30hp Chinese Bulldozer Parts

[SOS]

My dad bought it new about 2 years ago and has about 100 hours on it. And its only the right steering clutch that when bad -- my mistake.

 

[Eagleview]

I wonder what could go wrong with a steering clutch at 100 hours ? I was talking to a chap a month ago , he had a brand new one delivered to his house . They unloaded it off the trailer , turned it around to put it in the shed and as it was turning , it spread its legs and broke the final drive housing in half . He swapped it for a used Komatsu D20 they had on the lot as he wouldn't accept another of the same brand .

 

[Bob Rooks]

.........and as it was turning , it spread its legs and broke the final drive housing in half .

Somebody did something wrong. Period. In all my years around crawlers I've never heard of that happening, except one time a 7A-D8 went head over heels into a 300' ravine. I think it's probably still there (operator jumped).

Too bad the D20's don't have TPH's and PTO's, otherwise nice little machines with powershift. But they are not without their woes too.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I wonder what could go wrong with a steering clutch at 100 hours ?

A lot, if it wasn't adjusted properly.
The foot pedal is supposed to be adjusted so that it compresses (collapses)the springs in the steering clutch before the brake is applied.
On the old Cats there were steering levers that you pulled by hand, and brake pedals that you pushed with your feet. Yuchai has combined both functions into the pedals, but nevertheless they are still dry clutches.

 

[Eagleview]

Somebody did something wrong. Period.

I'll pass along what your reply was . Period .

 

[Bob Rooks]

I'll pass along what your reply was . Period .

LOL

 

[Bob Rooks]

.......and as it was turning , it spread its legs and broke the final drive housing in half .

The reason I said somebody did something wrong is that there is no mechanical connection between the swing (track) frames and the final drives. The swing frames are securely attached to each other (and the chassis) underneath the engine with a double trunion mounting which allows for running on uneven terrain and over obstacles. The sprocket is only attached to the tracks and is not machine load bearing, only the rollers are.
The scenario you described is highly unlikely, given human error.

 

[Eagleview]

In my clouded mind , another thing he said came to me today . I remember he said it was a rubber track model . I'm wondering if the grip on the pavement he was screwing around on had anything to do with it . The dealer offered less than half of what he paid for it the day before , and he didn't want it fixed . That's why he swapped it for the Komatsu , he then advertised the Komatsu on Ebay , trying to recover some of his loss . That's how i came across him , i inquired about the Komatsu . Thinking about it now , maybe the sprocket tried to walk out of the track which would put a lot of strain on the housing .

 

[Bob Rooks]

My dozer has rubber tracks too, and I have done pirouettes on asphalt and clean concrete with no damage except leaving a little rubber behind.

Something is fishy here.

He didn't want it fixed?

He wanted to sell the Komatsu too?

Has he had much experience around crawlers?

I have walked out of a track on two occasions, but I asked for it (and got it).

Lateral tractive forces are transferred from the track to the roller, to the swing frame, to the front equalizer bar (double trunion) and rear pivot rod, to the chassis (differential, transmission, and clutch housings). Nowhere does it transfer to the final drives. The only forces taken by the final drives are the torque and horsepower required to turn the sprocket, and the tensioning forces of the track adjusters. The sprockets and idlers don't even touch the ground and are not designed to be load bearing. Just like the big iron.

Oh well......

 

[SOS]

Well gentlemen, I have a theory. My old dad has bad knees so him and another guy welded some hand steering bars on the control pedals and then adjusted the clutch or the brakes so they would work. Well in adjusting the clutch, I think they did not take into consideration the one or the other so it caused a lot of ware. In repairing the clutch, they took the makeshift hand controls off and readjusted everything.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Had we access to that information earlier, it would have saved peoples time and head-scratching. Hope all is better now.

 

[Gigity]

Hi folks. I just was given a DH326ST dozer that the right side track does not drive. I have determined that the axel is not broken and possibly the clutch was stuck or burned out. At this point I was able to free up the clutch and seems to be ok. I was given the machine dissembled down to the axle. I have no manual and have no clue what fluids should be in this machine. I filled hydro tanks with standard hydro fluid (ISO 46) and the gear box with gear oil 80-90wt. Got the machine running but don't have seat yet to try the drive train. Does anyone know where I can get any info/manual/parts for this unit. I know it is Chinese some where 2000 to 04 ish. only 100 hrs on unit.

Thanks Dan

 

[Bob Rooks]

Hi folks. I just was given a DH326ST dozer that the right side track does not drive. I have determined that the axel is not broken and possibly the clutch was stuck or burned out. At this point I was able to free up the clutch and seems to be ok. I was given the machine dissembled down to the axle. I have no manual and have no clue what fluids should be in this machine. I filled hydro tanks with standard hydro fluid (ISO 46) and the gear box with gear oil 80-90wt. Got the machine running but don't have seat yet to try the drive train. Does anyone know where I can get any info/manual/parts for this unit. I know it is Chinese some where 2000 to 04 ish. only 100 hrs on unit.

Thanks Dan

Hi Dan,

I have parts and operator's manual for your machine. PM me your email addy and I'll shoot them out to you when I get back to town.
You have the correct oils in the machine so far. ISO AW 32 hydraulic oil can also be used. I use a multi-grade hydraulic oil (ISO AW 32/46/68), it's good for all weather conditions and reduces inventory. Final drives use 85w-140 gear oil, and the engine uses 15w-40 Delo 400 / Shell Rotella, or equivalent.
Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[Gigity]

Hey Bob,
I did get all the files you sent. Thank you very much. I am about to tackle the electrical issues and was wondering if you knew if the voltage regulator is supposed to be lit up red. It is not charging the battery right now. I cant tell if the alternator is working or not yet. I haven't had a lot of time on it yet. I did get It back in the shop to start on the electrical issues. I do not have the correct ignition key assembly in it currently. I did order a new one and a new voltage gauge as well today. Seeing as 95% of the wire are all blue...Im sure that the current key I am using is not correct. The manual says that the key will start the engine turning it to the left when its warm and normally to the right when it is cold stopping on the pre heater before starting.
Do you know if the alternator should put out 13-14v? It was currently giving me 12.3v. I have not disconnected the battery and tested yet. I will hopefully do that later this week or week end.

Thanks

Dan

 

[Bob Rooks]

Hey Bob,
I did get all the files you sent. Thank you very much. I am about to tackle the electrical issues and was wondering if you knew if the voltage regulator is supposed to be lit up red. It is not charging the battery right now. I cant tell if the alternator is working or not yet. I haven't had a lot of time on it yet. I did get It back in the shop to start on the electrical issues. I do not have the correct ignition key assembly in it currently. I did order a new one and a new voltage gauge as well today. Seeing as 95% of the wire are all blue...Im sure that the current key I am using is not correct. The manual says that the key will start the engine turning it to the left when its warm and normally to the right when it is cold stopping on the pre heater before starting.
Do you know if the alternator should put out 13-14v? It was currently giving me 12.3v. I have not disconnected the battery and tested yet. I will hopefully do that later this week or week end.

Thanks

Dan

The red LED on the voltage regulator serves the same purpose as the red light on the gauge panel - it indicates there is power to the alternator field circuit. Both of these lights are on when the key switch is on, this is normal. You say you ordered a new "voltage gauge" did you mean ammeter or voltmeter? You should be reading about 14.5 + volts after starting the engine and running it up to 1,000 r/m. Make double sure all of your electrical connections are clean and dry, especially the battery and all grounds. This has been a slight issue on some Chinese machinery - bad grounds. The OEM alternators are only rated at around 14 amps, so don't expect a lot. If it turns out you need an alternator and/or voltage regulator, I have the ones I took off my machine when I upgraded to a 72 amp Delco 12Si alternator, that I would be willing to sell. They have about 50 hours on them and they were working fine when removed.

 

[Gigity]

Ah... I did not know what the led on the dash was for. it does not lite up as far as I can tell. Its pretty faded to orange now so maybe it does lite up, I will have to look closer. Yes, I ordered the amp gauge, mine is shorted and blowing fuses. I have it disconnected for now.
I am hoping that installing the correct ignition key will correct the problem and hopefully I haven't created a problem with the one I installed. My headlights don't work right now either, but have not investigated why yet. The roll cage is still in my neighbors barn buried. Hopefully I can dig it out soon. Weather here has been crappy not allowing me to operate the machine long enough to see if I need a clutch on the right side yet or not. for what little I did use it, all seems fine. I can understand how axels break, machine appears to have a lot more power than the axels can handle. I think that this machine is the perfect size for what I need. I do a lot of water line installiations and have paid landscapers to go back and grade and seed my trenches. This unit should be perfect especially with the 3pt and pto.
Thanks for the help once again. I will keep you informed as I progress.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Rarely do ammeters fail. If you are blowing fuses I would look closer into your wiring. Check the wiring schematic in the operators manual, it's really very basic.
Yes, the dozers are over powered for their weight class, imho they should weigh 1,500 lbs. more.
These machines have very poor rock guards and no track shields at all (part of the low cost I assume), so you have to be careful in making turns, slot dozing, and working in mud and wet soil. They also do not have belly pans, so you have to be extra careful when working in the woods.
As an aside, could I ask your indulgence in terminology? There is no "ignition switch", it's a key switch (no ignition system on diesel engines). This will help in conferring with diesel technicians.

 

[scorpion16]

I am working on a Guilin JLW-R2 because it steers great to the right and lazy to the left. I took the plug out on the left side clutch housing and oil came out. The right side was dry. I have the owners manual and it doesnt have any exploded views of the gear box and final drives. Does any one have any pics. Also in front of the gear box there the trans i assume. I put fluid into it and it always empty. No leaks visable . anyone experience this. Thanks

 

[Bob Rooks]

I am working on a Guilin JLW-R2 because it steers great to the right and lazy to the left. I took the plug out on the left side clutch housing and oil came out. The right side was dry. I have the owners manual and it doesnt have any exploded views of the gear box and final drives. Does any one have any pics. Also in front of the gear box there the trans i assume. I put fluid into it and it always empty. No leaks visable . anyone experience this. Thanks

You need a parts manual, there are exploded views in it.
The transmission and bevel gear case (what you are calling a "gear box") have a common sump. It takes quite a bit of 80w-90 gear oil.
Thought you said "no leaks"? Your left steering clutch compartment is leaking gear oil. It's either coming from the transmission / bevel gear case or the final drive. The final drive should have 85w-140 gear oil in it.
If you have saturated the brake lining with oil, the brake band will have to be relined or replaced, and that is an involved job for the novice.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I am working on a Guilin JLW-R2 because it steers great to the right and lazy to the left.

Do you own this tractor?
Might be interested in this thread: steering clutch on Guilin Jlw-d2 | Bulldozer & Excavator Operation and Maintenance | Chinese Tractor Owners Association