Hydraulic Top Link Drawbacks

[texasjohn]

I really hope you don't go...your opinions and knowledge are valued.

I can see where laving check valves can help in some cases such as mowing. I would also add that the jobs that require floating the top link are few and far between.

Buy whatever makes you happy. If I offended anyone I am sorry but I call it as I see it. I am signing off TBN for good. Over the years I just see too many armchair debates and recognize that I have personally spent too much of my time here without enough return on the time spent. I fully acknowledge how little difference it makes whether I am here or not. You guys have fun with it, life goes on.

 

[davethegundoctor]

I have had these for well over 20 years. No problem. A Hydraulic top link team up with a Quick Hitch - Heaven!!

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I don't have a hydraulic toplink or sidelink (yet!). But for those of you who have leak down issues, but like to set it and forget it for a particular task, you might want to pick up a pack or two of these stroke control discs (what we called "donuts" back on the farm):

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/stroke-control-with-finger-tab-1-1-8-in-to-1-1-2-in

You set your toplink or sidelink where you want it for a particular task, and then put some of these around the cylinder shaft so that the full amount of the exposed shaft is covered. Then when it leaks down, you can just close the cylinder as much as it will close, and these allow you to return the cylinder to exactly the same position every time.

If you're constantly changing the toplink or sidelink, these won't do you any good. But they work great to be able to return a cylinder to a repeatable point any time you want.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Edit to delete duplicate post.

 

[boggen]

I don't have a hydraulic toplink or sidelink (yet!). But for those of you who have leak down issues, but like to set it and forget it for a particular task, you might want to pick up a pack or two of these stroke control discs (what we called "donuts" back on the farm):

SpeeCo Stroke Control, 1-1/8 in. to 1-1/2 in. - Tractor Supply Co.

You set your toplink or sidelink where you want it for a particular task, and then put some of these around the cylinder shaft so that the full amount of the exposed shaft is covered. Then when it leaks down, you can just close the cylinder as much as it will close, and these allow you to return the cylinder to exactly the same position every time.

If you're constantly changing the toplink or sidelink, these won't do you any good. But they work great to be able to return a cylinder to a repeatable point any time you want.

first time ever seeing something like this, had to google it some. it is interesting! 2 metal pieces shape of a C, with a metal band to hold them together. as piston retracts, they hit the metal and stops it. from contracting any further.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

first time ever seeing something like this, had to google it some. it is interesting! 2 metal pieces shape of a C, with a metal band to hold them together. as piston retracts, they hit the metal and stops it. from contracting any further.

We used them all the time back on the farm. Most of our chisel plows, disc harrows, rotary cutters, etc. were pull-type and used hydraulic cylinders that raised and lowered a rockshaft that controlled the height of the gauge wheels. We would set the height/depth we wanted and then use a combination of these "donuts" on the hydraulic cylinder.

 

[Xfaxman]

first time ever seeing something like this, had to google it some. it is interesting! 2 metal pieces shape of a C, with a metal band to hold them together. as piston retracts, they hit the metal and stops it. from contracting any further.

I made mine from thick wall tubing, slit on the bandsaw.


On the Gorrilla Grapple


Works good like stroke stoppers should.:thumbsup:

 

[npalen]

Using a simple manual ball shutoff valve on the TNT cylinders is a way to provide positive holding when needed but still allow float if desired. Another item that I find very useful is a remote position indicator showing the tilt cylinder position. This lets me see, at a glance, whether I'm running level or at a preset tilt angle. When running a back blade, for example, it lets me tilt slightly to gather more dirt on one side and then bring back to level to feather the dirt out all on the go.

 

[Rocky Hoffler]

Make sure ball valve is not brass and is rated for pressure that is applied sounds like it's cheaper than P.O. checks

 

[Threepoint]

Using a simple manual ball shutoff valve on the TNT cylinders is a way to provide positive holding when needed but still allow float if desired. Another item that I find very useful is a remote position indicator showing the tilt cylinder position. This lets me see, at a glance, whether I'm running level or at a preset tilt angle. When running a back blade, for example, it lets me tilt slightly to gather more dirt on one side and then bring back to level to feather the dirt out all on the go.

Npalen, hadn't thought of using a manual shutoff valve in that way. Any drawbacks to it, other than the fact that you've got to remember to open and close it?

What kind of position indicator are you using for your tilt angle? Great idea, could you maybe post a pic?

 

[boggen]

Using a simple manual ball shutoff valve on the TNT cylinders is a way to provide positive holding when needed but still allow float if desired. Another item that I find very useful is a remote position indicator showing the tilt cylinder position. This lets me see, at a glance, whether I'm running level or at a preset tilt angle. When running a back blade, for example, it lets me tilt slightly to gather more dirt on one side and then bring back to level to feather the dirt out all on the go.

manual shut off valve, now that is to easy! open it just a tad to slow things down. (acting like an orifice) to help make those fine tuning adjustments easier. open it up all the way for float like option through regular valve, and then shut it off for hold position. as long as the valve is rated for the PSI. ((normal stores menards, lowes, home depot, ace hardware,etc... do not normally sell valves rated for PSI that our tractors use, and will more likely exploded and fail quickly if they are used...needing to find a source online most likely to order a manual valve))

 

[bumperm]

Using a simple manual ball shutoff valve on the TNT cylinders is a way to provide positive holding when needed but still allow float if desired. Another item that I find very useful is a remote position indicator showing the tilt cylinder position. This lets me see, at a glance, whether I'm running level or at a preset tilt angle. When running a back blade, for example, it lets me tilt slightly to gather more dirt on one side and then bring back to level to feather the dirt out all on the go.

I don't understand how a simple on/off valve would get a cylinder to float?

Since the cylinder (piston) end has more displacement than the rod end (due to the volume of the rod itself), simply bypassing the two ports with a mechanical valve wouldn't allow float unless there was air in the system. I'd think you'd have hydraulic lock even with the bypass valve open unless the excess or dirth of fluid is ported to the tank.

bumper

 

[npalen]

I don't understand how a simple on/off valve would get a cylinder to float?

Since the cylinder (piston) end has more displacement than the rod end (due to the volume of the rod itself), simply bypassing the two ports with a mechanical valve wouldn't allow float unless there was air in the system. I'd think you'd have hydraulic lock even with the bypass valve open unless the excess or dirth of fluid is ported to the tank.

bumper

Yes, I failed to mention that a float spool valve is needed.

 

[boggen]

below valve with float option
1 SPOOL SV VALVE OPEN CENTER W/POWER BEYOND

then plumbing 1 of these in between above valve, and the hyd cylinder, assuming cylinder end the ball valve would be placed.
Surplus Center

at least that is what i am assuming?

 

[npalen]

Npalen, hadn't thought of using a manual shutoff valve in that way. Any drawbacks to it, other than the fact that you've got to remember to open and close it?

What kind of position indicator are you using for your tilt angle? Great idea, could you maybe post a pic?

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...l-indicator-tilt-cylinder-tnt.html?highlight=

This is a thread that shows some pics of the position indicator.

SAE 6 CARBON STEEL BALL VALVE 72-902
A typical ball type valve.

 

[theSeb]

I have been thinking about getting myself one of these, since it would be so useful to make adjustments on the go, but I don't have a button on the fender for the hydraulics, so I cannot see how I would be able to actually hitch something up without jumping in and out of the tractor and swearing a lot.

 

[Fallon]

I have been thinking about getting myself one of these, since it would be so useful to make adjustments on the go, but I don't have a button on the fender for the hydraulics, so I cannot see how I would be able to actually hitch something up without jumping in and out of the tractor and swearing a lot.

Get a quick hitch... I can hitch up to pretty much all my gear without getting out of my seat no matter how crooked or un-level it's sitting. Granted I still have to get off to hook up a PTO or additional hydraulics & flip the flotating toplink into the hook for the rotary cutter. But for 80% of the pain a quick hitch & TnT makes it go away.

You may need to modify some of your gear to conform to the standard dimensions & be quick hitch compatible, but it's worth it.

 

[theSeb]

Get a quick hitch... I can hitch up to pretty much all my gear without getting out of my seat no matter how crooked or un-level it's sitting. Granted I still have to get off to hook up a PTO or additional hydraulics & flip the flotating toplink into the hook for the rotary cutter. But for 80% of the pain a quick hitch & TnT makes it go away.

You may need to modify some of your gear to conform to the standard dimensions & be quick hitch compatible, but it's worth it.

Yup, that's the only way I had imagined to make a hydraulic top link work. I am on the other side of the pond (England) and I have found a similar system from Austria, which is more pricey, but this stuff even works for the PTO and hydraulics (no need to get out of the cab with the top of the range mode). I have been oohing and aahing over it, but the time saving will pay for itself pretty quickly.

Movies | Gangl Docking Systems

 

[Fallon]

Yup, that's the only way I had imagined to make a hydraulic top link work. I am on the other side of the pond (England) and I have found a similar system from Austria, which is more pricey, but this stuff even works for the PTO and hydraulics (no need to get out of the cab with the top of the range mode). I have been oohing and aahing over it, but the time saving will pay for itself pretty quickly.

Movies | Gangl Docking Systems

John Deere has the autohitch option for iMatch (their term/brand for their implementation of the generic quick hitch standard). It only does the PTO, not hydraulics & I hear there aren't many compatible implements around at all. It's a $700 upgrade to the iMatch quick hitch I think + requiring modifications to the implements. For some reason it's not very popular...

 

[Xfaxman]

I have been thinking about getting myself one of these, since it would be so useful to make adjustments on the go, but I don't have a button on the fender for the hydraulics, so I cannot see how I would be able to actually hitch something up without jumping in and out of the tractor and swearing a lot.

Rig up a out back lever connected to the lever that the top link is plugged into.

Like this: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/312961-attaching-removing-3-point-implements.html?highlight=#post3827550

Somebody did one on a cab, but I could not find it.