Rat Disaster. Need Electrical Help.

[Scott65]

I agree with pine. If your going to solder, that's actually a good way to nearly guarantee your getting a good joint if your a beginner. Use a pencil type iron. Touch the tip to your work. Next touch the solder to the tip, but only to get it to flow. Once you get a little in your joint, verify its heat and integrity by flowing the rest from another location in the joint. If the solder melts from your spool into the joint from somewhere other than touching the tip of the iron, it means you've heated the joint enough to flow solder all the way through. Now just push enough solder into it to cover all the exposed wire. Let it cool to a dull finish, then heat shrink.

Someone mentioned scotch locks. I really don't mean this rude. I know they are handy for a lot of folks. But any professional in the automotive industry will tell you to kill them all with fire! They have caused many more problems than they have solved. On trucks their most common application is the addition of a trailer plug. And it is the go-to location when one comes in with a problem. 99% of the time one of those is the culprit.

And one last thought. I don't know how sensitive these tractor gauges might be. Some auto gauges though, adding a couple of feet of wire would throw them off. Some gauges work off of resistance and are susceptible to altering their circuits. But I could be way off. The extra wire may not be any different than the splices that we are suggesting

 

[timster2]

When I was writing specifications for heavy equipment Scotch Lock connectors were specifically banned for use anywhere on the equipment by any vendor. They were a major source of electrical problems when used in damp or wet locations. Equipment sorted or used outdoors is not a place for Scotch Locks. While they may be useful for some applications under the hood of your tractor is not one of them. Heat shrink butt connectors would be a second choice behind solider and heat shrink.

Too bad you don't live closer I'd just come over and do it for you

 

[ultrarunner]

I used Scotch Locks when I did Stereo installs... never had a problem.

The telecom industry uses a variation.

Could be the application... no exposure to the elements?

 

[k0ua]

I used Scotch Locks when I did Stereo installs... never had a problem.

The telecom industry uses a variation.

Could be the application... no exposure to the elements?

Lets see... I have probably used about a million Scotchlocks. But this was in the telecom industry. and they go on 22 and 24 gauge solid wire. They are an insulation displacement technology. Of course ours were filled with a silicone grease for weatherproofing. Keep in mind though that currents in telecom service is very low, typically a few milliamps. They are extremely fast to apply using the scotchlock tool with its magazine and stripper clips that automatically feed up the next connector just as soon as you crimp the last one.

 

[timster2]

Scotchlocks have their place. I have them and have used them and even have the factory Scotchlock crimping tool. I have also earned a lot tracing down wiring problems when they were used outside in the elements. Most people do not have access to the silicone grease loaded version designed for a specific application. I have also seen them used to splice trailer brake circuits from the factory, not an application I would sign off on!

 

[ultrarunner]

Another method I've used with zero issues for apartment irrigation valves as far back as the early 80's without a single failure is to solder, wire nut and seal in liquid rubber... 30 years and still intact.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I have never worked on a Kubota but i'm thinking that if you have a look behind the rubber on the dash panel there will be a connector in there. Being able to remove the dash panel will give you more room to work.

My preference on this repair would be to solder and heat shrink and it's really not that hard. Strip the insulation off the wires for about half an inch. Twist them together. If your using a soldering iron then put it underneath the wires. Dip your soldering wire in soldering paste and use the soldering wire to push the wire lightly onto the soldering iron. The heat front he iron will melt the paste which chemically cleans the wires and then the solder can flow easily into the wires. Don't forget to slide the heat shrink over the wire first!! Good luck and have fun

 

[Scott65]

I have never worked on a Kubota but i'm thinking that if you have a look behind the rubber on the dash panel there will be a connector in there. Being able to remove the dash panel will give you more room to work.

I had the same thought. I would bet money on it actually. It wouldn't make sense for Kubota to manufacture the harness or the cluster any other way. The only issue is i recall the OP stating his concern for how brittle or degraded the rubber is. But if it could be unplugged it sure would make life easier!

I'm not there to see what your dealing with, but you said at one point that there's almost TOO much room for mice to play. As long as you confirm everything is working after your fix, I suppose a fella could squeeze a hose somewhere back there and pump it full of great stuff. That expanding foam you use around windows and doors. I've used it to fill big voids many times in the past. Works quite well as long as it has boundaries all around to keep it contained, otherwise it tends to drool everywhere till it dries. I don't think living creatures have any desire to mess with it. Way better than the smell of moth balls

 

[almaryholm]

Mice !!!! Did in wiring for headlights a couple years ago by chewing wire insulation under dash, grounding them out and blowing a fuse. My tractor is under Shelter Logic round top (so not outdoors) and I keep hood open/ FRESH CAB packet tied to wire under hood/ packet stuffed under dash and sticky traps on station floor near pedals ...(big snake would help but they move kinda slow in MN during winter)

 

[Mike from MI]

You guys are great. To answer a few questions: It looks difficult to get the dash end of the harness out of the dash unit. There is a rubber seal that feels like it will come apart if I pull on it too much. Possibly with some TLC I could get all that loose and it would make it much easier to solder etc. As far as the crimp tool, I have one like the black one in the picture; actually nicer than that. As far as butt connectors, I used a different type on our RC race trucks but a lot of guys used the heat shrink wrapped ones in their trucks. They held and believe me those trucks took a beating. I honestly wish I could solder better and if so I'd definitely go that route but given my lack of skills I think I'll go with the butt connectors. Yes, they will take up more space but there is plenty of space behind the dash. Too much really.......that's why the mouse was in there. I will stagger them. If brass wool is known to keep the mice out I may stuff that space with it. There is nothing in there it would interfere with. And while I want this to be a permanent fix, as mentioned, it is just a few gauges and lights. If it all went wrong the tractor still operates normally. It is going to be a few weeks before I can do the work and since the hood and all the body work are off I'm going to go ahead and change the oil, oil filter, fuel filter and both air filters at the same time. Make a day of it! I'll up date everyone once I'm done........or mess it up even worse!

You have to buy wire so just practice soldering, you'll be surprised how fast you'll get the hang of it. Clean and tin tip then tin wires use gator clips if you need a third hand. Or get one of your RC buddy's to help you out.