starter
#85  
Your receipts should be included in the shipping and tracking email. The "summary" is your invoice. It should give you the amount (with a back figured amount for shipping) you paid, date etc. I think it is sent as an attachment?
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's
  • Thread Starter
#86  
I think, and I repeat I THINK, I have gotten around to contacting everyone expecting me to pm or call. Please let me know if I haven't.
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's
  • Thread Starter
#87  
To answer everyone's pms and emails publicly, in case I haven't gotten to them on an individual basis, yes we do have more available. Sold a lot, but still a few left.
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #88  
OK, bare with me on this, and try not to laugh too hard. I purchased a 160 and it should be here next Monday (pushed back from tomorrow by UPS). My plan was to switch out one of the 220 plugs in my garage to the outlet mentioned above. That's when I realized... I don't have a 220 plug in my garage like I thought. :mur:. So... short of trenching a semi temporary outlet from the basement to the garage (tri-level house, garage is separated from basement by about a 10' entryway on a pad, no easily accessible walls to run new wire, etc) do I have any feasible options? Or will I just be holding onto the welder until I get my pole barn built... in a few years.
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #89  
OK, bare with me on this, and try not to laugh too hard. I purchased a 160 and it should be here next Monday (pushed back from tomorrow by UPS). My plan was to switch out one of the 220 plugs in my garage to the outlet mentioned above. That's when I realized... I don't have a 220 plug in my garage like I thought. :mur:. So... short of trenching a semi temporary outlet from the basement to the garage (tri-level house, garage is separated from basement by about a 10' entryway on a pad, no easily accessible walls to run new wire, etc) do I have any feasible options? Or will I just be holding onto the welder until I get my pole barn built... in a few years.

If you don't have a 220-240 volt outlet I don't know how you are going to operate it. Of course you can temporarily wire up a receptacle from the load center (breaker box) to test the machine. And I would recommend testing upon arrival. Then put it away until you get your power source. It will run fine off of a 30 amp dryer plug. Do you have an electric clothes dryer nearby?
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #90  
If you don't have a 220-240 volt outlet I don't know how you are going to operate it. Of course you can temporarily wire up a receptacle from the load center (breaker box) to test the machine. And I would recommend testing upon arrival. Then put it away until you get your power source. It will run fine off of a 30 amp dryer plug. Do you have an electric clothes dryer nearby?

How close would be "nearby"? The laundry room is probably 20ish feet to the door to the garage. Is wiring up a 30-40' 10/3(?) extension cord a possibility?

*Edit* A quick search on Amazon pulled up 50' welder extension cords for $100-$170... so I guess the answer is yes. Now to just figure out if I want to turn my $200 investment into a $300-$400 or wait...
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #91  
How close would be "nearby"? The laundry room is probably 20ish feet to the door to the garage. Is wiring up a 30-40' 10/3(?) extension cord a possibility?

it sure is.. You can get some SO cord at Lowes or HD and wire up the cord you will need and roll it back up when done. S O cord is very flexible with a tough black jacket that will stand being rolled up thousands of times. Think large flexible extension cord. It is not really cheap, but probably a lot cheaper than an electrician.
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #92  
I got some 10-4 So at HD, they didn't have 10-3, and wired to dryer plug for now. It will actually end up at the other house right near the electrical panel. I think it was Under $2 per foot for the wire, another $15 for each plug.
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #93  
it sure is.. You can get some SO cord at Lowes or HD and wire up the cord you will need and roll it back up when done. S O cord is very flexible with a tough black jacket that will stand being rolled up thousands of times. Think large flexible extension cord. It is not really cheap, but probably a lot cheaper than an electrician.

OK, yeah. So 6/4 SOOW wire at HD runs about $5.50/ft (or 100' of 6/3 for $285) and 6/3 on ebay for 3.24/ft, so I'm looking at about a $200 extension cord when it's said and done. Something to ponder. Not having any prior welding experience, this was supposed to be my "cheap" introductory. Now I have something to chew on.
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #94  
I got some 10-4 So at HD, they didn't have 10-3, and wired to dryer plug for now. It will actually end up at the other house right near the electrical panel. I think it was Under $2 per foot for the wire, another $15 for each plug.

Prichard, from this chart:
American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies and wire breaking strength
is says for the power draw on the 160 (26A) you should be using 6 gauge wire. Am I missing something?
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #95  
That's silly to think of buying 6 ga SO for that machine 10 ga is more than enough, that chart is considering a constant draw think electric motor running a conveyor or something. We have over 15 machines at work most spend all day running .045 dualshield and not a single one has 6 ga SO on it.
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #96  
Prichard, from this chart:
American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies and wire breaking strength
is says for the power draw on the 160 (26A) you should be using 6 gauge wire. Am I missing something?

I used #10 SO cord for mine. It is 30 foot long. #8 is the biggest I would use for up to a 50 footer. I can't see needing #6. I wired the 50 amp outlet with #6 in the wall because I didn't know what machine I would put on it in the future that might need the full 50 amps of the receptacle. But This little welder will not pull no 50 amps. The 26 amp number you quoted is more accurate, and #10 is good for 30 amps in an open air intermittent service like this for reasonable distances. Use #8 if you are worried. My #10 has never even gotten warm to the touch in use.
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #97  
Per UL #10 cord is rated 25 or 30 amps. UL General-Use Circuit Ampacity Reference Chart

I don't expect to be running the welder at 100% and even if I did there is duty cycle to consider. So, I'm OK with this but you have to pick your own level of safety/risk. I could log in to NFPA and see what NEC has to say about it but like I said I'm comfortable doing it this way.
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #98  
Your probably not even running 20 amps on the supply side burning a 7018 at 125 amps. I felt very safe with my #10 SO cord extension cord. and my practice has borne that out.
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #99  
No, thank you everyone. I know enough about electrical to be dangerous (not necessarily in the bad way), so I tend to compensate when I don't know for 100%. Better safe then sorry right? I'll pick up some 10/3 and have at it. Thanks again everyone, I don't feel quite as bad now.
 
/ Some NOS PowerArc 160's #100  
I feel obligated to mention that if I was permanently wiring a 50A receptacle in my home I would follow NEC to the letter. Even though I may not use 50A for this welder a 50A load could be connected to that receptacle. BTW, wire is sized according to the breaker which is sized according to the load.

Cords and temp wiring are another matter.
 

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