How Often do you shrapen your blades?

[duckhunter27]

I have a Z-Force 48 inch and I live in very sandy ground I mow atleast 2 acreas sometimes more most is just grass some is very weedy. I have been sharpening about twice a season.

 

[rcbe]

that sandy ground surely won't help. Might look into low-lift blades.. if they are avail for your deck. Yeah, will cut down on yer exhaust throw a bit, but prolly save you one sharpening session/season...

 

[Bird]

For your kind of ground and the size of your mowing, twice a season sounds about right to me. That's what I needed to do when I had a bigger place. But now in town, I only need to do it once a year.

 

[EagleTDL]

Check your grass after mowing... If the blade stems have a clean cut, you're good! If they are torn, or ragged or ripped looking, then it's time to hit 'em a lick with a grinder.

The actual sharpening process is worthy of it's own thread, many options and many opinions!

 

[MoKelly]

The actual sharpening process is worthy of it's own thread, many options and many opinions!

This is very true. I just bought new blades for my Gravely ZT. They are not what I would call sharp. I couldn't cut paper on the blades. Yet I know more than a few folks who insist finish blades need to be sharp enough to cut paper.

I was always under the impression you do not need to sharpen new blades and can install the blades as purchased.

MoKelly

 

[vabiker23518]

I have a rather old Land Pride 48-15 bush hog that I purchased used 5 years ago. I have NEVER sharpened the blades and use it to cut grass around my cabin and keep the trails open. I've looked underneath and they are beat up, but do a good job. I've decided to keep on keeping on for now!

 

[EagleTDL]

This is very true. I just bought new blades for my Gravely ZT. They are not what I would call sharp. I couldn't cut paper on the blades. Yet I know more than a few folks who insist finish blades need to be sharp enough to cut paper.

Personally, I wouldn't go that far... Yeah, you can get 'em that sharp, but after a 1/4 acres worth you'd have to sharpen them again to retain that edge. Not worth the trouble in my opinion?? If you'll talk to any of the guys doing it for a living, they'll tell you that it's all about the "tip speed" of the blade. If the blade is rotating fast enough, even a duller edge will still make a clean cut and that's what you are after... :2cents:

Eagle

 

[caps]

I sharpen my blades 2 or 3 times a season. I mow about 2 acres on sandy soil. I sharpen and balance them when the cut starts to look ragged instead of smooth. I use mulching blades and the sand just grinds them away. I usually only get one or two full seasons out of a blade.

 

[The kid]

I sharpen mine about every fourth cutting. They don't need much but helps make a smooth cut. I also take a nail and clamp in a vise and check the blades for balance after every sharpening.

 

[savageactor7]

imo these newer thinner blades don't hold an edge as long, so you sharpen them when to cut tips of the grass look frosty or ripped instead cut. For us that's every 3 or 4 weeks.

Aside from that I cut a lot of wet grass and a sharp blade makes that a whole lot easier.

Sharpening is pretty easy for me cause I modded our deck to cut closer to the ground. One of the mods was installing a few washers between the blade and spindle well that made it possible for me to use an angle grinder while the blades were still on the deck...

...yeah it's awkward and that move is best rehearsed first before powering up but it works.

My use to be neighbor use sand to fill up his wet holes and that helped a lot because then he could drive over that same wet area and not leave tracks...btw he used blow sand.

I tried that too and it works but we have a larger area plus I'm dragging cut trees across that same pasture so a perfect lawn is not our objective so much as a closely cropped lawn. It's a working lawn.

We hit golf balls out back and if you can't see them 150 yards away ...the pasture needs cutting.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

imo these newer thinner blades don't hold an edge as long, so you sharpen them when to cut tips of the grass look frosty or ripped instead cut. For us that's every 3 or 4 weeks.

Aside from that I cut a lot of wet grass and a sharp blade makes that a whole lot easier.

Sharpening is pretty easy for me cause I modded our deck to cut closer to the ground. One of the mods was installing a few washers between the blade and spindle well that made it possible for me to use an angle grinder while the blades were still on the deck...

...yeah it's awkward and that move is best rehearsed first before powering up but it works.

My use to be neighbor use sand to fill up his wet holes and that helped a lot because then he could drive over that same wet area and not leave tracks...btw he used blow sand.

I tried that too and it works but we have a larger area plus I'm dragging cut trees across that same pasture so a perfect lawn is not our objective so much as a closely cropped lawn. It's a working lawn.

We hit golf balls out back and if you can't see them 150 yards away ...the pasture needs cutting.

I have the high lift blades for the leaf bagger on my 3235 with 54 inch deck. About the time I think they should be sharpened I usually find that 1 or more of the "ears" have broken off and it's time for new blades. The first time there were 3 ears missing of the 6. I hope no one is around when one goes flying.

Bob B.

 

[rcbe]

I have the high lift blades for the leaf bagger on my 3235 with 54 inch deck. About the time I think they should be sharpened I usually find that 1 or more of the "ears" have broken off and it's time for new blades. The first time there were 3 ears missing of the 6. I hope no one is around when one goes flying.

Bob B.

That's why I cuss when I spot my air headed neighbor tooling around the yard on his rider cutting with the deck deflector pulled off.....

 

[The kid]

I have the high lift blades for the leaf bagger on my 3235 with 54 inch deck. About the time I think they should be sharpened I usually find that 1 or more of the "ears" have broken off and it's time for new blades. The first time there were 3 ears missing of the 6. I hope no one is around when one goes flying.

Bob B.

Bob, I've never heard this happening. What brand blades are you using that crack and fly apart? I have bent downwards a few but never had one fly apart. Do they do this without hitting something?

 

[Bird]

I have the high lift blades for the leaf bagger on my 3235 with 54 inch deck. About the time I think they should be sharpened I usually find that 1 or more of the "ears" have broken off and it's time for new blades. The first time there were 3 ears missing of the 6. I hope no one is around when one goes flying.

Bob B.

Optional high lift blade was part of the bagger kit I had installed on my Toro ZTR. The dealer gave me the original blade, but I'll probably never use it. Even when I don't use the bagger, I'd rather have it blow the clippings out. But I, too, have never broken a mower blade, so I'm not sure what you have that has "ears" that break off.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Bob, I've never heard this happening. What brand blades are you using that crack and fly apart? I have bent downwards a few but never had one fly apart. Do they do this without hitting something?

The first ones were the original blades. The second set I bought at the IH/Case/Cub dealer for $75. The set I have now I bought from a Cub supplier on eBay and are still OK. These are the high-lift blades recommended for the triple bagger and have a 1" by 2" almost vertical ear on each end. They start wearing by forming a "V" where the bend starts on the ear (I think on the outer end) until it eventually cracks completely off.

Bob B.

 

[/pine]

FWIW...
As far as the cutting edge goes...most of the professional advice I have gotten or read on the web...say the cutting edge should be a semi-blunt edge is best (some blades up to 1/16" blunt edge)...and not sharpened like a razor... seems like this would allow the blade to shear the grass...also the sharper the edge the more susceptible it is going to be to nicks and gouges...
...I have also seen new OEM blades with a thin blunt edge...that were "ready for use"...in the same respect I have seen new after market blades with cardboard wrapped around the cutting surfaces because they were sharp...

Also different grasses make a big difference...Southern Bahia is extremely tough and a finer edge works better than a non-fine edge but a clean straight blunted edge blade will cut St Augustine and leave it like the blades were cut with scissors...

I dress/sharpen my blades when the grass looks torn/ragged edge...unless you are constantly mowing over stuff that is harder than the blade steel they really don't need addressing that often...

 

[savageactor7]

I use the high lift blades and get them at the dealer and our lift fins crack and brake off too.

You need the fins to throw the grass. We've started replacing JUST the inboard most blade so the grass throws out in an acceptable manner. The last 2 blades closest to the discharge can have a fin broken and the deck will still function well.

I sharpen as shape as I can not razor sharp but sharp like a working survival knife...even sharpen new blades out of the box...there blunted for handling/ shipping I guess.

Blades use to last us a few years, not anymore.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Here is a picture of the high lift blades used in the 54 inch deck.

Bob B.

 

[ShearHeadMS]

Call me crazy but I take a 7018 welding rod and put a hard surface on all my blades, then I just sharpen them after every use. I still get a good cut and a good finish on mine.