Snow Deere 3520 & Rear Blade

[mark02tj]

I recently bought a JD 3520 and I love it! I've used it for mowing and last week for spreading 50+ tons of gravel. I don't even want to think about what that job would have been like if I had to use my old walk-behind Gravely!

Anyway, I'm looking at a rear mounted blade to help maintain my driveway and clear snow. I found a good deal on an 84" (7 ft) blade and was wondering if the 3520 would handle a blade that size or should I look at getting a 60" or 72" inch blade instead? I'm not sure that a 60" blade will do a good job of clearing the snow since it might not clear a path wide enough to clear my tire tracks if I angle it while it's behind the tractor? Any thoughts from you guys that have more experience would be appreciated!!

And, while we're on the subject of snow removal.... Any tips on keeping the blade from digging up gravel from the driveway and from scraping up the concrete pad in front of my garage? I've talked to guys that have welded "skies" on to their blades to raise them up a bit from the gravel driveways. One guy told me that he puts a pipe with a slit cut in it over the bottom edge of the blade so it's a rounded surface that comes in contact with the gravel driveway.

I've noticed in a couple of the other threads that there are "Robolon" skids available for snow blowers. Is there anything similar available to replace the bottom part of the blade to keep it from damaging concrete?

One final question - is there a "float" setting on the 3-point hitch like I have on my bucket?

Sorry for the long list of questions, but at least they're all related to each other! :laughing:

THANKS!

 

[RoyJackson]

I'd go with the 84" blade for snow removal. It'll work for driveway maintenance too, but don't take too big a bite (probably don't want to anyway...it'll tear up your gravel drive).
There's a couple things you can do to minimize moving gravel when plowing snow. You've already written about a couple (the skid shoes or skies). Some folks install a pipe to the bottom of the blade to prevent it digging in. Some folks attach a non-metallic scraper (rubber, hard plastic) to the cutting edge of the blade. These would wear out eventually, of course.
I used the convex side of the blade to move snow. You can do this by pushing (driving in reverse), but since blades don't have trip springs there is a chance of bending your lower link arms if you hit an immovable object (like a curb). If the blade rotates 180 degrees, you can drive forward and plow. That's what I did and it works quite well. Since you're driving over the snow before the blade does it's thing, you might need chains...

As far as 3PH "float"...they all float unless you have hydraulic down pressure. I doubt your 3520 has this, but some tractors do and some folks install hydraulic cylinders for down pressure. Since most 3PH do float...sometimes the blade will "float" over hard packed snow or ice. Some folks (including me) added weights to the blade to minimize the float.

My rear blade is long gone (I use the FEL bucket or a plow on my Gator now), but if I were buying a rear blade today, I'd go for one of the combo units that have a flip up blade as well as a rake and gauge wheels. I think Land Pride makes one...been a while since I looked though. These combo units aren't cheap...you're looking at more then $1000. But they are a multipurpose implement.

 

[bennatti]

I agree with Roy on multiple counts...I do use an 84 inch blade on my 3320 (once I installed my extenders, my olde blade wasn't wide enough when angled)....I also use the convex side when moving snow...expecially handy when the ground is soft early and late into the season...when the ground is frozen solid and there is a substantial snowfall predicted I do switch to my rear mounted snowblower...

 

[94BULLITT]

A 3520 will handle a 7' blade. What model is the blade you are interested in? You are going to want something well built.

 

[mark02tj]

THANKS for the replies, guys!! I appreciate everyone's time and expertise!

Based on Roy's initial response as well as a quick conversation with my JD dealer, yesterday evening I pulled the trigger on a Frontier RB2184. I found one on Craigslist that I was able to pick up for $400. It looks brand new as the previous owner only used it 3 or 4 times since he bought it in 2010.

This one doesn't have the skids or the side plates (probably going to buy those from the dealer for approx $150) but the guy did give me a set of skids that he had along with some pipe to mount them to the bucket with. I'm not sure if I'll mount those or not. Right now my plan is to try and mount a 2" or so pipe along the bottom to minimize damage to the gravel. I will also be following the advice of turning the blade around and doing snow removal with the convex side.

I was pretty amazed at how beefy this Frontier blade is compared to some of the other blades available. This thing weighs in somewhere around 450 lbs compared to under 200 lbs for for comparably sized blades available at some of the farm stores. I'm almost looking forward to some big snow falls so I can use the thing! Nothing like a boy with a new toy!!

BENNATTI - I noticed the chains on your tractor. We don't get quite as much snow in Ohio as you do in Maine, but in case I decide that I need a set, approximately what would a set of chains set me back?

THANKS AGAIN for the replies and advice!

 

[RoyJackson]

...but in case I decide that I need a set, approximately what would a set of chains set me back?

Try Tire Chains by TireChains.com

These folks will advise you on clearance requirements and shipping costs.. Prices are on the website.
As far as clearance....I have 41-14-20 turf tires on my Deere 4400 (which is quite close to your 3520 in size and power). These folks suggested a minimum of 2.5" clearance between the tire (sidewall and top) and the fender. I had to reverse my tires to attain the required clearance. If you have industrial or ag tires, you may need to swap side to side (to maintain the correct rolling direction) or add spacers.

 

[jeffster]

Congrats on your new blade. One thing I would add though is I have a 7 foot blade and a 5 foot box blade. I actually use the box blade more for the gravel driveway as it has a crown and the 7 foot is just too wide. So it really just depends on your road/driveway. I do want to caution you though about the concrete. I made a huge mistake the first winter after our house was finished. We have a long gravel driveway and a poured concrete section in front of the garages. We had about 2 feet of snow and I was using the box blade to clear everything. Worked great on the gravel driveway, but it damaged the concrete. What had happened was the snow on top of the concrete had started to melt, then froze, then we got a bunch more fresh snow. So, as I scraped the snow off, it suctioned sections of the concrete with it, so it is pitted now. I should have known better, but I won't make that mistake again.

 

[SI2305]

I use a 60 inch rear blade on my 2305 and sometimes I thing that is too small. I would go with a 7-8 footer on your 3520.

SI2305

 

[bigtiller]

Congrats on your new blade. One thing I would add though is I have a 7 foot blade and a 5 foot box blade. I actually use the box blade more for the gravel driveway as it has a crown and the 7 foot is just too wide. So it really just depends on your road/driveway. I do want to caution you though about the concrete. I made a huge mistake the first winter after our house was finished. We have a long gravel driveway and a poured concrete section in front of the garages. We had about 2 feet of snow and I was using the box blade to clear everything. Worked great on the gravel driveway, but it damaged the concrete. What had happened was the snow on top of the concrete had started to melt, then froze, then we got a bunch more fresh snow. So, as I scraped the snow off, it suctioned sections of the concrete with it, so it is pitted now. I should have known better, but I won't make that mistake again.

I don't understand, would you explain the pitting in more detail please...... maybe even a picture? It sounds more like a concrete finishing error to me.

 

[94BULLITT]

I don't understand, would you explain the pitting in more detail please...... maybe even a picture? It sounds more like a concrete finishing error to me.

I think the sharp cutting edge probably scraped the top of the concrete,

Sent from my GT-P3113 using TractorByNet

 

[mark02tj]

Thanks for the replies to my original post!!

Here's what I ended up doing... I put pipe on both my FEL and my rear blade. The front piece is 1.5 ABS. On the rear blade it痴 2 ABS. I got both pieces at Menards for about $7 each. I cut a slit in them using my circular saw and then beat them on to the blade edges using a rubber hammer. On the rear blade I let the pipe overhang about 1.5 inches from each end and put a ｼ-20 3.5 bolt through it using a nylon self-locking nut. The purpose of this was to keep the pipe from sliding off the end of the blade.

I did all this based on this thread

It's long, but informative read. The general consensus was to use ABS instead of PVC. ABS is almost indestructible whereas PVC can shatter in cold weather. If you can find schedule 80 use it, but most likely you're going to only find schedule 40. (You may know this, but I read it in the thread the "schedule" refers to the wall thickness of the pipe; 80 is thicker than 40.) One guy talked about using steel on his and was going to have a "snow edge" and a "regular edge" to swap back and forth on his blade.

One interesting idea that someone came up with was to use "tractor belting" or "combine belting" bolted onto the front of the cutting edge on the rear blade. They said that this acted like a squeegee on the blade and did a great job. You can get this stuff at Tractor Supply.

How did it work? Well, the pipe on the front loader worked great! I did have to beat it back on again a time or two if I back-dragged with the bucket. But it did a great job on my concrete apron although I came to the conclusion that it's almost easier to just use my little snow blower for light snows - 4" - like we got the other day. I have to get my blower out anyway to do my decks and sidewalk. There is some wear on the pipe, but not too much, on the edge that was making contact with the concrete but I may just flip it over for the next time I need it.

On the rear not so great but I still think this is a good way to go. As you'll read in the thread, the larger the diameter of the pipe is, the less that it will dig in. So, I'd go with a 3 instead of 2 pipe. Also, I just laid about 3" of gravel on the driveway about two weeks ago so it's not packed enough. I think that with a more packed driveway, a 3 pipe (or maybe even 4?) would do fine. The other thing I would do is drill some other holes in the pipe in order to run some sort of cable or turnbuckle to secure it to the blade a bit better. I noticed as I dropped my blade on to the driveway that the pipe wanted to twist a bit. So I think that if I was dragging it actually on the ground (which I didn't do) that there might be a tendency to pull it off. I didn't actually try dragging the rear across my driveway so I can't swear to this. But I also think that for me, even bothering to clear my gravel portion of the driveway with less than 6" or so inches is a waste of time. My wife and I both have 4WD so we've never had too much of a problem getting out. My concrete apron is a priority though as we have a detached garage and have to walk across it to get to the house.

Again, many thanks to those of you that put in your $.02! I appreciate your advice!

 

[bennatti]

Late reply to Mark...

Got my chains from Canadian Chains in Skowhegan...Canadian Chains [Home] Drove to Skowhegan to pick them up..to avoid shipping ....since they are rather hefty...the cost was also a hefty 600 dollars....

 

[SI2305]

mark02tj,

Nice setup on your equipment! I too use a rear blade for snow removal on my 500' gravel driveway and I have never found a satisfactory way to avoid digging up gravel. I may try this on my old beat up grader blade. Although I love my 2305, I am personally envious of your 3520 so congrats indeed.

SI2305

200cx FEL, LX-4, 60"Landpride RFM, Grader Blade, Box Blade, subsoiler, new seat with armrests

 

[mark02tj]

Bennatti - Better late than never!! THANKS for the reply and the link. You're right; the cost is pretty hefty! If I was in an area that consistently got more snow then I would probably take a serious look at investing in some. But we rarely get snowfalls around here that exceed 6"-8". Most of our snowfalls are usually 3 or 4 inches and then melt within a week.

SI2305 - Thanks for the kind words! The first Deere that I took a serious look at was a used 2305 at the local dealer. Nice, clean machine (FEL & MMM) with about 350 hours on it. They are nice tractors that have a lot of capability. I almost bought that machine but then decided that I needed something bigger to handle what is going to be the primary job of 3520 - pulling honeysuckle. In my part of Ohio we are cursed with this invasive shrub and my woods are infested with them. So I wanted something that would handle pulling them out without tearing up the tractor. The 3520 is a little bit of overkill for mowing my yard though. Even though we sit on 5 acres, I mow well less than an acre. But, mowing is a lot more fun on the 3520 than on my little Ariens 8hp rear engine rider! Yup - boys and their toys!

 

[jeffster]

Yeah it actually pulled up chunks out of the top of the concrete where the ice had bonded to it. It looks like I have quarter sized little puts over a 10 foot area or so.

I think the sharp cutting edge probably scraped the top of the concrete,

Sent from my GT-P3113 using TractorByNet

 

[bigtiller]

Yeah it actually pulled up chunks out of the top of the concrete where the ice had bonded to it. It looks like I have quarter sized little puts over a 10 foot area or so.

The guy that pored and finished your concrete gets all the blame, he screwed up, not you. When ice bonds to concrete it stays there until it melts, a scraper of any kind will do no damage.

 

[Mechanos]

Yeah it actually pulled up chunks out of the top of the concrete where the ice had bonded to it. It looks like I have quarter sized little puts over a 10 foot area or so.

That is called spalling and is a direct result of improper finishing. The finisher knows how to make it look pretty, but not how to do it right and make it look pretty.

 

[4310]

I too believe that your loader didn't have anything to do with the concrete damage. Although I am no concrete finishing expert by any means I have poured more than a few truckloads.

Spalling can be caused by pouring the concrete too dry (or the concrete setting up before starting to work it) and then spraying water on top to add "butter" to be able to smooth it out. This basically makes the top 1/4" or so weaker than the underlying concrete and during freeze thaw cycles this top layer expands and contracts differently than the bottom.

Salt can also cause spalling. If you leave your car parked on the concrete and the road salt melts off your car and onto the concrete it can work its way in and start popping up little plugs. Also the gravel or stone that is used in the mixture can sometimes create the spalling. Some rock can expand differently than the surrounding concrete and if it is near the top it can pop up.

I know two things about concrete. It will harden and it will crack.

 

[jeffster]

Thanks guys, appreciate the info. I just assumed it was my fault. I am not even sure who did the concrete work as it was a sub of the GC that built the house for us (who subsequently went under right at the end, so that was a whole other disaster). Good to know that is one thing though that I didn't destroy, and can blame on someone else. :thumbsup: