The tornado threat is also significant for Wednesday in eastern North Carolina and southeast Virginia.
Well looks like I'm taking my flags down tomorrow and for sure the patio umbrella.
The national radar is pretty intense right now.
Ok RS, so you mean the additives breaks down the water into tiny molecules and spread them throughout the fuel so they can be
safely burned? No fuel value in water so has to hurt performance if there's much of it. Nasty on most injectors...
And what you are saying is those tiny molecules would go right through the water block filter because they are too small, like microns?
I usually use Power Service or Pri-D. Now if I connect the dots right here I can use the additives properly if I employ only a sediment filter, but if
I use a water blocking filter, I guess I'm wondering what the downside to that is? For sure Goldenrod would love to sell me the four or five dollar more expensive water filter. RS, if you pay more for it, you know it must be better, right?
I'll let that percolate a bit...
I'm basing this all on an ***-umption that a water filter is a sediment filter plus water blocking. Not just a single purpose filter.
However I've often seen these filters in pairs and I bet one is a sediment filter and one a water block, which of course makes me wonder if my
original assumption that the more expensive filter did everything was clearly wrong.
Unless i got a bad load of fuel, with a new tank filled to within ten gallons of capacity, there's not much exposed wall area to create condensation.
So I don't think water will be an issue for awhile.
My instinct is to wait on any additives. The oil company is one of the largest around and moves the product so I feel confident what I got was reasonably fresh.
Too bad there's not some way to dip the fuel and have it tell you how old it is. Perhaps a cetane test strip.
I do know there are some strips that test for water. Those might be handy though
hopefully not a "congratulations you have already wrecked your engine" indicator
But I am paying attention and I ordered only a sediment spare. If I'm going to make this diesel fuel last two years, with perhaps half fresh added in a year, I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to use some diesel additives. Pretty sure, not positive. Don has me wondering now but my reality is a two year supply.
I would normally use a biocide like Biobor and then a cetane booster with injector lubricant in it. And before next winter, maybe a dose of magic juice with
antigel in it. This is what worked for me for many years with boat diesels and cold weather. Hmmm. I just thought of something. Is it safe to assume what got put in my tank was ultra low sulphur diesel? Is that mandatory?
