Rat Disaster. Need Electrical Help.

[TnAndy]

A small butane fired pencil soldering tool has served me well on many such repairs.

Also, something I tried recently, and it works great. I had a wiring harness on an ATV that was originally mounted too close to the exhaust, and it melted/rubbed the harness so about 1/2 dozen of the wires in the harness were rubbed clean thru to the copper.....didn't break them, but did short out to the frame.

I pulled them apart enough to where I could spray them well with Plastic Dip rubber/plastic spray (Lowe's store). Did a light coat, let it dry, hit with a couple more coats, and then taped them all back into a bundle and hit it again. Worked great !

 

[crazyal]

Usually the wire makes the decision for me when it comes to soldering. Often times copper wire will tarnish as it ages and gets exposed to the elements (even under the insulation). When you strip the wire it'll either be a nice bright copper, in which case you can solder it, or it'll be a dark brownish color and solder isn't going to make a good connection. I like butt splices but I also have an expensive Amp crimping tool designed for them. If you do a number of splices and other terminals I would do a search (Amp 59824) on ebay and pick one up. I've seen them as cheap as $50.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I have never worked on a Kubota but i'm thinking that if you have a look behind the rubber on the dash panel there will be a connector in there. Being able to remove the dash panel will give you more room to work.

I was thinking along the same lines. If an option under consideration is replacing the harness, then you'd have to remove and reinstall the harness. So remove it, and then make the decision whether it's worth the price of a new one to fix the existing one.

 

[N80]

If I can get the wires off of the back of the dash unit without destroying the rubber seal I will try soldering. As mentioned I have all the stuff except the heat shrink which isn't expensive. If I cannot get it of the back of the dash unit I will butt splice with heat shrink. Unfortunately I do not have the dash unit here at home. Would anyone hazard a guess, based on the pictures I posted or past experience, what size these wires are?

 

[/pine]

They should be the instrument cluster and indicator light wires...On my B series there is a modular plug (part of the harness) that completely disconnects from the dash/instrument panel...

Just curious...How would you install a new harness if you went that route?

 

[N80]

Just curious...How would you install a new harness if you went that route?

Me? I'm not sure I understand your question. To replace the entire harness you'd just remove the old one and put the new one in its place. I'm assuming it comes with all the proper connectors installed at the ends. It would take a lot of careful planning and attention to how the old one was laid out to determine how to route it.

 

[Scott65]

Eh, I'm looking on a monitor that is not very clear. But I might venture to guess 18 gauge? It looks like there may be some that are a different size? It almost looks like even 3 sizes? Thats how fuzzy the picture is on my monitor. Either way, I think 18 gauge should be sufficient for gauges. If any look thicker than the rest, bump those up to 16

 

[Scott65]

On the topic of the harness assembly. I don't know about tractors. On vehicles, many models are made in sections for replacement purposes. Engine harness, dash harness, chassis harness, etc. Unplug the bulkhead connectors and all related component connectors and clips holding it in place and remove the harness. Easier said than done, its usually snaked through all the other plumbing, it doesn't just lay on top of everything.

I kinda doubt tractors would be made this way since there is much less involved. Not near as many plugs, and a much shorter length to cover. Its possibly one harness to cover the entire tractor. Or maybe just one or two whereas a full size pickup may have a half dozen or more. You would have to research your particular model, you might be getting yourself into quite a hot mess...


Edit: I said the harnesses are made in sections for replacement purposes. That is undoubtedly incorrect. NOTHING on a vehicle is made to be easily replaceable. I'm sure its made that way for quick assembly. Easier replacement is just a nice side effect

 

[/pine]

Me? I'm not sure I understand your question. To replace the entire harness you'd just remove the old one and put the new one in its place. I'm assuming it comes with all the proper connectors installed at the ends. It would take a lot of careful planning and attention to how the old one was laid out to determine how to route it.

looking at the pictures...I suspect that behind the rubber moisture boot there is a modular plug that connects all the wires to the panel... thus my question about a new harness...

 

[dan ny escarpment]

..... If brass wool is known to keep the mice out I may stuff that space with it. There is nothing in there it would interfere with......

I would avoid filling that cavity with brass wool given the presence of wires, electricity, potentially broken wires shorting, etc, due to flammible nature, see cautions here Lustersheen Brass Wool.

Thx