Sputtering BX

[George the Beagle]

BX 1860 occasionally sputters and dies. I changed both fuel filters last fall and still had problems over the winter. Hoping that I had water in the fuel, I change both filters again. When changing the one underneath the tractor, I figured I'd drain off a quart or so from the tank (after letting it sit 24 hours so the water would settle to the bottom). When I disconnected the filter, I took off the vise grips and....no fuel flow at all! I blew a little air back up through the line which then started a healthy flow of fuel. So, I'd say there is some crud in the tank. Which means.............uh oh........the tank has to come off?? I hope not. Unless, of course, someone has a better idea......!!!!!

 

[Egon]

Drain the tank and have a look to see what's in it. Then make some plans.

 

[Scooby074]

There was some issues with the fuel float and other metal items in the tank corroding IIRC. That means pulling the tank and replacement if you want a permanent fix.

Personally Id upgrade the filter to a Racor and monitor the bowl. If you get a repeat, open up the tank and see whats up. If you have access to a borescope (surprisingly cheap now) you might be able to see something without disassembly when the tank is empty.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I think you can see the fuel outlet down thru the filler neck on a BX. Once you get the tank empty have a look ... might be tenuous crud you can push/flush thru the port.

 

[mikesee]

I had the same problem with my BX2660, intermittent sputtering, no fuel flow from the tank to the first filter. Would blow air into the tank and it would be fine for a while then start sputtering again. Took it to dealership for fuel tank removal and cleaning plus new float mechanism. 8 hours labor to complete the task so you can figure how much it cost. Dealer said there were 'leafs' in the tank.

 

[lakeside]

I'd try draining most of the fuel out and then use a hand held suction pump with a long tube to suck up what's left which should also clean up any crud. If taking the tank off is a real hassle, there are also oil suction pumps made to suck oil from sumps such as boats engines. You might want to see how much they cost versus the cost and trouble of taking the tank off. In my area, they were selling for around $100.

Since diesel is not all that flammable you could try and use a shop vac to really suck up the fuel. Even though diesel isn't really flammable, the vapors may be flammable though.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I would second the idea of using the shop vac to suck out the tank. IF you are concerned about flammability of the diesel, you could use a 5 gallon bucket like hydraulic oil comes in. cut a hole in the top that is same size as tip of your shop vac suction hose (it is tapered) then shove the hose in to make a tight seal. You could then use another suction hose or a piece of water hose to put into the opposite side of the lid and seal it good, then use that to suck out the fuel and any debris that is in it. Much cheaper and easier than removing the tank.

 

[Egon]

I'd try an air educator for cleaning the tank.

 

[DT86]

I would second the idea of using the shop vac to suck out the tank.

Yes, works well.

First saw it done at a dealers shop and have done it since myself.

 

[JWR]

Some have reported a stray fuel can lid having fallen into the tank. All sorts of obstruction possibilities of course. I know of one BX2200 where the tank was removed, steam cleaned and put back plus all the filters changed. There can even be biological growth in the things. Some of the clean-out additives cover bio agents in the fine print.

 

[5030]

I'd check the fuel cap first to make sure it's venting properly or the vent hose to make sure it's not plugged. Much cheaper to look at the basic stuff first.

 

[Leejohn]

Read this thread http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/oil-fuel-lubricants/337953-bad-fuel.html?highlight=

 

[Scooby074]

Yes there is a chance for Alge too.

My tractor lives outside, so Im more susceptible, but I did have some alge growth in my filter bowl last year. Since then Ive been using a product called BioBor Jf that is a biocide. No problems with alge since Biobor Jf Fuel Additives - Products

 

[ultrarunner]

My BX had an intermittent problem and it turned out to be a pin hole in the rubber fuel line... somehow a twig got in there and the thorn punctured the line.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Maybe you should also check your operator presence safety switch. My B26 just started cutting out and after checking the switch, I found that the plastic seat underbody was all cracked up. Too much bouncing around. I remembered putting some JBWeld on it a year or so back to fix some cracks around the safety switch, now in addition to that failing again, the area where the seat is bolted to the seat frame is cracking. I guess it is about time for a new seat on my 2009 model TLB.

 

[George the Beagle]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have a friend who's a very good mechanic, and he suggested I let him remove the fuel tank and clean it out at substantially less cost than the dealer would charge (he also has a BX), so that's the route I've decided to take. Will post the results.

 

[JWR]

Removing those fuel tanks is a big job with a bunch of sheet metal to get out of the way, etc. We had one done down in Louisiana and the dealer took several hours to do it. If he does remove it, be sure to check the pressure relief valve in the tank while you have it off. Many owners of the BX series (many models, ours was a BX2200) have a condition where the tank leaks if it is filled more than about 2/3. I've seen posts saying that was due to a stuck or defective relief valve. Of course some serious cleaning of the tank is in order (steam clean if you can.) Then getting it REALLY dry is another issue. Good luck.

 

[George the Beagle]

UPDATE: The tank was removed, drained, and cleaned. Inside was a small amount of sediment, a little twig, and two bugs. I use a siphon to fuel the tractor and I'm thinking the bugs crawled into the siphon between uses. The twig, I dunno. There was absolutely no water, resulting in a clean-looking sending unit. At any rate, the job is done at a cost of $270. A few pics:

 

[JWR]

I'd bet you are right about the source of the 2 bugs. What a job ! So does everything work OK now I assume ?

 

[George the Beagle]

I'd bet you are right about the source of the 2 bugs. What a job ! So does everything work OK now I assume ?

Yep, I had it out today for a couple of hours and it never skipped a beat.