Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure

/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #1  

ben2go

Gold Member
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
260
Location
Upstate, South Carolina,USA
I have been having problems with people driving through my lot instead of using the roads.This had led to my septic tank caving in and my leech fields become so compacted they no longer work properly.Not to mention the ruts and roughness when cutting grass.So I am putting up a weld wire fence.The fence is simply a boundary marker and to stop people from driving through.At least I hope it will.I live in upstate SC and we do not have issues with frost heave.The last weld wire fence I put up was purely decorative and the fence was fairly short,so I set the posts at 10 feet apart.Now I have 660ft of fence going up.I am using 6x6 corner post and 4x4 support posts.I will H brace the corners.My post depth will be 36 inches with gravel bottom,and tamped soil back fill.This depth has proven to me to work great for general fencing and post setting.Would there be any reason I couldn't space the support posts at 20 feet?The run between corners is 150 feet.
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #2  
Like animal enclosures the key is a visual barrier. A sturdy "looking" barrier is less likely to be tested.
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #3  
20 Feet isn't bad for barbed wire but woven wire needs closer spacing to be strong. Ours was spaced about 12 feet and sat an 800 lb. heifer right back on her butt when she tried to go through it.
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #4  
T post in the middle?
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #5  
We use High Tensile woven wire with post on 20' centers. That's per the manufact recommendations. Over 5,000' put up so far and we love it.
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #6  
These might work also.

HLX48014.jpg
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I'm thinking 15 feet spacing will work.I'm not sure what the recommended spacing is on the weld wire fence at TSC.I'll try to find out.
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #9  
We use High Tensile woven wire with post on 20' centers. That's per the manufact recommendations. Over 5,000' put up so far and we love it.

I will second the idea of using HT wire. It is cheap and does not require as many posts as other fence types.

Later,
Dan
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #11  
Use regular steel fence wire and run 1 or 2 HT wires with it.

Bruce
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #12  
I can get weld wire here for $59 per 100 feet.HT is double that from what I can find.

I am not sure we are talking the same fence. HT wire is a single strand of wire. ZA High-Tensile $51 would buy over 2,000 feet of wire which would allow 4 strands of wire for 500 feet.

I bought my HT wire at the local farm store, I just use the kencove site as a reference to show prices and the wire. The kencove site does have good information on fencing as well.

I bought a small spool of HT wire years go to top of the garden fence and to fence off an entry point on our land used by some $%^&*() ATVers.

Later,
Dan
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #13  
I think you could do ok at 20', you still have the option to later add some to "split the difference", those could be as simple as treated 2"x2" on the cheap. If your going for looks and added strength, then closer is obvious.
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #14  
We are still a little off on the wire. I have used the single strand HT wire for cattle, but I wasn't happy with it.

We are using 49" HT woven panel wire made by staytuff. Here the link StayTuff.com




I am not sure we are talking the same fence. HT wire is a single strand of wire. ZA High-Tensile $51 would buy over 2,000 feet of wire which would allow 4 strands of wire for 500 feet.

I bought my HT wire at the local farm store, I just use the kencove site as a reference to show prices and the wire. The kencove site does have good information on fencing as well.

I bought a small spool of HT wire years go to top of the garden fence and to fence off an entry point on our land used by some $%^&*() ATVers.

Later,
Dan
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #15  
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Single strand HT.I see what you guys are referring to.That's what I use to make my X on my corner H braces.I normally use 10 inch long pieces of 1x3 to twist my X and wedge it in to hold it.I am considering going with the ratcheting tensioners.Any thoughts?

On the fencing,another reason for going with weld wire or woven wire,is to keep stay dogs out.I plan to go all the way to the ground.I may run a single strand electrical wire around the bottom, and keep the fencing about 6 inches above ground level.

I stop by my building supply house,to get a price on bundles of posts, and they are hurting bad.Seems they are on a 9a-4p mon-thur,9a-2p fri,and closed sat and sun to cut some overhead and payroll costs.:(
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Use regular steel fence wire and run 1 or 2 HT wires with it.

Bruce

How did you run it?One run over the fence and the other run under the fence?I saw this set up today at a farm that has alpaca.
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #18  
I have regular field fence, about $140 for 4ft by 330ft roll, with one HT strand on top, mainly to keep deer, bear, and fallen limbs from bending down the top.

No livestock, mainly a dog and person fence.

Bruce
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #19  
When you add ht lines to the top or bottom do you weave it through the field fence or do you use hog rings to attach it? Is it attached at all to the field fence?
 
/ Fence post spacing for non animal enclosure #20  
HOLY CARP!What are those?I had thoughts of making steel jacks out of 8d nails but there are kids that cut through, along with the traffic.

Those are steel beam anti-tank barricades. A bit easier to transport than the concrete variety. Of course they do tend to rust and look ugly after a while. The nice thing is you can place them close enough to prevent vehicles from traversing the area, but still allow pedestrian traffic.
 

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