" A" style steel building

[newbury]

OLD thread from 2013.
rasorbackq hasn't been around for a month

 

[rasorbackq]

I'm back...

The idea I used was to cut the lumber as long as you can and actually wedge it in from the side to stand straight .
Then attach with self tapping screws My wood was held in tight enough that I needed no screws until I installed the siding and the outside metal rounded piece.

 

[prichard]

any pics of how you attached the lumber to the steel for the front wall? I just put up a 50x30 and I want to install a used 12x12 steel roll up door and am very nervous about the weight of it. My grandfather had a larger one in his building but it is gone now and cannot see how it was done.

You realize this is a 5 year old thread? The OP hasn't been on this sit in almost 5 years.


Nevermind.

 

[rasorbackq]

I haven't been to this tread in 5 years but the link to my email still is there.

 

[prichard]

I haven't been to this tread in 5 years but the link to my email still is there.

Actually I looked at first poster on this page, who's been inactive since 13. I didn't notice I was on page 3 and not looking at the OP

 

[guilty]

thanx

 

[guilty]

wow. That does not look wedged in to me. It almost looks like they are free standing. What size lumber is that? 2x6? I am still waiting on a door guy to tell me how to frame for a 12x12 steel roll up. He is really slow at getting back to me.So I am at a standstill. Appreciate you taking the time and for pics.

 

[guilty]

did you stand up each piece one at a time and then toe nail them to base plate? Or did you build a partial wall and stand it all up? The company I bought building from failed to send me the last piece of building. The outer angle trim piece at top that is supposed to have the sign on it I guess.They want me to pay for it and the shipping. That's crazy! well I must go out and figure out some other carpentry stuff.

 

[rasorbackq]

I put one at a time so I could pound them over to be tight top and bottom and straight. . The outside piece your missing also helps form the shape of the front!

 

[guilty]

Yeah that piece is sort of important.You have one I see maybe it's mine...lol. Asked a company around here if they make them, no answer yet.You would think the company would send me the piece no questions asked considering they forgot to send it. They are willing to lose thousands in sales over a 20 dollar piece . I will not give them any promotion that's for sure.I laid one sill plate yesterday and tried a pattern for the uprights. It looks like each one will be cut differently so a pattern is no good to me.I built an extra heavy header for my 12 x 12 garage door so hopefully no sag in it.Made it from 4 2x8's and sandwiched in pieces of plywood to bring it out to 7.5 inches and glued and nailed it. Did you have someone install your overhead door? I bought a 12 x 12 steel roll up but it needs the chain block reduction and not sure how to figure out which one I need.So I am thinking of selling it and going with overhead.

 

[rasorbackq]

Couple things ..... Not too bad you're only missing the top piece. I thought you didn't have any of the outside front.
Next thing I see is you built it without a base plate attached to the floor. Then you grouted the outside like the instructions say. My building leaks where the 2 panels overlap (every rib ). I have caulked all 15 ribs from ground over the top to ground water still gets in 6 ribs . The screws with washers are leaking.

I never installed a door like yours so unsure how to do that.
Tractor and a forks will most likely be needed.

The company has you by the short and curlies as you signed the shipping manifest as all pieces were there.
I have told everyone I see that these building leak and the company doesn't care how bad to bad mouth them.

 

[guilty]

Yes the company is extremely bad in customer service. Once they are out of your yard it seems you are on your own. I wrote on sales slip that not all pieces are there and they still don't help , anyway they lose.I am thinking I will use a different overhead door , a regular one .Did you install yours or did it get installed by company? Did you torque your bolts or use a drill or impact to tighten them? I tightened mine with a small torque wrench. Also they were all done from inside and my wife held the bolts from turning on the roof so the washer was not cut up on the panel or hole. With the amount of leaks you are saying I think maybe that happened to you.

 

[rasorbackq]

Each of the bolts were torqued 3 times We started with a cordless drill but as the battery ran down so did the torq.
Then we used a racket and then a torq wrench.

I built it myself .
Ever watch any you tube videos of them torquing from the inside with guns and not holding the outside.
Like you inside and out for me 3 times.Only she was on the scaffold and i was on the outside.
Where my straight wall was on the inside of the first curved piece those 3 bolts were leaking. I sprayed with a hose and water leaked through. I changed all 4 nuts and bolts and torqued. Repeat with hose 2 of the 4 still leaked . Replaced those 2 and one still leaked then replaced the last one again and all water stopped from those 4 bolts . 4000 left **** that.

 

[guilty]

Finally got front wall on and man door in. Waiting on steel and large door. Built 4 ft walls on inside to run electrical. Have leaks on a couple seams and one bolt was leaking. Probably going to be very hard to fix considering the **** building is cemented in place!!Some of the pictures show how I raised the main header and plywood panels by myself.

 

[rasorbackq]

Look solid with the metal brackets installed.

 

[guilty]

It seems to be. I am going to undo the bolts on the couple of seams that are leaking and squirt some silicone in if I can open the crack enough. If not I have a roll of caulking to try.When I get the building tight I can finish installing the small walls inside.

 

[GLyford]

Personally would not use silicone, I would try butyl first?

 

[farm boy00]

Just remember with silicone you usually can not paint it with caulk you usually can paint it.

I personally do not like butyl because what I have gotten does not dry/set up for a long time

 

[GLyford]

I have occasionally used solvent-based caulking like OSI "Quad", unlike latex it can be used on wet surfaces. I don't know how it would hold up on roofing, I have only used it on metal siding.

 

[guilty]

did you ever get it to stop leaking rasorbackq? I am seriously thinking about loosening all the bolts and caulking under lip then re tightening. **** it is a pain