M59 Discussion Thread

/ M59 Discussion Thread #401  
The gauge wheel was handy before I broke it. It isn't built as sturdy as the rest of the backblade and both the wheel and fork it mounts to bent pretty easily going to deep into a dip and overloading it. Oops. :ashamed: The wheel can be replaced and the fork can be bent/welded for repair, but honestly once you get pretty good at using the 3pt height lever you can do just as well with out it, back up into tighter places and load onto a trailer much easier. Also zerks are covered by the bolt on portion of the gauge wheel frame. If you are doing a great big area like a parking lot it makes things easier, but on my place it is more of a hindrance.

Thanks for the info on the gauge wheel. I bought the skid shoes for my blade shortly after I got the blade, and those made a big difference, but I'd still like to try out gauge wheel for more of a "leveling" effect when going over varied terrain.

Nice grapple :thumbsup:
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #402  
Tim,
How much did those round bales weigh?
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #403  
The round bales averaged just under 1350 lbs each for the dozen on that load.

I find setting the backblade angled forward and slightly offset to one side or the other to be almost as effective as using the wheel since I usually have to make more than on pass for most work anyhow. The sharp angle cuts into and then across the uneven terrain (that my tires do not have to roll over this way) lengthwise to use the shaved highs to fill the lows in front of them kind of like a loaded box blade would. This simulates what the wheel does for you when the blade is straight across. Both work reasonably well, but one does not require messing with the wheel. The thing that helps most with the 3pt attachments is to make sure the side to side stabilizers are attached properly to the spots just inside the tires. This keeps the whole assembly from banging into the tires or hoe hooks as well as provides a smoother drag of blades.
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #404  
Which brings me to some problems I've been having. The TLB was base so there's no front or rear hydraulics. A week before I bought it I asked the dealer to see if they could source the kits but haven't had any luck. I know everythingattachments.com has a front kit, but how close is that to the factory? Does anyone know of a rear hydraulic kit?.

Wow, I've been away for a while and suddenly there are all these new M59 posts.

By rear hydraulic kit it isn't clear if you mean the rear auxiliary hydraulics or the optional hydraulic kit for the backhoe thumb, but kits should be available for both (assuming Kubota still makes them and has them in stock). When I installed the rear auxiliary hydraulics on my M59, I got the kit mail order from Coleman Equipment in Kansas, however any dealer that can get WholeGoods parts should be able to order them. The front remote valve kit is part TL2212, rear remotes are part L3995, and the remote valve kit for the backhoe thumb is BT3921. They are all pretty pricey, but very good quality in my experience.

I too am glad I got my M59 when one could still get a good diesel engine. I did the same, intentionally, when I got my truck. It is a 2007, one of the last made with the Cummins 5.9 diesel engine. Both the truck and tractor are real workhorses.
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #405  
Wow, I've been away for a while and suddenly there are all these new M59 posts.

By rear hydraulic kit it isn't clear if you mean the rear auxiliary hydraulics or the optional hydraulic kit for the backhoe thumb, but kits should be available for both (assuming Kubota still makes them and has them in stock). When I installed the rear auxiliary hydraulics on my M59, I got the kit mail order from Coleman Equipment in Kansas, however any dealer that can get WholeGoods parts should be able to order them. The front remote valve kit is part TL2212, rear remotes are part L3995, and the remote valve kit for the backhoe thumb is BT3921. They are all pretty pricey, but very good quality in my experience.

I too am glad I got my M59 when one could still get a good diesel engine. I did the same, intentionally, when I got my truck. It is a 2007, one of the last made with the Cummins 5.9 diesel engine. Both the truck and tractor are real workhorses.

TBarD,thanks for the model numbers. I was referring to the optional hydraulic kit for the backhoe thumb. Right now I'm not powering any rear implements, but there's no guarantee that won't happen in the future.

Which leads me to the next question(s). Should I go ahead and order the rear hydraulic kit too in case the kits get hard to find? Is there much use for it if you're not farming? The dealer came back with reasonable prices (compared to what I could find) for the kits, but the labor for the rear hydraulic kit, front hydraulic kit, and thumb was ~$1600. I realize it's labor intensive but with the WSM would this be something someone could do by themselves?
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #406  
TBarD,thanks for the model numbers. I was referring to the optional hydraulic kit for the backhoe thumb. Right now I'm not powering any rear implements, but there's no guarantee that won't happen in the future.

Which leads me to the next question(s). Should I go ahead and order the rear hydraulic kit too in case the kits get hard to find? Is there much use for it if you're not farming? The dealer came back with reasonable prices (compared to what I could find) for the kits, but the labor for the rear hydraulic kit, front hydraulic kit, and thumb was ~$1600. I realize it's labor intensive but with the WSM would this be something someone could do by themselves?

The rear auxiliary hydraulics are also very useful for a box blade, PTO mower, rear blade, chipper with power feed, snow blower, etc. If you think you might be needing any of those things in the future it is good to have. If that quote you got is for installing all three it may be worth it, particularly if they are giving you something off on the hardware as part of the bargain. The list price for these kits is quite pricey and it may be hard to pay less than list if they aren't making money by doing the install as well.

I installed the rear hydraulics myself and it wasn't all that hard, except for space being extremely tight since I didn't remove the right rear wheel. The install for the thumb valve is probably pretty easy since it just adds to the backhoe valve stack, although I haven't done it so I can't say for sure. On my M59 the hydraulics for the thumb were in and I just had to install the thumb, which is easy once you get the pin out. The hydraulic lines for the front aux hydraulics route under the floor and through the left loader arm. If those lines are already installed (do base tractors come that way?) then the install probably isn't hard, but if the lines have to be run and routed through the loader arm it could start to add up. All or part of the loader control stick will need to be replaced as well as this is where the control buttons for the front auxiliary hydraulics go. If you can get a good deal and it is a good shop, it is probably worthwhile to have them do it. You probably don't need the WSM as the kits come with (terse) instructions, but it is good to have the WSM in any case.
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #407  
The rear auxiliary hydraulics are also very useful for a box blade, PTO mower, rear blade, chipper with power feed, snow blower, etc. If you think you might be needing any of those things in the future it is good to have. If that quote you got is for installing all three it may be worth it, particularly if they are giving you something off on the hardware as part of the bargain. The list price for these kits is quite pricey and it may be hard to pay less than list if they aren't making money by doing the install as well.

I installed the rear hydraulics myself and it wasn't all that hard, except for space being extremely tight since I didn't remove the right rear wheel. The install for the thumb valve is probably pretty easy since it just adds to the backhoe valve stack, although I haven't done it so I can't say for sure. On my M59 the hydraulics for the thumb were in and I just had to install the thumb, which is easy once you get the pin out. The hydraulic lines for the front aux hydraulics route under the floor and through the left loader arm. If those lines are already installed (do base tractors come that way?) then the install probably isn't hard, but if the lines have to be run and routed through the loader arm it could start to add up. All or part of the loader control stick will need to be replaced as well as this is where the control buttons for the front auxiliary hydraulics go. If you can get a good deal and it is a good shop, it is probably worthwhile to have them do it. You probably don't need the WSM as the kits come with (terse) instructions, but it is good to have the WSM in any case.

It appears they're not discounting anything. I called Messicks and they quoted me the exact same prices as the dealer for the BT3921 ($1752), TL2212 ($995), and BT4599 ($2140). The dealer also put AW46 hyd oil in the quote instead of UDT2. Not sure how much I trust that.

Is there any way someone could post pictures of the install manuals for any of the hydraulic kits (BT3921 / Tl2212 / L3995)? I'm curious as to what needs to be added or replaced for each kit (i.e. does one piggyback off another or do they all plug in to the hydraulic system at separate points).
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #408  
It appears they're not discounting anything. I called Messicks and they quoted me the exact same prices as the dealer for the BT3921 ($1752), TL2212 ($995), and BT4599 ($2140). The dealer also put AW46 hyd oil in the quote instead of UDT2. Not sure how much I trust that.

Is there any way someone could post pictures of the install manuals for any of the hydraulic kits (BT3921 / Tl2212 / L3995)? I'm curious as to what needs to be added or replaced for each kit (i.e. does one piggyback off another or do they all plug in to the hydraulic system at separate points).

They plug into the hydraulic system at separate points; the service manual should have details on each subsystem. The rear auxiliary hydraulics assembly is inserted into the power beyond circuit just behind the rubber flap for the backhoe disconnects on the right rear (when done, the power beyond flow goes through the new valves and then on to where it went before, i.e., 3pt lift and backhoe). The valve for the backhoe thumb is just added on the right side of the backhoe valve stack. The front auxiliary hydraulics are controlled by an electrically actuated valve just inside the vertical loader frame on the right side, close to the main hydraulic pump. I haven't checked but I am sure it ties into the hydraulic flow at or near the main pump, probably in series with the loader. Ultimately it is all one hydraulic circuit, i.e., main pump, loader and front auxiliary, then power beyond to the rear auxilaries, 3pt and backhoe, excluding the hoe swing circuit which has its own pump, then return to the tank. But the hydraulic lines run all over the tractor. The kits should include everything required to end up with what one would have if it were installed at the factory.
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #409  
It's coming up on maintenance time for the M59. Now at 800 hours and no real problems.

So far what I've been using for engine oil has been Rotella T 15w-40 and New Holland GL-134 trans/hydraulic. The latter because of a bad experience with the SUDT.
The Rotella and NH oils I'm using were the recommendations of the dealer and I've stayed with them. But times and technology does change; I've been doing some research

For winter I always use a block heater and let it idle for awhile until the trans/hydraulic oil warms up as well. Overall the tractor sees light to medium duty work. I tend to run it around 1400 rpm.

Expecting colder weather and somewhat harder work this next year I'm considering a change to different oils.

Right now I'm leaning towards Mobil 1 synthetic oil - their latest turbo diesel synthetic with the CH/I/J ratings. Synthetics have been out for awhile now and all the reports I hear are favorable.
And for the trans/hydraulic I am thinking of switching to John Deere's Hy-Gard 303. I use it in the rest of my machines and it has always performed well. It would be nice to just stock one type in the barn.

What do you think of those choices? What do the rest of you use?
Luck beats Planning most times....
rScotty
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #410  
I'm using Rotella 15W-40 for engine oil in both the M59 and my truck, and SUDT2 for hydraulic fluid in the M59. The hydraulic pump in the M59 will rattle for a while with a cold start, but never enough that I have been worried enough to do anything about it. I have never used the tractor in really cold weather however; if I did I might want to try a synthetic engine oil. I think that Rotella also has a synthetic oil as well but I don't have any information on how it compares to Mobile 1. The main advantage of the 5W synthetic would seem to be for a cold weather start; after the engine warms up I doubt if it would make much difference. If you do try it, be sure to tell us how well it worked for you!
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #411  
I use Schaeffer's semi-synthetic blend (green colored, either straight or 50/50 with rotella) in all of my diesels including the M59 for the past 5 years. It works very well, I can feel a power increase and measurable mpg increase when using it that fades away when I don't. Royal purple was the only other oil that came close to the same wear protection on a bearing load tester I watched in person. Even diluted to 50/50 the Schaeffer's still would fill/polish the spots that would grind with everything else. I brought my own oils to compare and if I added Schaeffer's to them they got a lot better quick, which sold me on it. All bottles were sealed & new out of the box, opened by me, so I knew there was no trickery going on at that demo. Not long after that, NAPA started carrying the stuff.

For trans/hyd, I use the universal 5 gallon buckets that say Kubota compatible on top from Costco. Works great.
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #412  
OK, Mobil 1 turbo diesel in the engine yesterday and the first thing I noticed was that the specs called for 9.9 quarts with a filter change....but it actually only wanted about 9.3 quarts. I overfilled, and ended up pulling some of the extra oil out with a syringe and tiny rubber tube.....The second thing was that upon using it for a day the engine might now be just a touch quieter when cold and definitely quieter later in the day at high revs. The note is slightly different, too. I like it. Surprised that a different oil would make any audible difference.

Going to go for a trans/hydraulic change today. Undecided on which oil and how much to buy. Might even try the SUDT-2. Is that really a synthetic? A blend? Anyone know? And the manual calls for 12.2 gallons with a filter change - which I always do. But based on how much oil must remain in the backhoe and loader cylinders, I think it will require quite a bit less than 12.2 gallons....but by how much?
Anyone know or care to guess just how much less? I'd hate to end up with gallons and gallons of extra SUDT-2.
Thanks,
rScotty
 
Last edited:
/ M59 Discussion Thread #413  
For trans/hyd, I use the universal 5 gallon buckets that say Kubota compatible on top from Costco. Works great.

Is that Costco's brand on the label, or whose label?
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #414  
OK, Mobil 1 turbo diesel in the engine yesterday and the first thing I noticed was that the specs called for 9.9 quarts with a filter change....but it actually only wanted about 9.3 quarts. I overfilled, and ended up pulling some of the extra oil out with a syringe and tiny rubber tube.....The second thing was that upon using it for a day the engine might now be just a touch quieter when cold and definitely quieter later in the day at high revs. The note is slightly different, too. I like it. Surprised that a different oil would make any audible difference. Going to go for a trans/hydraulic change today. Undecided on which oil and how much to buy. Might even try the SUDT-2. Is that really a synthetic? A blend? Anyone know? And the manual calls for 12.2 gallons with a filter change - which I always do. But based on how much oil must remain in the backhoe and loader cylinders, I think it will require quite a bit less than 12.2 gallons....but by how much? Anyone know or care to guess just how much less? I'd hate to end up with gallons and gallons of extra SUDT-2. Thanks, rScotty

I did the trans fluid in my 5240 a couple months ago and the book was similar to yours, around 12 gallons (I can't remember the exact amount). I think it used a little over 10 gallons. If you bought two of the 5 gallon buckets it would get you very close and might only need another gallon or less.
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #415  
I've been using Delvac-1 by Mobil in all of my diesels for yrs. Local auto supply doesn't stock it any more, just the Mobil-1 for diesels. So I've switched, looks the same engine sounds the same. I think it's the same.

For Hydro oil I use what my local Hydraulic Shop has. Same spec's as John Deere Hy Guard Low visc. but $25.00 less for 5-gal bucket. $60 vers 85. Looks the same.

David
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #416  
I did the trans fluid in my 5240 a couple months ago and the book was similar to yours, around 12 gallons (I can't remember the exact amount). I think it used a little over 10 gallons. If you bought two of the 5 gallon buckets it would get you very close and might only need another gallon or less.

Well, mine turned out to use more. And after much wallet-searching I did go get the SUDT2. BTW, buying SUDT2 in the form of a case of quarts is almost 25% less expensive than buying it in larger containers. Easier to handle too. Unsettlingly, the oil in the quarts was very transparent and colorless where the same SUDT2 oil bought at the same time but in the form of a box of 2.5 gallon SUDT2 containers had a very slight amber hue. Not much, but enough to notice. The 2.5 gallon oil bubbled more when being poured in as well. That was more obvious than the color difference. Wonder why??

My original M59 operator's manual said the hydraulic capacity was 12.2 gallons..., so figuring there must be some oil left in the cylinders I only bought 10.5 gallons of SUDT2. That mistake marked the first of consecuative visits to my friendly Kubota dealer. After having found and drained via all three drain plugs just as the manual shows, and with the 3 new filters, the refill quantity required finally turned out to be exactly 12.2 gallons to the upper mark on the dipstick.....just as the manual said. That's measured with the dipstick fully inserted and with the loader down, bucket curled, and the backhoe in transport positon.

Hint 1: The SUDT2 is a nearly colorless clear oil, and heat-coloring the dipstick last time I did this chore sure has made it easier to tell the level.

Hint 2: Getting those filters on & off with a strap wrench is a terrible challenge. It's notat all as easy as replacing the engine oil filter. Next time we will take the time to prepare in advance by getting the proper oil filter socket for the two hydraulic filters and the proper spanner to fit the slots in the transmission filter.

And finally....is there an observable difference after going to the new - and more expensive oils?
From 15w-40 Rotella T to Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel in the engine....and New Holland Multi G 134 trans/hydo to Kubota SUDT2?
Well, honestly I can't tell any audible or operating difference so far. I changed mainly because the new oils are rated as being better for cold weather starts. Winter temps here can easily hit -20F and sometimes colder. And those are times when you really need a tractor....and a cab! @#$! Anyway, we'll know more when cold weather happens.

Other filters: I pre-filter the fuel, and don't use the bottom of the fuel container, so there has been no reason to ever change the M59 fuel filter. I did it one at 500 hourts but it looked new. And it still looks fine.
Conversely, the outer air filter quickly becomes colored black from exhaust fumes. Apparently that's because the air intake is only a couple of feet from the exhaust pipe.....making me wonder if that was intentional? Anyway, it makes interpreting the state of the outer air filter by color quite difficult.

As always, we remember that Good Luck beats Good Planning....
luck to you, rScotty
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #417  
I didn't notice any changes with the new fluid, I think the big upgrade is cold weather use because it has a lighter cold weight. I think I have changed fluid in mine a total of 4 times now. The last 2 changes with sudt2. It really is clear fluid, dificult to see on dipstick. And BTW, I don't think it matters what position you leave your loader or backhoe to check fluid level. When fluid leaves one side of a cylinder, an equal amount goes in the other side.
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #418  
I think I have changed fluid in mine a total of 4 times now. The last 2 changes with sudt2. It really is clear fluid, dificult to see on dipstick.

In the sunlight I couldn't see the fluid on the dipstick well enough to tell the level. So I took the dipstick inside, cleaned it up, and blued the end of it in the flame of the kitchen stove burner.

If you're not familiar with the technique it's easy enough to learn. Just do the bottom inch or two. Mine is now blue at the lower tip tapering to a straw color up where the high/low hash marks are. Go slow to retain as much springiness as possible. I polished it up a couple of times and re-did it until it looked right. Again, go slow. It's not necessary to fry the metal to cause a color change.

As an aside, just like the metal everywhere on the Kubota M59, even the dipstick is an excellent steel. Mine took a beautiful gunmetal blue with no surface flaking, oxidation, or wrinkling.

If heating it is a bother, I bet the dipstick end could be blued just as well with some of the cold-blueing solution that gunsmiths use.
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #419  
Do any of you M59 owners have a service manual? If so, would you be so kind as to look up the hydraulic pressure that the M59 puts out for implements? I've tried finding this online but only seem to come up with the hydraulic flow of 16gpm, but can't find the pressure anywhere, and without both numbers, it's hard to really figure anything out regarding hydraulic power available to run implements.

Also, anyone have any secret information about the M59's replacement? The M62.
 
/ M59 Discussion Thread #420  
Do any of you M59 owners have a service manual? If so, would you be so kind as to look up the hydraulic pressure that the M59 puts out for implements? I've tried finding this online but only seem to come up with the hydraulic flow of 16gpm, but can't find the pressure anywhere, and without both numbers, it's hard to really figure anything out regarding hydraulic power available to run implements.

Also, anyone have any secret information about the M59's replacement? The M62.
 

Marketplace Items

2012 JACK COUNTY TANK 130 BBL STEEL (A58214)
2012 JACK COUNTY...
KJ K0720 7'x20' Metal Gate (Deep) (A60463)
KJ K0720 7'x20'...
429970 (A61165)
429970 (A61165)
KNOW BEFORE YOU BID - DO YOUR HOMEWORK AND BE HAPPY WITH YOUR PURCHASE (A62129)
KNOW BEFORE YOU...
3PT 10' Rolling Cultivator (A60463)
3PT 10' Rolling...
2010 John Deere 568 Megawide Plus Round Hay Baler (A60462)
2010 John Deere...
 
Top