Land Plane - Yet another build

jenkinsph · Jul 1, 2014

Richard,
I checked my land plane blades today after working a project. The blades are semi sharp similar to the edge when new. The edge is shaped or coutoured as it was when new in 2009, has a little wear but is definitely wearing evenly. My blades are curved 6"x5/8" x96" reversible, still on the first edge.

Oliver,
Here is a few pictures of my lpgs that is similar in size and with straight set blades. I think you will find that a hydraulic top link will be a great asset to have. I used mine to smooth over a new field area after laser grading today. I was running it with my Deere 4520 and pulled it at 3.4 mph in low range about 2400 rpm, pretty good pull.
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Oliver1655 · Jul 1, 2014

While I would love to have a hydraulic center link, the way my Oliver is setup with a yoke that the short link is fastened to, it is not an option. (Photo is one I found on internet.)

ovrszd · Jul 2, 2014

jenkinsph said:
Richard,I checked my land plane blades today after working a project. The blades are semi sharp similar to the edge when new. The edge is shaped or coutoured as it was when new in 2009, has a little wear but is definitely wearing evenly. My blades are curved 6"x5/8" x96" reversible, still on the first edge.

Yeah, I think if you are using good blades they'll never wear out unless you are dragging them on pavement of some kind. With a Road Grader I'm applying a lot of downforce on them which is not an option with a land plane. With that said, I'd not try to run homemade mild steel blades.

BukitCase · Jul 2, 2014

"While I would love to have a hydraulic center link, the way my Oliver is setup with a yoke that the short link is fastened to, it is not an option."

Maybe not true - It might just depend on how bad you want it. You obviously have a welder and know how to use it, see if this idea makes any sense -

Just a thought... Steve

MtnViewRanch · Jul 2, 2014

Oliver1655 said:
While I would love to have a hydraulic center link, the way my Oliver is setup with a yoke that the short link is fastened to, it is not an option. (Photo is one I found on internet.)

Actually it is, you just need to talk to the right company.

jenkinsph · Jul 4, 2014

MtnViewRanch said:
Actually it is, you just need to talk to the right company.

I agree, I don't think it would be a problem for Brian to get you set up. As long as you have the hydraulics you need the top link would be an easy fix.

Oliver1655 · Jul 5, 2014

Butkitcase, that is what I did so I could use a post hole digger. I'm just not willing to risk the housing for the pto clutch by having something connected which may go low enough to make contact. The cylinder I got off a fork lift to try is 4.5" bore & touched. I have looked at the "Fit rite" site before but they only show a single point attachment setup.

jenkinsph · Jul 5, 2014

Oliver1655 said:
Butkitcase, that is what I did so I could use a post hole digger. I'm just not willing to risk the housing for the pto clutch by having something connected which may go low enough to make contact. The cylinder I got off a fork lift to try is 4.5" bore & touched. I have looked at the "Fit rite" site before but they only show a single point attachment setup.

The reason Fit Rite shows a single point attachment is because that is what 99% of the people have. Contact Brian to get a custom mounting made I can vouch for his being very reasonable and good to deal with.

Oliver1655 · Jul 7, 2014

Have 3 miles of gravel road on the way to the gas station where I buy my diesel. The road districts, there are 2 involved with that stretch, are not the best at maintaining the road. 3 weeks ago we had a gully washer which did a lot of wash outs/cuts in the road. So I used the plane while on the way to get fuel. On the way back I weaved up & down the neighbor's driveways to fill in the washouts. It was fun to see the smiles on their faces.

I dropped the blade down to 1/4" below the skids. This seems to be ideal for drive & road maintenance for me. It collected material for filling in the washout & pot holes without over flowing the 12" high sides. When I went down neighbor's driveways, the center's were normally high enough, It was able to dig in deep enough to cut the grass thatch on the first pass & the second pass finished it off. As long as I kept the speed down, there wasn't a problem with it bouncing. Even when the skids were off the ground cutting the center berm between the areas worn down by tires, it did not try to do a nose dive. Weight is good!

I put the land plane on the forks of the tractor & was glad I hadn't added the extra 2' of skids I had debated on using in front of the first cutting blade. It handed very well but by the time I had it piled with dirt & had to raise it up, I was glad it didn't stick out further.

jenkinsph · Jul 7, 2014

Here is a picture I took this weekend using my lpgs to smooth a field I am working on. These do a good job of dressing up fields and driveways.

Oliver1655 · Jul 7, 2014

That sure is pretty!

What was done to prepare the field in advance?

How big a field & how long did it take?

How much below the skids are your blades set?

BukitCase · Jul 7, 2014

My drawing is a REAR view - everything added would sit ABOVE the existing ears to AVOID interference, but a 4" cyl. is a bit large for this

- My advice is free, and worth at least TWICE that

...Steve

Fallon · Jul 7, 2014

jenkinsph said:
I agree, I don't think it would be a problem for Brian to get you set up. As long as you have the hydraulics you need the top link would be an easy fix.

And if you didn't already know Brian = MtnViewRanch = FitRite. Good reputation on this board. I know I'm happy with my TnT gear from him.

He custom makes most or all the cylinders, or at least the mounting points on the ends.

jenkinsph · Jul 8, 2014

Oliver1655 said:
That sure is pretty!

What was done to prepare the field in advance?

How big a field & how long did it take?

How much below the skids are your blades set?

I started this job in May removing old apple trees and stumps and about 6 borders or terraces. Then leveled the field with my box blade and laser. Have about 12 days in this project for clearing and leveling. The land plane was just to slick it up and only took an hour or so. My land plane is fixed with the blades flush with the skids and blades are set straight.

I leveled this with my 3ph Frontier (Gannon) box blade and a Topcon laser and receiver, manual control no wheels and lots of rubber necking. Once I collect on this job the proceeds will pay for the automatic machine control add ons, I am sooo ready. This field is only 4 acres but that is a lot to smooth out with a 3ph box blade.

Rustyiron · Jul 9, 2014

Real nice build! I just checked it out tonight for the first time. I wish I had seen it earlier to mention that you will want a better wear edge on you 12" sided/skids. I used some 1"x3" bars and am surprised to see how fast I could notice wear.http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/204355-road-grader-blade-progressing-pics.html