Show What Tool You Made*

[sixdogs]

Here's an idea for anyone with a 3 pt. rototiller . The problem is stuff like twine and grass gets tightly wound up in the tines and is extremely difficult to remove. The solution was to find a tool with a hooked edge that would get between the tight grass or twine at the correct angle to get the obstruction out. I couldn't find anything so I made this...

The photos came out in reverse order--duh on my part--but it's an old sledge handle cut down and a hooked blade I bought inserted in a slot I made with a thin blade on my tablesaw . I think I got the blade from Smoky Mtn Knife Works. Anyway, the blade is fairly thin as blades go and has a tapered and hooked tip to it. Made in Austria. Most important, I mounted it at a slight angle--see photos-- so it clears obstructions like tiller tines and yet the tip is pointed and sharp enough to rip out tightly wound grass in mere moments. Same with twine or whatever.

What used to take a half-hour now takes 15 seconds and I can use that time for other pursuits. Heck, it works for me.

 

[graydog111]

I don't know if anyone would be interested, but I made a buggy-top shade for my riding mower that you could make for a tractor. The frame is metal electrical conduit. It folds back when it hits an obstruction by using 2 flat discs held together by strong coil springs. A steel ball between the discs locks it into place by falling into a small hole. I covered it with a very tough vinyl fabric with nylon threads embedded in it. The retailer said it was school bus fabric. It seems to last forever. I sprayed the underside with contact cement and covered it with aluminum foil to make it cooler in Oklahoma's summer heat. It really works good and was worth the effort to build. I can take some more photos if anyone is interested.

..........

Click on thumbnails to enlarge.​

 

[Midniteoyl]

Now you did it! Safety police will come in a few... (no ROPs or discharge)

I like the buggy shade. You have a close up pic of the spring/disc/ball assembly? Only reason I never did this was precisely 'cause of overhanging obstacles.

 

[CNC Dan]

.... And how about a source for the fabric. I need to put a new top on an open top stock trailer.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Sunbrella fabric is the best. Man up and head into your local large sewing store and some styles should be in stock or order online.

 

[graydog111]

Sunbrella fabric is the best. Man up and head into your local large sewing store and some styles should be in stock or order online.

That sounds like good advice. I bought mine at an upholstery fabric store. He also carries a variety of vinyls similar to Naugahyde. I just told him I wanted the toughest he had. Since then, I have bought other colors of same fabric for other projects.

Midniteoyl:
I will take close ups of the spring/disc/ball assembly and post here.

 

[CNC Dan]

Sunbrella fabric is the best. Man up and head into your local large sewing store and some styles should be in stock or order online.

Thanks. Never thought that a sewing store would have non-clothing fabrics.

 

[City Farmer]

These are the two places I use when I need fabric (or anything else) for a project. Made a mooring cover, windows and all new seats for the boat. My lowest quote was $3700, they told me they were doing me an end of season favor. I did everything including buying the machine for about $800. Its not hard once you start. You'll feel invincible and will be able to fix anything canvas after 10 minutes on the machine.
Sailrite.com | Home
Outdoor Fabrics for Marine, Awning & Furniture - Outdoor Textiles

 

[graydog111]

Here are the photos of "spring/disc/ball assembly". Not as good as I had hoped, but the best I could do.

The Build:
I went to a local auto parts store and found he stocked some 3/8 SS balls. I needed 2 but bought 4.

I cut out the four = 1/4" steel discs drilled a 3/8" center hole, and welded one to each of the upright supports. I welded 3 tabs on the other two discs for the bows to bolt to.

I then bolted each pair together and drilled a 1/8" pilot hole with the center tab extending straight up. I unbolted each pair, and enlarged the 1/8" hole in the one that was welded to upright to 3/8" and deep enough to let the ball go in about 2/3 of it's diameter. I enlarged the hole in the discs with the tabs using a 3/8" bit, but drilling only about 1/8" deep.

The depth will depend on how easily you want it to fold back, how well it is lubricated, and how strong the springs are. I did not grease mine, but after several years, I took it apart to weld a broken bow and greased them. After that, I had to get stronger springs or it would fold down without any reason. I am now using 2 springs on each set of discs, one inside the other. They are all old brake springs etc. that I have collected over the years.

Click on thumbnail to enlarge.

 

[graydog111]

These are the two places I use when I need fabric (or anything else) for a project. Made a mooring cover, windows and all new seats for the boat. My lowest quote was $3700, they told me they were doing me an end of season favor. I did everything including buying the machine for about $800. Its not hard once you start. You'll feel invincible and will be able to fix anything canvas after 10 minutes on the machine.
Sailrite.com | Home
Outdoor Fabrics for Marine, Awning & Furniture - Outdoor Textiles

Do you have a walking foot machine? I have an old Singer 16U288 walking foot I bought about 15 years ago for $250.00. One of the best investment I ever made. The new ones are nicer but more dinero$.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Here are the photos of "spring/disc/ball assembly". Not as good as I had hoped, but the best I could do.

The Build:
I went to a local auto parts store and found he stocked some 3/8 SS balls. I needed 2 but bought 4.

I cut out the four = 1/4" steel discs drilled a 3/8" center hole, and welded one to each of the upright supports. I welded 3 tabs on the other two discs for the bows to bolt to.

I then bolted each pair together and drilled a 1/8" pilot hole with the center tab extending straight up. I unbolted each pair, and enlarged the 1/8" hole in the one that was welded to upright to 3/8" and deep enough to let the ball go in about 2/3 of it's diameter. I enlarged the hole in the discs with the tabs using a 3/8" bit, but drilling only about 1/8" deep.

The depth will depend on how easily you want it to fold back, how well it is lubricated, and how strong the springs are. I did not grease mine, but after several years, I took it apart to weld a broken bow and greased them. After that, I had to get stronger springs or it would fold down without any reason. I am now using 2 springs on each set of discs, one inside the other. They are all old brake springs etc. that I have collected over the years.

Click on thumbnail to enlarge.

Awesome! Thanks!

 

[sixdogs]

graydog--very creative. Excellent.

 

[graydog111]

graydog--very creative. Excellent.

Thanks guys. I hope that's enough info. I could not get good enough pics of the braces that hold the bows out, so I didn't post them.

The braces are about 3/16" x 1/2" flat strap steel. I needed 8 pieces, about 10" long with a hole in one end to bolt loosely to the bows. Joining them together to make 4 braces was the problem. I drilled holes in the other ends of 4 of them. On the other 4, I set the hole back about 3/4" from the ends. On this end, I welded on a small "L" about 1/2" long. This allows the brace to hinge upward, but not downward. When the brace is extended, it move downward slightly past center to lock in place. I pinned the 2 pieces together and tack welded instead of bolting to make it smoother.

To collapse the shade by moving the bows toward each other, I must raise the brace slightly. It's the same action used on an A Frame ladder to keep the two sections apart and used on some briefcase lids.

 

[ns_in_tex]

I was unable to remove the stump jumper nut on my 20' bush hog mower with a 1" impact wrench.

We cut a 5" long piece of sch 120 2" pipe, then welded a 2" long piece of 1" square to one side. Then welded some stops about midway of the 1" square, so our impact socket would only go on so far. We put the impact socket on the new tool, held it up on the stump jumper nut with a floor jack. Then inserted a 11' piece of 1-1/2" steel rod through the sch 120 pipe and hooked a tractor to the 11' lever to turn it.

Made a super breaker over wrench, and the nut came off.

 

[City Farmer]

Do you have a walking foot machine? I have an old Singer 16U288 walking foot I bought about 15 years ago for $250.00. One of the best investment I ever made. The new ones are nicer but more dinero$.[/

Sounds like we have almost the same machine. It has the walking foot and enough torque to go through the binding, clear vinyl, canvass and webbing all in one shot, Without any problem.

 

[kg7il]

Some angle Iron forks, joined by an inverted angle iron to catch front lip of bucket.

The back edge of the forks are joined by tube and attached via ratchet straps
Greatly extends the width of items I can carry. Holds more light weight stuff too.

 

[wrangler6831]

Didn't really build it but I have used it a few times with very good result. If you have something you need to hold while loosening a nut, say for instance a big pulley or something round wrap a nylon ratchet strap around it so that as you loosen it tightens on itself or works well for tightening. I have even used these to remove and install the center nut while replacing struts.

 

[jjmarotz]

Need a way to hold two pcs of round pipe together to weld? There are ways of using angle iron, hose clamps, etc etc, but I wanted something that held 4 places and allowed access to tack weld in multiple places without it pulling out of square. I had seen pics similar to this but no measurements or instructions how to build one or where to buy. So here we go....
1-Vise Grip brand 11SP clamp
2-1" flat washers
4- 3/8"x 6" round bar
2- 1/4"x5/8" roll pins, or stove bolts would work too

Drill/grind off the rivets holding the pads on the clamp.
Cut 2 washers in half, I used a thin cut off wheel on my angle grinder. (ya I was a chitdip and in the pic, I had cut 4 washers before I realized it, dumb moment)
drill 7/32" hole in cut washers in the center
drill 15/64" hole in the clamp existing hole (where the pads were riveted on)
Trim the washers to allow the round bar to recess into the washers a bit. Die grinder works well here.
Install the washers, 2 per side, and allow some space between them and the clamp with the roll pins or bolts, to allow them to swivel.
Line up and weld the round bar to the washers keeping an eye on them staying strait.

There you have a clamp with a wide variety of sizes available. Also keep the original swivel pads as they can be reinstalled if needed to turn the clamp back to original if needed.