DIY Top Link cylinder

[Buty]

Been thinking about my next project and I was thinking about a top link hydraulic cylinder. Has anyone made their own from a purchased cylinder? If so please share.

 

[Sysop]

As long as you have a hydraulic remote on the rear, yes, all you need is a cylinder that will support the weight range of your 3 point and will cycle the lengths of your original top link. You'll also need a pair of hoses with male quickconnects to go from your ports to the cylinder. Many times you will also want a restrictor to limit the speed of the cylinder. From my investigations most folk here go to fitrite for his TnT stuff. I think you'd be looking at about $330 after shipping with the hoses and restrictor.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Actually the L3200 takes a smaller dia unit than the 4035, so it is a few $$ cheaper. A complete top link kit for the L3200 runs $255 + shipping costs and those should be $30-$40.

Depending on how a person wanted to do it themselves, but you could build your own and save a few $$. But then again there are guys who seem to have bad luck with these types of things and they would save $$$ by purchasing a kit vs doing it themselves.

 

[Rustyiron]

Been thinking about my next project and I was thinking about a top link hydraulic cylinder. Has anyone made their own from a purchased cylinder? If so please share.

About a 20 min. job. BUT it can be subject to heavy loading and shock loads when bouncing over the rough stuff. You need to get it right. If in doubt, support a fellow TBN'r @ Mt. View. All I've read about him is good, and he does not "blow his own horn" when he has an opportunity to.

 

[bubbacuse77]

I made my own and Brian gave me advice, which I thought was really stand up of him. I think I saved about half the cost of buying it but when factoring in the time and messing around with running to the store etc. i was maybe a 1/3 savings. I just like to make my own custom stuff.
I attached a picture of my top link. The cylinder is from surplus center and the rest of the parts are from a big tractor supply store named fleet farm here in Wisconsin. Speeco makes the cat 1 swivels eyes.

 

[Herkypilot]

That's nice work Bubba.

 

[Sysop]

View attachment 334371

Interesting hydraulics bundle ya have there.

 

[Buty]

Thanks for the replies guys. As stated in the hydraulics forum, looks like this project may be beyond my skills so for now, it's more reading.

 

[sparc]

I made my own and Brian gave me advice, which I thought was really stand up of him. I think I saved about half the cost of buying it but when factoring in the time and messing around with running to the store etc. i was maybe a 1/3 savings. I just like to make my own custom stuff.
I attached a picture of my top link. The cylinder is from surplus center and the rest of the parts are from a big tractor supply store named fleet farm here in Wisconsin. Speeco makes the cat 1 swivels eyes.


View attachment 334370View attachment 334371

Nice job on the top link.

 

[JRP]

I made my own and wish I had purchased. A store bought top link has a check valve arrangement such that when you really load the top link the check valve prevents the hydraulic pressure from pressuring up the hose. I don't mean picking up an implement, I mean the reactive force when the plow hits the dirt and the force tries to compress the top link cylinder.

When my box blade takes a big bite the hose swells and the cylinder compresses, changing the implement settings. The pressure is probably greater than my system specifications.

You get what you pay for. A cylinder and hoses is pretty cheap. Works for many including myself, but a top link with the check valve arrangement is better. If you figure out and buy the correct check vale arrangement then the price is about the same. Lots of additional effort and risk, but same price.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I made my own and wish I had purchased. A store bought top link has a check valve arrangement such that when you really load the top link the check valve prevents the hydraulic pressure from pressuring up the hose. I don't mean picking up an implement, I mean the reactive force when the plow hits the dirt and the force tries to compress the top link cylinder.

When my box blade takes a big bite the hose swells and the cylinder compresses, changing the implement settings. The pressure is probably greater than my system specifications.

You get what you pay for. A cylinder and hoses is pretty cheap. Works for many including myself, but a top link with the check valve arrangement is better. If you figure out and buy the correct check vale arrangement then the price is about the same. Lots of additional effort and risk, but same price.

If your hose swells enough that the settings change and are noticeable to where your implement performance changes, I would guess that something else is at play? :confused3: But if you feel that it is solely because of the hose, then why not just get a higher psi rated hose and control the swelling-pulsing motion?

I know that on my own equipment I notice about a 1/8" movement in the ram from these pulses that you are talking about. I do not feel that 1/8" alters the adjustment enough to even consider something else.

Just my :2cents:

 

[bubbacuse77]

I agree with Mtn View Ranch, I don't have check valves and I have never had a Ram move enough to cause any noticeable adjustments.

 

[bubbacuse77]

I agree with Mtn View Ranch, I don't have check valves and I have never had a Ram move enough to cause any noticeable adjustments.

 

[Djames55]

Will this work? I don't think you can make one much cheaper. Link>>>CAT1 $129.95Hydraulic Top Link Category 1, 2 X8 Stroke
Also here is a CAT2 $159.95>>>Hydraulic Top Link, Category 2, Tractor Top Link | Agri Supply, 67465

 

[lostcreekranch]

A big advantage of sourcing your upper link cylinder from Brian @ Fit- Rite is that Brian will build a cylinder specific to your tractor. You can specify cylinder length and stroke as well as lengths of your hoses and QD to match your remotes. With Agri-Supply you take what they offer.

My 2 cents worth.

Good luck!

Rick

 

[ovrszd]

Will this work? I don't think you can make one much cheaper. Link>>>CAT1 $129.95Hydraulic Top Link Category 1, 2 X8 Stroke
Also here is a CAT2 $159.95>>>Hydraulic Top Link, Category 2, Tractor Top Link | Agri Supply, 67465

Yes, those will work fine and are a good price. I built mine and don't think I was much over that cost but I'll dig around and follow up with my cost.

 

[ovrszd]

Here's a link to the thread I posted about my homemade toplink. Looks like my total cost was $267.44 for a CAT II.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/273331-hydraulic-top-link-homemade.html