Pat's Easy Change Vs Quick Hitch

[Gale Hawkins]

OK then I would give Pat's office a call. Something is not right because we highly load, jerk, apply side pressure, etc and that has never been an issue during 5 years we have used it.

 

[cletus99]

I just got my PEC recently and had one side of mine come off. I believe it was the linch pin also. I plan on getting some bolts soon to replace my pins. That should solve that problem. For now I wired the pins to keep them from coming off.

 

[deere5105]

OK then I would give Pat's office a call. Something is not right because we highly load, jerk, apply side pressure, etc and that has never been an issue during 5 years we have used it.

What make and model tractor are you using this on?

 

[gwdixon]

I am using the heavy duty black ones. Noticed they don't seen to clamp all the way closed. Seems the washer is holding them partially open.

The lynch pins don't clamp all the way closed if the bail is on the wrong side. Try moving the bail over the top and clamp on the "backside". The bail should not be on the flat side of the pin. I may have misread but I don't see how the washer could come off and not lose the lynch pin.

If that is not the problem then try hooking the lift pin from the other side of the washer and see if the bail will close all the way (with the bent part of the washer on the other end of the pin). Here is my solution:

View attachment 376791View attachment 376792

If the Pat's unhooks out the top, rather than slide off the end, somehow the securing lever is lifting and allowing the lift pin to slide out the top. The latest Pat's models have a combo securing lever lock for both open and closed positions (that piece of bent metal that holds the Pat's open for unhooking). A call to Pat's might have them send you a retrofit for those newer devices if unhooking out the top is the issue. (You did mention that this wasn't the problem.)

 

[deere5105]

I just got my PEC recently and had one side of mine come off. I believe it was the linch pin also. I plan on getting some bolts soon to replace my pins. That should solve that problem.

That is one of the options I came up with yesterday too. Not quite as easy to move from one implement to another, but if each implement is set up with washers and left that way shouldn't need to swap them.

I am using the Cat 2 version and bushing for the Cat 1 implements.

 

[deere5105]

The lynch pins don't clamp all the way closed if the bail is on the wrong side. Try moving the bail over the top and clamp on the "backside". The bail should not be on the flat side of the pin. If the Pat's unhooks out the top, rather than slide off the end, somehow the securing lever is lifting and allowing the lift pin to slide out the top. The latest Pat's models have a combo securing lever lock for both open and closed positions (that piece of bent metal that holds the Pat's open for unhooking). A call to Pat's might have them send you a retrofit for those newer devices if unhooking out the top is the issue.

I should have taken a picture yesterday, but didn't. From memory, the the L shaped washer is installed with the flat side on first with the bent piece facing out then the lynch pin installed down through the hole in bent piece through hole in lift pin then the "loop" of the lynch pin closed over bent piece and lift pin. I have noticed the lynch pin doesn't close completely. Is this how you are suggesting is the proper way to install? I recall trying different methods of installing and don't recall anything else working.

 

[deere5105]

The lynch pins don't clamp all the way closed if the bail is on the wrong side. Try moving the bail over the top and clamp on the "backside". The bail should not be on the flat side of the pin. I may have misread but I don't see how the washer could come off and not lose the lynch pin. If that is not the problem then try hooking the lift pin from the other side of the washer and see if the bail will close all the way (with the bent part of the washer on the other end of the pin). Here is my solution: <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/376791-pats-easy-change-vs-quick-pats_2-jpg"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/attachments/376792-pats-easy-change-vs-quick-pats_1-jpg"/> If the Pat's unhooks out the top, rather than slide off the end, somehow the securing lever is lifting and allowing the lift pin to slide out the top. The latest Pat's models have a combo securing lever lock for both open and closed positions (that piece of bent metal that holds the Pat's open for unhooking). A call to Pat's might have them send you a retrofit for those newer devices if unhooking out the top is the issue. (You did mention that this wasn't the problem.)

After looking back at the attached pictures, it looks like you have an excellent solution with the custom washers. That allows the pins to close fully and provides a good level of protection in keeping the arm from sliding off the pin.

Regarding version of PEC, this unit is supposed to be the latest as far as I know and was ordered at end of December 2013.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I should have taken a picture yesterday, but didn't. From memory, the the L shaped washer is installed with the flat side on first with the bent piece facing out then the lynch pin installed down through the hole in bent piece through hole in lift pin then the "loop" of the lynch pin closed over bent piece and lift pin. I have noticed the lynch pin doesn't close completely. Is this how you are suggesting is the proper way to install? I recall trying different methods of installing and don't recall anything else working.

I had this issue. A little strategic grinding on the washer flange will let the lynch pin close fully.
larry

 

[gwdixon]

I should have taken a picture yesterday, but didn't. From memory, the the L shaped washer is installed with the flat side on first with the bent piece facing out then the lynch pin installed down through the hole in bent piece through hole in lift pin then the "loop" of the lynch pin closed over bent piece and lift pin. I have noticed the lynch pin doesn't close completely. Is this how you are suggesting is the proper way to install? I recall trying different methods of installing and don't recall anything else working.

I could have been more clear, for sure.

First, if the lynch pin closes all the way when not on the washer then the bail is set correctly. If it is slightly open when not installed then the bail is backwards.

Second, try installing the lynch pin on the bent side (like you do) compared to installing it on the non-bent side to see if the bail will fully close.
(Look at the left photo, the first washer on the top/left in my previous post. It is an OEM Pat's modified with an extra washer. The lynch pin is installed from the "other" side and closes fully.)

But, after I made those special washers I forgot how the lynch pins were installed into the OEM bent washers.

The washers are very easy to make and then all attachments can be left with their own set ready to go to work. A cheap flux-core welder is all you need. Even a 110V Harbor Freight welder would do. But a farm must have an existing welder sitting around somewhere.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The problem with the L bent washers is that even if the bale closes correctly the pin is slill only holding one side. The web of the washer is gone on the L flange side.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

What make and model tractor are you using this on?

It is a 1976 265 MF Cat 2 with Cat2 Pat's system. For Cat1 implements we use the bushings.

 

[deere5105]

I could have been more clear, for sure. First, if the lynch pin closes all the way when not on the washer then the bail is set correctly. If it is slightly open when not installed then the bail is backwards. Second, try installing the lynch pin on the bent side (like you do) compared to installing it on the non-bent side to see if the bail will fully close. (Look at the left photo, the first washer on the top/left in my previous post. It is an OEM Pat's modified with an extra washer. The lynch pin is installed from the "other" side and closes fully.) But, after I made those special washers I forgot how the lynch pins were installed into the OEM bent washers. The washers are very easy to make and then all attachments can be left with their own set ready to go to work. A cheap flux-core welder is all you need. Even a 110V Harbor Freight welder would do. But a farm must have an existing welder sitting around somewhere.

Here is picture I found of how I was installing the pin and washer. The nail on the pin would not fully close. Seems like it is hitting the bent part of the washer first. Is it recommended to grind away some of the bent part to allow the bail to completely close.

 

[gwdixon]

Here is picture I found of how I was installing the pin and washer. The nail on the pin would not fully close. Seems like it is hitting the bent part of the washer first. Is it recommended to grind away some of the bent part to allow the bail to completely close.

View attachment 376832

Hmmm...the bail hitting the washer may be a result of the larger washer used on a CAT 2 lift pin. If you look at the photos I posted (post #104), the CAT 2 washers are larger in diameter as is the center hole. Bending those, like OEM Pat's does, might result in what you have been experiencing with the bail not closing.

If you are bushing CAT 1 lift pins then you should be using the CAT 1 Pat's washers and not the CAT 2 (larger) washers.

In reality, you don't need the bend in the washers. They only are there to hold the washer in place to keep it out of the way for hooking up the Pat's from the tractor's seat.

You might try just buying some standard hardware store washers that match the diameter of the OEM Pat's CAT 1 washer (get some CAT 2 size as well for those implements). Then when you get off to hook up the top link just take off the OEM bent washers and put on regular washers. The bail on the lynch pin would be sure to close then.

 

[deere5105]

Here are a few pictures of what I am getting when hooking up.

 

[deere5105]

Modification made to washers with grinder. Is the consensus this should solve the issue of the lift arm sliding off the lift pin? Only other thing I can think of right off would be using a bolt with locknut.

 

[Steppenwolfe]

After having my rotary cutter come off the lift arms multiple times today I removed the PEC. I have had it happen previously but chalked it up to being a fluke. Not sure what is causing it or can be done to prevent future occurrences.

Anybody else have this happen and find a solution?

Happened to me, to. Mowing down an embankment, turn around, and only one arm was still attached. My solution, took the quick hitch off, then and there. I'm not going to damage a brand new $2500 mower just to use a $200 quick hitch.

 

[deere5105]

Happened to me, to. Mowing down an embankment, turn around, and only one arm was still attached. My solution, took the quick hitch off, then and there. I'm not going to damage a brand new $2500 mower just to use a $200 quick hitch.

I too was on a slope this last time. Actually was mowing along the road and ditch. I was ready to do the same as you, but figure there has to be a fix to it. I have actually had it happen without the quick hitches too. Believe the pin worked loose on that.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Modification made to washers with grinder. Is the consensus this should solve the issue of the lift arm sliding off the lift pin? Only other thing I can think of right off would be using a bolt with locknut.

View attachment 376871



View attachment 376872

No. Based on pics, your problem is mostly due to use of cat 2 washers on cat 1 pins. The grinding will just help a little. Get some 7/8" washers

 

[deere5105]

No. Based on pics, your problem is mostly due to use of cat 2 washers on cat 1 pins. The grinding will just help a little. Get some 7/8" washers

One of the things I struggled over when ordering was whether to go with straight Cat 2 or the Cat 2 to Cat 1 since I currently do not have any Cat 2 implements. Did not realize there were Cat 1 and Cat 2 washers. If the lynch pin closes how will the size of the washer change how it functions?

 

[SPYDERLK]

I read your quandary on which size to get since your implements are cat 1.-- Good question on the washers. ... Couple of things. Note how the bent flange eliminates the web on the top washer portion. This can let the washer come past the linchpin at the top. -- Combine that with a washer with hole much bigger than the Cat1 pin and its more possible for the washer/Lpin to rise and the washer to bypass the Lpin at top and tip out and down over the end of the cat1 pin. ... ... See if you can contrive to cause this by hand. If theres any way you can do it with the Lpin at least partially in the hole you can bet that the shakin and bangin of non sedate implement use will do it sooner or later.

Your modified Cat2 Lwashers should definitely help, but if the Lwashers for cat one are big enuf OD they would be much better. Std 7/8 washers would be better still because there is no bypass potential. The modified std washers of ? gwdixon hold the washer in its outward position as well for easy hookup.
larry