AMD's 1968 MF 135

[namyessam]

start soaking the square headed bolts that fasten the drive lugs to the rim on the power adjustment rail with PB blaster or equivilent. They can be rusted and difficult to remove. I could not get one loose and was lucky that I was able to remove the rim clamp and turn the rim past the stuck clamp and install the second drive lug on the opposite side to move the tires out then reinstall the rim clamp. I used anti sieze on all the rim clamp nuts since I had to cut them off and did not want to go through that again. I still have not got that one drive lug loose but have no reason to move it yet.

This is the instructions I mentioned earlier in the thread. The original intent of the pavt rims is you loosen the rim clamps, move the stops and shift into gear and let out the clutch to shift the rims in or out to the stop you preset without jacking up the tractor. I jacked up the rear end of the tractor and rotated them by hand for better control since I could not get one of the stops loose. There should be a stop on both sides of the rim clamp except if the rim is all the way in or all the way out and then the ends of the rails on the rim act a stop.

 

[AMD]

Wow... didn't remember you writing that in my thread previously... sorry for duplicating my question. I've been all over the internet trying to find something on it but all I needed to do was check here in my own thread. Thanks for pointing it out (again)!

I've started soaking the square nuts already, and by reading this now,along with looking at a picture I think I understand better... I thought they were all I would need to loosen but guess I have to do the 4 large nuts too.

Thanks so much, and again excuse me for overlooking the advice you'd already given.

 

[namyessam]

Wow... didn't remember you writing that in my thread previously... sorry for duplicating my question. I've been all over the internet trying to find something on it but all I needed to do was check here in my own thread. Thanks for pointing it out (again)!

I've started soaking the square nuts already, and by reading this now,along with looking at a picture I think I understand better... I thought they were all I would need to loosen but guess I have to do the 4 large nuts too.

Thanks so much, and again excuse me for overlooking the advice you'd already given.

My tractor looked like it spent some years outside since the 3/4 -10 bolts were frozen with rust. I broke two 1/2 drive breaker bars in the process and finally used a nut cracker to split the nuts off the bolts. A 3/4 drive ratchet would be better if you have access to one. If you can find the right sockets, you may need to use a 4 point square drive socket for the drive lugs unless you get a lot luckier than me. Antisieze on all the bolts when you put things back together would beneficial. When tightening the rim clamps, tighten each one a little at a time to keep them even.

So far I havent needed to put my chains on yet, hopefully never but I wont count on it. We had some single didget weather but not enough snow to even think about getting the tractor out yet.

namyessam

 

[AMD]

So far I havent needed to put my chains on yet, hopefully never but I wont count on it. We had some single didget weather but not enough snow to even think about getting the tractor out yet.

We had 8" Tues / Wed... my first time ever blowing was in the dark Wednesday night - and I'm hoping that the chains will help - there were several times that I started to spin and i couldn't actually let the blower ride the ground on it's skids. I'm relatively flat, but around the house is raised as is the path to where I built my shelter. Getting these chains on and having some time to observe in daylight this weekend will be beneficial. I shortened the top link up too much likely as well as I was being over cautious with the gravel driveway... I figure things can only get better!! Thanks. I'll let you know how I make out...

 

[AMD]

Well I did get the rims adjusted out the 2" I needed but it was a battle! The first side probably took me upwards of 5 hours, but I got everything loose and cleaned and done properly. It was definitely tough work though. The 1-1/8" nuts on the rim clamps were seized. A lot of penetrating oil, a broken ratchet and a few curse words got it done. The second side went much better except that I could not get either of the stops loosened. I ended up removing the bolt and rim clamp and turning past the stop to get it done. I'll have to continue with the penetrating oil and hopefully get the stop moved eventually.

Chains went on and I noticed a huge difference in grip. Now just the lights to go! I worked at them a bit as well but apparently did something wrong. They were lower priority to me anyways. I'll have to bring a multimeter home at some point to check what I've done wrong.

Thanks again for all your help namyessam!

 

[namyessam]

Well I did get the rims adjusted out the 2" I needed but it was a battle! The first side probably took me upwards of 5 hours, but I got everything loose and cleaned and done properly. It was definitely tough work though. The 1-1/8" nuts on the rim clamps were seized. A lot of penetrating oil, a broken ratchet and a few curse words got it done. The second side went much better except that I could not get either of the stops loosened. I ended up removing the bolt and rim clamp and turning past the stop to get it done. I'll have to continue with the penetrating oil and hopefully get the stop moved eventually.

Chains went on and I noticed a huge difference in grip. Now just the lights to go! I worked at them a bit as well but apparently did something wrong. They were lower priority to me anyways. I'll have to bring a multimeter home at some point to check what I've done wrong.

Thanks again for all your help namyessam!

I had one stop that wouldn't come loose but I was lucky it was the inside one. I was able to get the outside one off and removed the clamp just as you did and rotated it past the stuck one and it became the outside stop. Installed the other inside and was set. I never did get it off and figure I will have to resort to heat, but am a little reluctant so I dont get it too hot and melt the tube. Glad you made out ok. The chains make a big difference especially on packed snow and ice.

I was in the same situation when I did mine. I just got done rebuilding the engine and didn't even have the loader back one when the snow started and seemed to never stop that year. I was under the gun the whole winter. started out with a back blade until I got the loader on. Then added the chains but had to go slow till I got the rims moved out. It was a real chore I don't want to go through again. I mentioned earlier in the thread about the heat houser. I think you found a picture of one but I finally got pictures of mine I will post when I get home later.

 

[namyessam]

heres pictures of the heat houser, front mounted auxiliary hydraulic system and the two spool auxiliary valve on my tractor.

 

[AMD]

heres pictures of the heat houser, front mounted auxiliary hydraulic system and the two spool auxiliary valve on my tractor.

Cool. I haven't minded it too much so far, but the one thing I did notice my first night was that my thighs of all things got cold. I guess this would help with that a lot. I really had never heard of one before you mentioned it!

What's the windshield? Plastic? Wouldn't do much for a rear mount blower when I'm turned around most of the time!!

 

[namyessam]

Cool. I haven't minded it too much so far, but the one thing I did notice my first night was that my thighs of all things got cold. I guess this would help with that a lot. I really had never heard of one before you mentioned it!

What's the windshield? Plastic? Wouldn't do much for a rear mount blower when I'm turned around most of the time!!

The windshield is a flexible clear vinyl. They do have a top and a rear curtain available for an additional cost. Since the Massey is side entry, I suppose the rear curtain would help if you had the top. The heat coming off the radiator, manifold, and engine block does make it a bit more comfortable. I think just breaking the wind makes the big difference. I thought it may not help too much with a rear mounted blower especially if the wind is blowing back at you. You can get a bit of snow on you. Hope the winter isn't too bad on you. Maybe Santa Claus will bring us a new tractor with a cab. LOL

 

[AMD]

Everything had been going well with the tractor until the 22nd of Dec - got home from work and needed to blow snow. Had the tractor plugged in while I was out, so started and went in to see wifey and son and get changed. Came out to find a puddle of oil under the tractor which was pouring out of the filter assembly at the top. I tightened the bolt as a first fix, and added oil and it seemed to stop leaking. I watched it as I blew snow and twice more it started leaking (not as badly though). I did decide that I was going to convert to a screw-on filter though - I got the parts at the local dealer and the conversion went smoothly. When I removed the old filter cartridge and assembly I saw this:


Very evident what the problem was - the gasket had swollen in three places and was very hard. Has anyone else ever seen this happen? The filter (along with gaskets) had only been changed in the summer so age shouldn't have been an issue. Anyway, I've now eliminated that with the spin-on!

Also got lights working over the holidays!

 

[namyessam]

Everything had been going well with the tractor until the 22nd of Dec - got home from work and needed to blow snow. Had the tractor plugged in while I was out, so started and went in to see wifey and son and get changed. Came out to find a puddle of oil under the tractor which was pouring out of the filter assembly at the top. I tightened the bolt as a first fix, and added oil and it seemed to stop leaking. I watched it as I blew snow and twice more it started leaking (not as badly though). I did decide that I was going to convert to a screw-on filter though - I got the parts at the local dealer and the conversion went smoothly. When I removed the old filter cartridge and assembly I saw this:
View attachment 352469

Very evident what the problem was - the gasket had swollen in three places and was very hard. Has anyone else ever seen this happen? The filter (along with gaskets) had only been changed in the summer so age shouldn't have been an issue. Anyway, I've now eliminated that with the spin-on!

Also got lights working over the holidays!
View attachment 352470

Didn't recognize the filter and looked back in the thread to find you had a perkins diesel. I have a continental. Are you running any oil additive that the probable buna o-ring did not like, otherwise I have no idea what would cause the deformation. Great looking lights. I like the combination of the front grill and flat fender lights. It looks like you have the rear work light fixed also. I bet that makes working at night a whole lot easier.

namyessam

 

[AMD]

Didn't recognize the filter and looked back in the thread to find you had a perkins diesel. I have a continental. Are you running any oil additive that the probable buna o-ring did not like, otherwise I have no idea what would cause the deformation. Great looking lights. I like the combination of the front grill and flat fender lights. It looks like you have the rear work light fixed also. I bet that makes working at night a whole lot easier.

namyessam

Nope, no additives being used at all - just 15W40. It just seemed very odd to me that a few days before it had run fine and then all of a sudden the deformed o-ring. We had a cold snap, down to below -20C but that wasn't the first time that had happened either...

The fenders were originally from an industrial model the dealer told me, and there are 2 lights facing back just like forward. They had a red film over them originally I'm assuming maybe to be used as a brake? I peeled the film off and wired them to allow both to serve as work lights. Of course with the holidays and being off work I've had no need to blow at night yet so haven't been able to give the lights a true test - I'll report when I do!

Guess neither of us got that new tractor from Santa, eh?

 

[namyessam]

Actually, shortly after I wrote that message, I was looking at this forum and Mrs. Clause said to me, "I'm getting concerned with all the work you do to keep that tractor running. Are you going to want to keep doing that after you retire when we build the house on the acreage. you are going to need a tractor that won't need so much care. Why don't you sell that tractor and I will buy you a new one while I am still working." Well, I've started looking and dreaming, seeing visions of $$$ signs dance in my head wondering how to justify it. I can't, but how can I pass up an offer like that.

namyessam

 

[redman135]

I had a 135 with a perkins for 27 years and I never had an "O" ring fail like that

 

[AMD]

Actually, shortly after I wrote that message, I was looking at this forum and Mrs. Clause said to me, "I'm getting concerned with all the work you do to keep that tractor running. Are you going to want to keep doing that after you retire when we build the house on the acreage. you are going to need a tractor that won't need so much care. Why don't you sell that tractor and I will buy you a new one while I am still working." Well, I've started looking and dreaming, seeing visions of $$$ signs dance in my head wondering how to justify it. I can't, but how can I pass up an offer like that.

namyessam

That sounds like a green light to me!! But I'd be in the same boat as you - hard to justify all that money. But I'm sure the tractor hunting would be enjoyable > Good luck if you decide to go for it!!

 

[AMD]

I had a 135 with a perkins for 27 years and I never had an "O" ring fail like that

I guess I'm just lucky - I haven't even had mine for a year! At least I do know it won't happen to me again though!

The dealer said the only issues he'd heard of with them was if they weren't seated properly in the groove - but that doesn't appear to have been my problem. The ring was seated properly every where else except for where it swelled. I still wonder if it had something to do with the extreme temperature swings we'd been having.

 

[AMD]

Finally had a chance to put my lights to the test last night while blowing and I must say it was a treat to have them! Only negative was that one of the bulbs blew after about 5 minutes - I guess not surprising since the previous owner never used them so it's unknown how old they are. Just need to find a good place to get them now...

 

[namyessam]

Others have said that "we" should be able to raise and lower the three point from the left hand lever. I have never been able to do that. I have to have the left lever pulled toward the seat and held to either raise or lower the three point using the controls on the right side of the seat. Then to use the loader I have to move the left lever to the center position and keep the position lever pulled all the way back on the right side of the seat in the constant pumping position. I cannot use the loader and three point at the same time. If you have the left lever pulled and try to run the loader the three point does strange things. As I noted in my above post. My loader lifts when I pull the right hand lever toward the seat and lowers pushed away. I never need to move the position or draft lever to raise or lower the loader. You need to hook the hose to the loader to the correct fitting to raise while pulling the right lever toward the seat. Then you should be able to lower the loader by pushing the lever away from the seat. If you don't change the hose location, you will need to screw that valve back in I think.
I have the same problem with the trip bucket. I have since added a front pump to the tractor that I use to raise and lower the loader and have added a cylinder to the oversized snow bucket for dumping using the standard tractor hydraulics. In time I intend to change to a joystick and run both from the front pump. I still use the trip for the dirt bucket. I know its awkward moving the lever back and forth to change from loader to three point but you will get used to it.

I have been doing some web surfing lately since the weather has been so rough and ran across an owners manual for the auxiliary valves we have on our tractors along with intructions for operation with single and double acting cylinders in various applications. In my quote and as others have stated that we should be able to operate our three points with the left hand lever and neither one of us could get it to operate in this way. Well, in this manual it states to do this with a double spool valve, place the draft lever in the transport position and the position lever in the constant pumping position. Remember the screw on the front of the valve you unscrewed on the right hand valve to operate the single acting lift cylinders for the loader, the screw on the left hand valve has to be turned out as well. You then should be able to operate the three point with the left hand lever. I have not had a chance to try this, but in earlier attempts, I don't believe I had the position lever in the constant pumping position and am not sure what position the the screw on the front of the valve is in. It seems that if we are able to operate in this way it may eliminate the need to move our hands back and forth from the auxiliary valve to the position lever to operate the loader and three point. You can access this manual by googling "massey ferguson 135 auxiliary valve instructions" It looks like it comes from somewhere overseas. Its in a pdf format. The text is readable but the pictures referenced in it are not very good. Hope all is well and this helps.

namyessam

 

[namyessam]

I ran across another thread that explained operating the TPH with an auxiliary valve. It did not however mention about unscrewing the switch valve the same as for use with a single acting cylinder. It did mention that if it is used in this way the TPH will not maintain a constant height as when you use the position lever and lock the left hand valve back toward the seat. Due to wear and leakby in the lift cylinder the TPH will start to lower over time. Since pressurized oil is flowing though the auxiliary valve and back to tank when the left hand lever is in the center position on the auxiliary valve and the position lever is in the constant pumping position, pressurized oil is only directed to the lift cylinder when you pull back on the left hand lever.

How is a snow blower positioned when you are blowing snow, do you position it close to the ground without touching or rest it on the ground on runners? This may determine which way you operate the TPH. I am interested trying this out on my tractor when I get back to it. If someone has any other information on this please add to this or correct me. I want to get this figured out.

namyessam

 

[AMD]

Thanks for this namyessam - I'll certainly have to take a look and play around. The loader already seems to work this way so it makes sense that the TPH should too; although I wonder if the screw on the left valve is the difference. I believe I'm always in constant pumping position already so the only difference I'd think would be the screw. Will check when I have a chance.

How is a snow blower positioned when you are blowing snow, do you position it close to the ground without touching or rest it on the ground on runners? This may determine which way you operate the TPH.

My snowblower has runners that rest on the ground 95% of the time so it wouldn't be an issue with gradual lowering as long as it stays up long enough for transport or quick clean-up tasks.

I've never used the position lever the way you mention with the left hand valve locked back - I always just have the position lever in the furthest most up or down position and raise or lower to the desired height with the lever and then place it back to center. Thinking about it more I'm kind of operating it in a hybrid of the two ways you explain If I understand correctly...?

AMD