" A" style steel building

[rshrimp]

I just finished a 25x40x16 high. I purchased metal end walls with the building. When you do that you get 2 pieces of overlapping angle trim for the ends that make a 3 inch wide channel. The end walls are cut to fit and then go into that channel. We used a rented scissor lift and put up full rings. Instead of caulking which would be a royal pain during assembly, I had the entire building spray foamed with closed cell. It is now like a giant igloo cooler! One 18000 BTU window unit cools the thing easily even in Florida Summer!

 

[rasorbackq]

Been working on the front wall . All takes time when I have to harvest the trees before I mill them into boards or 2x6s. Issue I have now are the bolts are leaking water where the arches tie together. Cant tell which ones as they cant be seen . Only water showing up at the bottom of several rows.
No heat in building just storage.
Door is not framed yet as I didn't buy it. Stopped boarding is as I need to buy some vents to allow air movement.

Bent my flashing today. Dave to blend my flashing in I will paint the outside trim white and then will match.
BTW the boards are pine 1x11 and 14" x11'

 

[Dr Dave]

It looks good, it must be nice to mill your own lumber.

Dave

 

[rasorbackq]

You don't know how nice it is . I need a 2x4 I go make one . Considering the hardware store is 35 min away.Last fall I built a pole barn and needed a 21 ' 2x4 so I made it. That was strange looking. Finished up the top today milled out 3 more 2x6s for the man door and got ready for tomorrows work.
Once the wife picks a color for the siding it will be time to wrap up this project.

 

[rasorbackq]

Todays work update.

 

[woody]

looking good, I have one it is 24X30 and I like it. sometime this summer I am going to put in a exhaust fan from TSC.

 

[PhysAssist]

I just finished a 25x40x16 high. I purchased metal end walls with the building. When you do that you get 2 pieces of overlapping angle trim for the ends that make a 3 inch wide channel. The end walls are cut to fit and then go into that channel. We used a rented scissor lift and put up full rings. Instead of caulking which would be a royal pain during assembly, I had the entire building spray foamed with closed cell. It is now like a giant igloo cooler! One 18000 BTU window unit cools the thing easily even in Florida Summer!

Looks awesome and you can't beat that energy efficiency!

Not to steal Mr. rasorbacq's thread, but Mr. rshrimp, can I ask how many sq feet do you figure to have had foamed, and, if you don't mind my asking, what was your ballpark cost for the foaming?

I have a new steel barn, and would like to foam it, if it wouldn't cost my entire year's construction budget.

Thanks in advance!

Thomas

 

[rasorbackq]

Installed the man door today no lock set yet and installed the flashing drip edge as Dave suggested.

 

[rshrimp]

Looks awesome and you can't beat that energy efficiency!

Not to steal Mr. rasorbacq's thread, but Mr. rshrimp, can I ask how many sq feet do you figure to have had foamed, and, if you don't mind my asking, what was your ballpark cost for the foaming?

I have a new steel barn, and would like to foam it, if it wouldn't cost my entire year's construction budget.

Thanks in advance!

Thomas

The building is 1000 sq/ft. floor space. I was quoted $2/sq/ft. to spray 1.5 inch thick. (About 2500 Sq/ft total) We settled on 5K cash for the whole job and he even sprayed the garage door. The material and equipment cost is very high but I am currently able to keep the whole building 78 to 82 degrees in 90+ Florida sun with a single 6000 BTU window air conditioner.( No that's not a typo!) I will be installing an 18000 as well but that runs on 220 and I don't have all the electric in yet so we are just running off an extension cord right now. Amazing stuff!

 

[PhysAssist]

Thanks for the info, I did not assume a typo, because I know how good that foam works.
Thomas

 

[rasorbackq]

Well just had my final inspection and passed. Thanks for the assistance.
Now to get the water leaks fixed .
Soon to start on the wooden mezzanine

 

[PhysAssist]

Well just had my final inspection and passed. Thanks for the assistance.
Now to get the water leaks fixed .
Soon to start on the wooden mezzanine
View attachment 328246

It looks great, good luck with the leaks.

We are still on hiatus pending my RTW and saving up the money (again) for the floor (concrete with rebar) and electricity (100 amp service run with separate box from our 200 amp house service feeder) to be done by someone with skills and knowledge.

Be well,
Thomas

 

[Dr Dave]

Good color choice, it looks nice.

Dave

 

[rasorbackq]

Think I have beat the leaks Seems to water was rolling in as it goes down the straight side wall Because the bottom is chalked and the chalking seems to build a small dam maybe 1/4 high the water can't get out so it flows inside through the rivets and layers of metal in the base plates.
If the next guy building one was to slightly bevel the outside pad base plate area Then a smaller dam would be required .

 

[rasorbackq]

Keep an eye out as I build the 2 nd floor . Wood has been drying now for a couple weeks,

 

[rasorbackq]

Had a couple hrs yesterday to start work on the mezzanine Built from 2x8 poplar and spruce I milled myself. Should make a lot of extra storage in the wasted area above.
Will nail the boards on today . At least the ones I have then its back to the bush for more logs to mill.

 

[Eyecatcher]

Think I have beat the leaks Seems to water was rolling in as it goes down the straight side wall Because the bottom is chalked and the chalking seems to build a small dam maybe 1/4 high the water can't get out so it flows inside through the rivets and layers of metal in the base plates.
If the next guy building one was to slightly bevel the outside pad base plate area Then a smaller dam would be required .

I have a similar bldg., 30X50,and I used the commercial base plate to join the bldg. to the pad, utilizing 108 redheads. I have never been able to stop the water migrating under the base plate, and after 10+ years, am getting a considerable amount of rust and corrosion where the water accumulates. It seems to me that the water comes in around the nut/washer on the red heads, and the seams in the base plate. When the base plate was fabricated, it was stitch welded, so that leaves a path for water. I've thought about filling the cavities inside the bldg. with paraffin, but that would be expensive. Please post some pix of how you caulked.
Biggest mistake I made was not insulating prior to occupying. Too late now.

 

[rasorbackq]

Kind of funny Eye catcher Last week I seen an ad on the net where a guy was selling an atv . It was stored in a metal arched building and ea trough was coating with tar. After talking and seeing it his problem was the base plates were holding water so he filled / banked the outside so water would run off Still water got in . water was getting in the arch seams and running down inside where it cant be seen.
Since the outside and inside were tared he cut the tar on the outside and wedged it open with a U nail . Water gets in now and runs out the bottom. Will post pics tomorrow of my attach. I am winning one rainstorm at a time.

 

[rasorbackq]

repeat post

 

[guilty]

any pics of how you attached the lumber to the steel for the front wall? I just put up a 50x30 and I want to install a used 12x12 steel roll up door and am very nervous about the weight of it. My grandfather had a larger one in his building but it is gone now and cannot see how it was done.