120V MIG welders.

[Mark @ Everlast]

The duty cycle of 35% at 140 amps seems wildly better than my 135 Handler. I think it's only good for 70 amps at 35%.

This is true. It's probably only 20%@90 Amps. The 140 amps they advertise is a theoretical amperage as it can "spike" there, but consider yourself as owning a 90 amp welder. The duty cycle at the 140 amps would be less than 5%, or probably about 15-20 seconds out of 10 minutes IF it could make it there. There is a difference I believe.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Japanese Politician apologizing for offering up a bill to outlaw 120V MIG welding machines.

http://youtu.be/e6SxYPNwQUo

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

If there was any doubt about limitations, the more limited 100V the Japanese use would surely erase it.

 

[Sodo]

If there was any doubt about limitations, the more limited 100V the Japanese use would surely erase it.

I think you have to know the amperage of the 100v circuit to make that assumption. There will be more losses in the wire, but a 100v@24A supply can produce the same welding power as 120v@20A (------> right?).

 

[paulharvey]

I think you have to know the amperage of the 100v circuit to make that assumption. There will be more losses in the wire, but a 100v@24A supply can produce the same welding power as 120v@20A (------> right?).

Unless I'm totally off base, total potential energy is volts x amps.

Nvm; I see what your saying.

 

[Dan Hunter]

Dan, I'm curious if your 135 Handler has ever shut down mid-weld?

No but it might have something to do with my miserable "shop" conditions and my lousy skill set...neither of which has prevented me from having a bunch of fun.

For example, attached is what's left of a 1968 Honda CT 90 frame with a 2002 XR100R fork assembly among other mods. If you know these bikes, the steering head is far from stock having had the overall length of the head shortened along with the fork lock and other bits removed, the swingarm relocated and a bunch of mounting holes filled...all with my 110 volt unit.

 

[Sodo]

This is true. It's probably only 20%@90 Amps. The 140 amps they advertise is a theoretical amperage as it can "spike" there, but consider yourself as owning a 90 amp welder. The duty cycle at the 140 amps would be less than 5%, or probably about 15-20 seconds out of 10 minutes IF it could make it there. There is a difference I believe.

Mark if this is a problem I have not come across it on my Hobart or Miller and I've made lots and lots of stuff over the years.

No but it might have something to do with my miserable "shop" conditions and my lousy skill set...neither of which has prevented me from having a bunch of fun.

Thats the way I like it. Careful letting out whats fun that's the next thing there will be a big running internet thread about banning it.

I have never had my welder(s) shut down. And by the way what if it did shut down (once?). And lets say you were NOT in the middle of a critical weld on a gas pipe with your 115v welder ( surely a common scenario for lots of TBN members ) ?

My welders are 20% duty cycle and I've never had any shut down in 20 years. My conclusion from my experience is that 20% is a good solid duty cycle for a hobby/maintenance welder.

 

[paulharvey]

As the still owner, and ex-user of a 120 volt Arc welder I can tell you it would shut down after about a rod and a half of 3/32" 6011; that is until the duty cycle switch burnt up. After that you had to know to stop welding when you smell the wire insulation burning. BUT, it did do what I needed. Now, I use a cheap off brand 130 amp 240v, and it strikes an arc soo much easier.

 

[Sodo]

120 volt Arc welder I can tell you it would shut down after about a rod and a half of 3/32" 6011

I didn't even know 120v arc welders existed.

 

[paulharvey]

Yep. Mine is/was a Campbell Hausfeld, 70 amp 120v. There are several brands including Chicago Electric (Harbor Freight), Northstar (Northern Tooll), and a bunch of eBay sellers. The HF, and mine are low (50 amp) and high (70 amp) toggle switch for adjusting. No fan.

This 120v conversation has been going on a long time; I've got an old thread showing a middle buster plow I build with mine. Don't know how to link too it, but I'll "bump" it if you are interested.

 

[KubotainNH]

I didn't even know 120v arc welders existed.

I've got a 120v stick welder, you want it? It is awful. It is missing parts now.

 

[roadhunter]

I didn't even know 120v arc welders existed.

Oh yea. I've got a little maxstar 150 that will burn 3/32 rod plugged into 120. I used to have a little thermal arc dragster 85 that was lots of fun with 1/16" rod.

 

[Shield Arc]

As the still owner, and ex-user of a 120 volt Arc welder I can tell you it would shut down after about a rod and a half of 3/32" 6011; that is until the duty cycle switch burnt up. After that you had to know to stop welding when you smell the wire insulation burning. BUT, it did do what I needed.

That is so strange:confused3:! Something must have been wrong with it from the factory. I have one, used it to weld this bridge together. Ran 5/32-inch 7018 all day long, never once shut down.:cool2:

 

[Underdog57]

That is so strange:confused3:! Something must have been wrong with it from the factory. I have one, used it to weld this bridge together. Ran 5/32-inch 7018 all day long, never once shut down.:cool2:

Now that really made me Laugh!!!! :laughing:

 

[paulharvey]

Many of the 120 volt arc welders have really "ambitious" amperages. I just don't see how they are getting 120 amps out of them, (the transformers). The Everlast 140, and similar, I don't understand as well, so I guess they seem more possible to me. I think they might be rating them with 30 amp 120 volt; which is fine, easy enough to change to 30 amp set up; but your expecting to pull 120 amps+ out of the standard outlet; probably gonna be disappointed.

Anyway, all I'm really saying is you can Definitely hit the 10% duty cycle on these machines.

If I had my choice of "consumer grade" machines and didn't have to pay for them; I would take a big AC/DC 240 volt Stickmate and something along the lines of the Hobart-140. Then you have thin and portable covered as well as thick and heavy.

 

[Scooby074]

Ive abused the living crap out of my Miller 130xp and only ever hit the overheat once. Like a timex it takes a licking and keeps on ticking. Off the top of my head I dont know what the DC is, but its never came into play in practice.

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

I didn't even know 120v arc welders existed.

I'll second the praise on the miller maxstar 150s - mine burns rods nice on 120v and 240v.

If you get interested in them, the ESAB equivalent is much much cheaper.

Since you keep bringing it up, I'm puzzled by your constant assertion that 120v migs don't reach overheat when used.

The reason I bought my millermatic 210 mig is my small one kept getting hot and sputtering during longer sessions forcing me to switch back to stick to keep working. The mig did not have an over-temp shut off.
One day I got pissed at it too many times and drove to town with the checkbook...

My brother's miller 130 mig would get hot and/or kick breakers so much he sold it after a year - he's now buying a larger one (really he wants to buy mine actually and wants me to buy the miller 250 - lol).

Just my experiences, not the same for everyone.
To be fair - I'm very impatient when it comes to working and rarely slow down for any reason once I'm welding - so machines get the brunt of it.

Edit: I forgot to add, I'm very interested in the new inverter migs coming out - I think they will get more welding power out of a 120v plug.

 

[paulharvey]

So, back to the original basis oof the thread; I look forward to seeing Everlast 140 MiG videos. It's been years since I tried mig, and at the time, I didn't much like it, but I didn't give it much of a chance.

 

[rankrank1]

...If I had my choice of "consumer grade" machines and didn't have to pay for them; I would take a big AC/DC 240 volt Stickmate and something along the lines of the Hobart-140. Then you have thin and portable covered as well as thick and heavy....

Nothing to fret when it comes to paying for them: A decent 115 volt wire feeder and decent 240 volt stick welder gives one a pretty darned decent welding arsenal especially in relation to the minimal dollars spent.

Nice tractor choice by the way (wonder where I have seen one of those....)

 

[Sodo]

By the way I do like your George Bernard Shaw quote.

Since you keep bringing it up, I'm puzzled by your constant assertion that 120v migs don't reach overheat when used.

The reason I bought my millermatic 210 mig is my small one kept getting hot and sputtering during longer sessions forcing me to switch back to stick to keep working. The mig did not have an over-temp shut off.
One day I got pissed at it too many times and drove to town with the checkbook...

My brother's miller 130 mig would get hot and/or kick breakers so much he sold it after a year - he's now buying a larger one

Sodo "constantly asserts 120v MIGs don't reach overheat when used"? No Dave, that is your own creation. I never wrote that and never would write it. I wrote that my Miller 135 has never shut down, never thrown a breaker.

I am "polling" for some firsthand experience. I'd like to know whether it's internet legend, hearsay, department store welders, or good old "TRUTH". WHERE does this internet wisdom come from? So far I've come across no firsthand experience (with detail, settings, welder brands, timeframe etc). I've not seen a single 'experience' with enough crucial details to be usable for any "conclusion". Consequently my own experience (of never had the 135 shut down) stands out as pretty good info.

I have never tried my Miller 135 on a 15A circuit, only 20A. 15A may supply a lower setting, but blowing a 15A breaker sounds inevitable when the MFR specifies 20A.

And of course now we're off on a different topic, "120v Stick", which is a totally different animal. Do people still buy these now that great MIGs exist (since the '90s)?

As far as a 120v stick? 3/32" does sound like an upper limit. I recall welding with 3/32 and was no fun getting it struck. Even maintaining the arc with the flex of the (full length) electrode it was very difficult to control. Due to the flex you couldn't really feel the flux touching the workpiece. I recall burning 1/3 off the rod on scrap befor moving over to a critical weld on the workpiece. (this is 35 years ago!) I can't see any reason to use a 3/32 stick if there's a decent MIG nearby. I would try 3/32" stick again for nostalgia sake though. Maybe soon!

 

[paulharvey]

That's a whole different argument Mig vs Stick. I prefer stick, but that's what I learned on. I've tried mig, but only once, and it didn't feel natural to me. I may get one in the future, but there doesn't seem to be nearly the number of used Migs for sale as there used Stick.