Thoughts for downsizing

[bcp]

Every tractor is a compromise between one larger and one smaller. But every tractor is just the right size for someone, for some job.

I would tend to use what I have in a new situation, then see how it fits, or not. It can be hard to tell for sure in advance.

Bruce

 

[Grandad4]

I should clarify, I know better than to try too much of a slope. I have had the L2800 on the back side of a tank dam as steep as the property and it was stable, but it wouldn't be comfortable to work regularly. It is also too large for the lawn portion (which really isn't that steep). One option really is to keep the L for snow and dirt and pick up a dedicated mower for the yard. I'd like one swiss army knife, but my 2800 only has 100 hours and there aren't many new machines that would be a straight trade even with adding the purchase price of a mower. Did I mention that my wallet squeals when I am forced to open it?

Lots of recommendations here for buying a SCUT, CUT or specialty machine such as a Ventrac. I'm going to suggest your absolute most economical and sensible approach would be to keep your low hour L2800, configure it to handle your snow removal work and get the lawn mower of your choice for your 1 1/2 acre lawn, at least until you get moved and have a "boots on the ground" knowledge of what your work needs will be. You yourself said the L2800 has been a good machine, so hang onto it until you get settled into your new digs. Maybe after a while you'll figure out some other equipment would work better, but there's no need to jump the gun. If the previous owner got by with a lawn tractor and his ATV, surely you can get by for a while with a lawn tractor (or whatever) and an L2800. Furthermore, you'd feel awfully silly if you sold your L2800, spent your hard-earned money on other equipment, moved to Idaho and only then discovered that an L2800 size machine would have been the perfect tool for your new property.

Unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket, why take a chance like that? Besides, you may not come to regard having only one machine as a convenient simplification in your life once you figure out dirt moving season overlaps with mowing season and you have to change your one machine from lawn mower to dirt digger and back at least once a week. Your decision, but I thought you might want to consider another perspective.

 

[Don87]

Ther is a line where a tractor becomes a lawn mower (garden tractor at best). Subcuts broaden and bridge that line. In doing so, they are too light with marginal hydraulics to be effective as real tractors. Yet bigger, higher, and not nimble enough to compete with the best GT's for mowing and hills. They are good not great mowers, and fair at best for earth moving, lifting, and towing. As a standing power plant, they do offer good to excellent HP for still applications. As mich as I'd like to be a fan because I long for one machine that can do it all pretty well, I haven't seen one yet that meets my expectations. The mahindras max is the closest I've seen. Though there are still better GT mowers. I just wish it were a bit more refined with loader controls, a 3-range HST, and better implement connectivity. The JD 2320 and 2520 are the closest to meeting what I expect. But the price isn't so great and they have their own warts too.

Well, first we need to compare 'apples to apples'.......

Mahindra doesn't make a 'subcompact' The MAX 22/25 is nothing more than the old 1816 series CUT tractor with a new name(the specs on Mahindra's site will prove this).

So with that hogwash out of the way...........we have several things to look at. Mowing, ground engagement, towing, snow removal.

All the above can be accomplished with various attachments with a subcut tractor. A subcut has the FEL, MMM(with mid PTO), and 3pt. hitch, which is what the OP asked for. While I wouldn't suggest putting a 'haywagon' behind a 'subcompact', a little smaller trailer would haul sufficient firewood for several hours work easily.

Grass mowing.......While JD,Kubota, Massey may not be in the Simplicity line of cutting, I'm darn sure any of the above would suit the OP's needs(but then again Simplicity makes a nice tractor with an FEL.

Dirt moving: While a 'cut' tractor will outperform a 'subcut in this area..........I can bring a lower horsepower excavator to your property and put your CK to shame in a heartbeat.

Hole digging: I've dug some fairly deep holes with the FEL on my subcompact, surely a little slower than a 'cut tractor........due to the weight factor...........but I can still mow around my bushes with the MMM........thus a 'single purpose macine. I've also dug out small saplings(handily I might add), and if Everything Attachments would build that 48" grapple I would be set.

Snow removal: OP wanted a front mount blower. THe front mount blower for all the 'subcompacts' I listed is 1/5th the cost of the front mount blower(Erskine 540 PTO driven front mount) he can get for a 'cut' machine.

Ground engaging: I can pull a single bottom plow(but I chose a rototiller to save fuel). I haven't pulled a boxblade yet, but I do have a backblade.

Now if you want to continue to argue, we can. You will lose this battle.

A subcut is capable, it will just take a little longer . I purchased my 'subcut' as a comprimise.........'cut'=larger and cut more limbs to fit under, larger storage area, 3pt. attachments to mow, rear blower(unless I spend 10K on blower).

As I said...............I did not recommend a 'subcut' to the OP because of his driveway maintenance, but everything else could be done nandily with a 'subcompact'

And while 'YOU' may call it a 'garden tractor' , you would be of the 'ill-informed' that won't malke many friends in the 'subcut' crowd.

 

[Don87]

Lots of recommendations here for buying a SCUT, CUT or specialty machine such as a Ventrac. I'm going to suggest your absolute most economical and sensible approach would be to keep your low hour L2800, configure it to handle your snow removal work and get the lawn mower of your choice for your 1 1/2 acre lawn, at least until you get moved and have a "boots on the ground" knowledge of what your work needs will be. You yourself said the L2800 has been a good machine, so hang onto it until you get settled into your new digs. Maybe after a while you'll figure out some other equipment would work better, but there's no need to jump the gun. If the previous owner got by with a lawn tractor and his ATV, surely you can get by for a while with a lawn tractor (or whatever) and an L2800. Furthermore, you'd feel awfully silly if you sold your L2800, spent your hard-earned money on other equipment, moved to Idaho and only then discovered that an L2800 size machine would have been the perfect tool for your new property.

Unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket, why take a chance like that? Besides, you may not come to regard having only one machine as a convenient simplification in your life once you figure out dirt moving season overlaps with mowing season and you have to change your one machine from lawn mower to dirt digger and back at least once a week. Your decision, but I thought you might want to consider another perspective.

And this is by far the best advice given. I wouldn't change a thing till I got a 'heads-up' on the property. But don't discount a 'SCUT' if it fit's your needs later on.

 

[Gittyup]

Well, first we need to compare 'apples to apples'.......

Mahindra doesn't make a 'subcompact' The MAX 22/25 is nothing more than the old 1816 series CUT tractor with a new name(the specs on Mahindra's site will prove this).

So with that hogwash out of the way...........we have several things to look at. Mowing, ground engagement, towing, snow removal.

All the above can be accomplished with various attachments with a subcut tractor. A subcut has the FEL, MMM(with mid PTO), and 3pt. hitch, which is what the OP asked for. While I wouldn't suggest putting a 'haywagon' behind a 'subcompact', a little smaller trailer would haul sufficient firewood for several hours work easily.

Grass mowing.......While JD,Kubota, Massey may not be in the Simplicity line of cutting, I'm darn sure any of the above would suit the OP's needs(but then again Simplicity makes a nice tractor with an FEL.

Dirt moving: While a 'cut' tractor will outperform a 'subcut in this area..........I can bring a lower horsepower excavator to your property and put your CK to shame in a heartbeat.

Hole digging: I've dug some fairly deep holes with the FEL on my subcompact, surely a little slower than a 'cut tractor........due to the weight factor...........but I can still mow around my bushes with the MMM........thus a 'single purpose macine. I've also dug out small saplings(handily I might add), and if Everything Attachments would build that 48" grapple I would be set.

Snow removal: OP wanted a front mount blower. THe front mount blower for all the 'subcompacts' I listed is 1/5th the cost of the front mount blower(Erskine 540 PTO driven front mount) he can get for a 'cut' machine.

Ground engaging: I can pull a single bottom plow(but I chose a rototiller to save fuel). I haven't pulled a boxblade yet, but I do have a backblade.

Now if you want to continue to argue, we can. You will lose this battle.

A subcut is capable, it will just take a little longer . I purchased my 'subcut' as a comprimise.........'cut'=larger and cut more limbs to fit under, larger storage area, 3pt. attachments to mow, rear blower(unless I spend 10K on blower).

As I said...............I did not recommend a 'subcut' to the OP because of his driveway maintenance, but everything else could be done nandily with a 'subcompact'

And while 'YOU' may call it a 'garden tractor' , you would be of the 'ill-informed' that won't malke many friends in the 'subcut' crowd.

You don't have to justify your subcut's capabilities to me. If it meets your needs and you are happy, then enjoy. Thousands of others are certainly in that camp. I'm just not one of them. But, I won't lower myself to personal attacks. I think my assessment is fair and right on: Subcuts are good, not great mowers, and fair, not good earth machines. They are what they are. No more no less.

BTW, I never called subcuts GT's. I said they bridge the gap between CUTS and GTs. They are certainly larger and capable of more all around tasks than most GTs. Please read more carefully next time. I have a GT. I know what they are. And my GT will mow circles around any subcut standard frame tractor. Why? Because it is designed with mowing as priority one. It doesn't compromise mowing to be something more. On the other hand it would be a lousy loader, and couldn't pull a row plow effectively. I am far from "ill-informed", sir. I just call them as I see them, without rose colored glasses.

 

[Don87]

You don't have to justify your subcut's capabilities to me. If it meets your needs and you are happy, then enjoy. Thousands of others are certainly in that camp. I'm just no one of them. But, I won't lower myself to personal attacks. I think my assessment is fair and right on: Subcuts are good, not great mowers, and fair, not good earth machines. They are what they are. No more no less.

BTW, I never called subcuts GT's. I said they bridge the gap between CUTS and GTs. Please read more carefully next time. And I have a GT. I know what they are. And my GT will mow circles around any subcut standard frame tractor. Why? Because it is designed with mowing as priority one. It doesn't compromise mowing to be something more.

I'll start with the last first.............I never said you did call a GT a subcut(although you did imply it)

And I am not personally attacking you(so to speak), but your terminology, and understanding of 'subcompact tractors', is leaving a lot to be desired.

A 'subcomact' is a 'tractor' in every regard............except that it is smaller and lighter. But don't disregard it's potential just because of looks............they are very powerful machines, that are very capable of doing massive amounts of work, just a little slower than a 'cut' tractor.

What upsets me, is when an uninformed person comes to the forum and says that 'subcuts' are nothing more than a 'garden tractor'...........that is misinformation, by an uniformed person. Nothing more/nothing less.

 

[k0ua]

I should clarify, I know better than to try too much of a slope. I have had the L2800 on the back side of a tank dam as steep as the property and it was stable, but it wouldn't be comfortable to work regularly. It is also too large for the lawn portion (which really isn't that steep). One option really is to keep the L for snow and dirt and pick up a dedicated mower for the yard. I'd like one swiss army knife, but my 2800 only has 100 hours and there aren't many new machines that would be a straight trade even with adding the purchase price of a mower. Did I mention that my wallet squeals when I am forced to open it?

Trust me, if you are happy with the L2800, you should keep it, and get the mower.. You will be lots of money ahead, have a better setup overall, and you will have a machine you already trust on the slopes.. win,win win situation.. That is my 2 cents worth... good luck..

James K0UA

 

[jenkinsph]

I agree to keep the tractor and get a mower, then you will have a good one of each type. Moving from the L2800 to a subcut would be a dissapointment I suspect.

 

[Gittyup]

A 'subcomact' is a 'tractor' in every regard............except that it is smaller and lighter. But don't disregard it's potential just because of looks............they are very powerful machines, that are very capable of doing massive amounts of work, just a little slower than a 'cut' tractor.

Just wrong. It can't do everything. Not even close to everything, even if given an eternity.

 

[High Compression]

Quote Originally Posted by Grandad4 View Post
Lots of recommendations here for buying a SCUT, CUT or specialty machine such as a Ventrac. I'm going to suggest your absolute most economical and sensible approach would be to keep your low hour L2800, configure it to handle your snow removal work and get the lawn mower of your choice for your 1 1/2 acre lawn, at least until you get moved and have a "boots on the ground" knowledge of what your work needs will be. You yourself said the L2800 has been a good machine, so hang onto it until you get settled into your new digs. Maybe after a while you'll figure out some other equipment would work better, but there's no need to jump the gun. If the previous owner got by with a lawn tractor and his ATV, surely you can get by for a while with a lawn tractor (or whatever) and an L2800. Furthermore, you'd feel awfully silly if you sold your L2800, spent your hard-earned money on other equipment, moved to Idaho and only then discovered that an L2800 size machine would have been the perfect tool for your new property.

Unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket, why take a chance like that? Besides, you may not come to regard having only one machine as a convenient simplification in your life once you figure out dirt moving season overlaps with mowing season and you have to change your one machine from lawn mower to dirt digger and back at least once a week. Your decision, but I thought you might want to consider another perspective.
And this is by far the best advice given. I wouldn't change a thing till I got a 'heads-up' on the property. But don't discount a 'SCUT' if it fit's your needs later on.



Agreed! :thumbsup:

 

[Don87]

Just wrong. It can't do everything. Not even close to everything, even if given an eternity.

I'm glad you put my actual quote in that post. Everyone can see how you've conitinually misconstrued everything I've actually stated.

Until you've actually used one of these subcompacts, you will never appreciate the capabilities. As has been clearly shown in your posts.

 

[paulharvey]

I agree with the L2800 and dedicated mower, for several reasons.
1. Money, plain and simple, $1200 for a rider and good to go
2. He might need more than 1000# scut to dig if hes got rocky/shale/clay, he is on a mountain
3. You might expand what you want to do in a year or three, and find that you have to go back to CUT from a SCUT.
4. You could add a finish or flail mower to mow the yard area and only be out maybe $400~$900
5. Doesnt a MMM basically rule out any real dirt moving with out removing it? Dont know this for sure, I just dont see the MMM being very convenient

 

[Don87]

I agree with the L2800 and dedicated mower, for several reasons.
1. Money, plain and simple, $1200 for a rider and good to go
2. He might need more than 1000# scut to dig if hes got rocky/shale/clay, he is on a mountain
3. You might expand what you want to do in a year or three, and find that you have to go back to CUT from a SCUT.
4. You could add a finish or flail mower to mow the yard area and only be out maybe $400~$900
5. Doesnt a MMM basically rule out any real dirt moving with out removing it? Dont know this for sure, I just dont see the MMM being very convenient

As I said in post 24, he needs to get the L2800 to the new property and try it out before making any decisions.

I'll also add that my subcut is near the 2,000lb. mark with the FEL and loaded tires.

 

[Cloudrnnr]

Folks, Okay, okay, I am convinced. Now I just have to find the right rider for the mowing duties. I have the "Tim Taylor" complex for wanting a high end machine, but I have to admit, my $400 MTD off of craigslist has been very, very hard to kill despite nearly 5 years of Texas sand and oak droppings. It is at the point of being on life support, but the dang thing just keeps on starting.

On the L2800, currently I have the stock R1s. Would going to R4s increase the slope stability any?

 

[Cloudrnnr]

And you absolutely convinced she-who-must-be-obeyed that it was more economical to keep what I have!

 

[Don87]

Folks, Okay, okay, I am convinced. Now I just have to find the right rider for the mowing duties. I have the "Tim Taylor" complex for wanting a high end machine, but I have to admit, my $400 MTD off of craigslist has been very, very hard to kill despite nearly 5 years of Texas sand and oak droppings. It is at the point of being on life support, but the dang thing just keeps on starting.

On the L2800, currently I have the stock R1s. Would going to R4s increase the slope stability any?

R4's are generally wider, which sould make it more stable. But I believe the rim would need to be replaced to accomodate R4's. That's getting into a lot of money. You could just get wheel spacers to widen your footprint 'if the need arises'.

 

[k0ua]

Folks, Okay, okay, I am convinced. Now I just have to find the right rider for the mowing duties. I have the "Tim Taylor" complex for wanting a high end machine, but I have to admit, my $400 MTD off of craigslist has been very, very hard to kill despite nearly 5 years of Texas sand and oak droppings. It is at the point of being on life support, but the dang thing just keeps on starting.

On the L2800, currently I have the stock R1s. Would going to R4s increase the slope stability any?

yes a little, due to the fact they are wider. But that is a wad of money to put out for new tires and new wheels.

 

[Grandad4]

R4's are generally wider, which sould make it more stable. But I believe the rim would need to be replaced to accomodate R4's. That's getting into a lot of money. You could just get wheel spacers to widen your footprint 'if the need arises'.

This would be a good approach to start with. Put as much low weight on the tractor as you can get to stay in place: Ballast the tires, add wheel weights if you can find some that are affordable, strap your heaviest relative to the 3 pt (or maybe just an implement, if it weighs more ). Keep the R1's and make sure the wheels are set as wide as possible. Add wheel spacers.

These would all be frugal ways to keep your tractor stable. You may spend hundreds doing this, but not thousands.

Regarding the mower, don't spend all your time keeping an old beater alive. Get something dependable. You'll have lots of other stuff to do.

By the way, I hope you have a great time with your new place. That could be quite an adventure!

 

[Johndeere3720]

The Rear rims in your L2800 should be reversible. That being said you have the square "dish" bolted onto the rim. That dish should have at least 2 positions, likely 4 to alter the width of your tractor. The front tires can easily be reversed (left tire put on right side, tread still pointing forward) however that will put added stress on your front axle when doing work with the FEL. You also can buy wheel spacers online, that may be a good alternative to getting the most width out of the tractor, but I would defiantly start with looking at adjusting the rear rims since that will co$t nothing to do.

 

[Gary Fowler]

You could also put dual wheels on the rear. I think his handle is TungularFish Camp and he rigged up dual wheels for his CUT due to operation in beach sand, but it works for slopes also. Look at the Ventrac with duals. Kind of expensive proposition but doable and less cost than a new tractor.