Buying Advice Early '60's MF 35 Utility

[shaeff]

I'm sure it will be, thanks! I'll be sure to post pics, and I'm also sure I'll have other questions.

 

[Kenneth S]

$140.00 to have it hauled, that's a deal.

 

[shaeff]

That's what I thought, kind of a no brainer, eh?

I'll get some pics up probably Saturday if all goes according to plan! In the meantime, i'll leave you with these three from the seller:

 

[Jerry/MT]

I'm sure it will be, thanks! I'll be sure to post pics, and I'm also sure I'll have other questions.

Get back here if you need help getting it running. Another good site is Yesterday'sTractors.com

 

[TomSeller]

$140.00 to have it hauled, that's a deal.

It sure is. Renting a trailer alone costs a good $100 if you have it all day.

 

[shaeff]

I'll post my progress as I get into it, we have a trailer capable of hauling the tractor, just no way to get it on without it running.

That brings me to my next question- how to raise the loader arms without the tractor running? Can I simply jack it up? Or do I need to crack a few hydraulic lines loose to relieve pressure? I'm going to chain it to the front grille guard so the wrecker can pull it up.

 

[Kenneth S]

If you crack open the hydraulic lines on the lift cylinders you should be able to raise the loader arms. You may want to wrap some old rags on the lines after you crack them open, and use some kind of pans to keep the oil from going everywhere (maybe a little sand, or oil adsorbent, and a broom). If you can find what lever is used to raise the loader, hold the lever in the right position just use it rather than opening the lines. You maybe able to just crank the engine over, and use the control to raise it if it can spin it over enough, then chain it to keep it up (make sure to figure out now to chain it up first).

 

[shaeff]

I'll try cranking the motor and holding the lever first. If that doesn't work, I'll put a bit of pressure on it with a jack and see if I can engage one of the levers to see if if allows the arms to move. If not, then I'll resort to cracking loose the hyd. lines.

Thanks!

 

[shaeff]

Well, I've got it home, flatbed bad no problem getting it out. All tires roll just fine, brakes seem to work ok, still haven't tried to start it, no time.

Used a small kubota the previous owner has to lift and chain the bucket up, worked great.

When I have time tomorrow I'll post better pics. One quick question, there are two levers going on the hi/lo shifter hole, what's the second (right side) one for?

 

[Kenneth S]

That is for the shuttle shift, it has a forward, neutral, reverse. So if you have a 6 speed transmission (3 speed, and low/high range) it gives you 6 forward, and 6 reverse speeds.

 

[shaeff]

Excellent, here are a few more pics. Now that it's at my parent's (until I get it running) it's a bit easier to inspect. The loader is a Massey Model 99. It's got a very narrow bucket, so it won't be very good for moving snow, but I'll change that out eventually. I'll make it work for this winter.

Let me know if there are any other/close up pics that you want to see. There really doesn't seem to be very much information on the Utility 35 that I can find. I guess it's more of a MF35 painted yellow, a bit more industrial/heavier duty? The front axle on mine is pretty beefy compared to some of the regular MF35 pictures I've seen online. I did, however, find this cool old ad regarding the Utility model, as seen below.

Edit: I can't seem to get the information on serial numbers on tractordata.com ( TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 35 tractor information ) to jive with mine. Weird. My guess is that it's a 1964, but I only suspect such because of other information I've come across online, none of which has to do with data tags.

Another question- are these tractors positive or negative ground? I've read both, and with as little info as I can find out mine I'd like to be sure before I try jump starting it/hooking a battery up. There are no battery cables on mine, the ground has been removed (though I think I see where it goes) and the positive has been cut at the starter.


Edit again to add more information. I've found that the first three digits of my serial number- UGM =
U utility
G gas (6:1)
M dual clutch

 

[Garycw]

Looks like a fun project and it'll be a real worker

 

[Kenneth S]

The serial numbers on some of the MF utility, industrial, and turf tractors are about impossible to use to find out what year model they are. When looking up parts for your 35 utility pay close attention to what serial numbers they are for (some parts are for before, and for after certain serial numbers). I have a serial number to year model list for some of the MF "yellow" tractors, I don't have any serial number to year model numbers for the 35 utility.

 

[shaeff]

Looks like a fun project and it'll be a real worker

Thanks, and I sure hope so!

The serial numbers on some of the MF utility, industrial, and turf tractors are about impossible to use to find out what year model they are. When looking up parts for your 35 utility pay close attention to what serial numbers they are for (some parts are for before, and for after certain serial numbers). I have a serial number to year model list for some of the MF "yellow" tractors, I don't have any serial number to year model numbers for the 35 utility.

That's what I was beginning to find out, you just confirmed it. I've found a few other people on the web with variants of my tractor, but nobody can easily decipher the serial numbers. I'll keep digging, but in the meantime I'm guessing it's around 1964. Thanks for the heads up. I definitely don't want to be ordering incorrect parts. First on the list are new shifter boots to stop rain water ingress, getting it started, and changing all fluids.

Any comment on positive vs negative ground? (both battery cables are long gone)

 

[Kenneth S]

Your MF 35 utility is pretty much the same as a regular MF 35 with some small differences (like the shuttle shift). Some of the MF "yellow" tractors may not have a three point hookup, a pto output shaft (but you can put a three point, or pto on them), or like both of mine that don't have drawbars (but has the bolts holes to mount one). When looking for parts for your 35 utility tractor you will find that most parts will also fit the MF 35 farm tractor. Yours should also be negative ground.

 

[shaeff]

Gotcha. I'm lucky in that I've got the three point hitch and PTO, but it's nice to know that servicing them won't be difficult, judging by the fact that you say it's easy to add them. It would be nice if it were that easy to add a differential lock, as my machine lacks that feature. I also may need at least one new wheel loop on the back left, it's pretty rotted. I see pairs of them on eBay for about $300 or so, however I'd like to just find one locally if possible. I'm not so sure I trust that wheel to hold air, and again not so sure if welding it is the best possibility. I guess I'll find out on Saturday.

Unfortunately I won't likely have the chance to work on it at all this week until Saturday, when I'll have all day.

Thanks Kenneth, you're a huge help!

Edit: aha! As user Central Vermonter indicates here:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...91-massey-ferguson-35-industrial-mystery.html

Okay, to add some more found information....

After referencing the production and serial number tables in my Massey Legacy-volume two I found that they list a 'turf special' and '35 utility' with these serial numbers:

1962 turf (gas) 656000001-656000105
1963 turf (gas) 656000150-656000614
1964 turf (gas) 656000615-656000892

1962 utility (diesel) 655000003-655000240
1962 utility (gas) 655000001-655000236
1963 utility 655000279-655001253
1964 utility 655001254-655001754

My serial#: UGM655001649
Confirmed 1964, and there were only 94 more produced after mine!


Edit again- just so I don't keep bumping my own thread:

In this picture, posted by Ewgoetz in another thread, you see two pedals that your heel would sit on/near. Are those both brake pedals? (one for each wheel?) or is one of those a differential lock? I've got the same setup, that's why I'm wondering.

 

[Kenneth S]

The two lower pedals are the rear brakes (left side, and right side), the little pedal up high is a foot throttle. Now I can add the 35 utility and turf numbers to my" yellow" tractor folder. For a differential lock there would be pedal on the right hand side kind of underneath the controls for the three point that you would work with your right heal (I hardly ever use it). To put a differential lock in your tractor it would be easiest to find a rear end with the lock as you would need a few parts, and a bit of work to add one on.

 

[shaeff]

Ok that's what it looked like, but I'm new to all this and wanted to be sure. Thanks for clarifying! Glad those numbers helped you out too, I feel like I've given back at least a little bit now!

My property (4.5 acres) is mostly rolling type hills with really only one low spot where it stays damp after heavy rain, I suppose I'll worry about a diff lock if I get stuck frequently (or change my usage habits!) though, that won't stop me from keeping an eye out for a diff lock rear! Thanks for the pic and help, as always!

 

[Kenneth S]

If its slick going up a hill a differential lock doesn't do much good, it will go any which way but straight (I found that out many years ago).

 

[shaeff]

I assume that it's much like a powerful posi-traction car, too much skinny pedal and you're facing any which way but the way you should be.

Can working the brakes independently help getting un-stuck? (one wheel spins, slow down that wheel with the brake to make the other catch power?)