QA Loader Frame Latch Pin Safey Modification
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dragoneggs
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I like the cotter pin design because it is easy to replace/repair with no tools.
OP
ovrszd
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Because the ends of the small pin have been flattened so the pin can't fall out, you hafta use a larger washer. If I was gonna weld I'd grind the bottom end of the pin down to pin shaft size and then use a washer that fits tighter. Would be easier to tack weld that way.
Share away my friend!!!! Just don't make me look bad!!!
No worries there!
My dumb phone won't upload the pictures for some reason.
OP
ovrszd
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That's a good idea Larry.
On the same subject, my JD2210 uses an intermediate driveshaft between the engine and HST transaxle. Greaseable u-joints on each end. Only problem is you can't get em without disassembling the tractor. I was at my local JD dealer one day and a JD2210 owner was at the parts counter talking with the mechanics and parts guys. They had just repaired his tractor after it threw the shaft out and busted the transaxle housing. Cost him $1800 to fix. He asked if there was a way to grease it. They said no, not without disassembly.
I went home and took up the challenge I cut two holes in the plastic floorpan to give access to the joints. Plugged the holes with square rubber grommets I bought from JD. $20 later I can grease my shaft.
I took detailed pictures and went back to the dealer. The mechanic that had worked on the previous machine was at the parts counter. I told everyone there I had an idea I wanted to share with them. Maybe it could save a customer an expensive repair. I showed them the pictures and described the modification. I told them I'd leave them the pictures for future use. It got real quiet. They politely acknowledged what I had shown them with tolerant patience. I left the pics and walked out. I'm sure they went in the trash can. I would never trust that shop to work on my stuff....
With the pin in position I marked where the washer needed to be.
We ground off a bit of the flared end to get everything to slide on easy.
I used a 10mm washer.
The spring came from Century Spring Corp. part # C-740 (5/8 x 2 1/2 x .080)
I removed half of a coil off the end of the spring but it turns out I wouldn't have had to.
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TripleR
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That's a good idea Larry.
On the same subject, my JD2210 uses an intermediate driveshaft between the engine and HST transaxle. Greaseable u-joints on each end. Only problem is you can't get em without disassembling the tractor. I was at my local JD dealer one day and a JD2210 owner was at the parts counter talking with the mechanics and parts guys. They had just repaired his tractor after it threw the shaft out and busted the transaxle housing. Cost him $1800 to fix. He asked if there was a way to grease it. They said no, not without disassembly.
I went home and took up the challenge I cut two holes in the plastic floorpan to give access to the joints. Plugged the holes with square rubber grommets I bought from JD. $20 later I can grease my shaft.
I took detailed pictures and went back to the dealer. The mechanic that had worked on the previous machine was at the parts counter. I told everyone there I had an idea I wanted to share with them. Maybe it could save a customer an expensive repair. I showed them the pictures and described the modification. I told them I'd leave them the pictures for future use. It got real quiet. They politely acknowledged what I had shown them with tolerant patience. I left the pics and walked out. I'm sure they went in the trash can. I would never trust that shop to work on my stuff....
That's a shame, we had a dealer like that, he owned the business and ran the shop, he went out of business a few years ago. At least you tried. I can't grease the center drive shaft on my Rhino without hiring a trained monkey, people that design and build these things truly amaze me. My brother has had to partially pull anf engine on some cars to get to the back spark plug.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Those pins ain't jumpin out Derek!!!! Good fix. Now the "rust police" are gonna jump on ya cause you didn't paint em.
Whew. whew. whew. (flashing lights and siren).. gotta paint em Derrek!.. Section C of rule 904.203.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Where is a "rust cop" when you need one! :laughing:
Easy boys! It's too cold to paint today!!! I have some other projects that I'll blast and paint all at the same time, come warmer weather.
I edited my previous post to include a few instructions that may help others.
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dragoneggs
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316 Stainless... boys!
clee4020
Silver Member
I know this wouldn't be as fancy, but what about drilling a hole at the very bottom of the small pin and install small linch pin in to keep it from "bouncing" up?
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ovrszd
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Yep, that's another good fix for the problem. Only down side is it requires the operator to maintain a loose part and to remember to install it.
Someone mentioned their Kubota Operator's manual for their loader talked about such a latch pin. I've never saw one. You know how sometimes when you read a Kubota manual the wording seems oddly organized and the sentences don't quite make sense??? Written by someone of a different nationality and vocabulary. I'm thinking maybe the comments about a pin is in reference to the small pin we are trying to keep in place, rather than a separate latch pin.
