NOISE FROM INTAKE

DUMMASS · Dec 6, 2012

HEY GUYS, I JUST STARTED HEARING WHAT SOUNDS LIKE EXHAUST THRU MY BREATHER????????/
I'M TOLD IT'S A JINMA 20HP 3 CYLINDER DIESEL(NOR TRAC NT204-C) 293HRS. ON IT, HAS HAD REG. SCHEDULED MAINT.

ANY IDEAS?:confused3:

EE_Bota · Dec 6, 2012

An other symptoms...is the power down?

LD1 · Dec 6, 2012

Hopefully you shut the tractor off. Sounds as if it is running backwards. (yes diesels can do that), in which the exhaust becomes the intake and the intake becomes the exhaust.

It is usually caused by doing hard work, and pretty much stalling the engine, and then whatever you are working releases pressure and caused the engine to "start" backwards.

An example would be be like pulling something heavy, and you pop a wheelie, and stall. If you dont press the clutch, when the tractor sets back down, it spins the motor in reverse.

Bob Rooks · Dec 6, 2012

Adjust the valves and it will go away.
Four stroke engines won't run backwards without the proper camshaft. Two strokes will.

DUMMASS · Dec 6, 2012

NO POWER'S NOT DOWN

DUMMASS · Dec 6, 2012

THANKS WILL ADJUST VALVES...IS THIS COMMON ? SHOULD I RETORQUE HEAD BOLTS TOO?

Bob Rooks · Dec 6, 2012

DUMMASS said:
THANKS WILL ADJUST VALVES...IS THIS COMMON ? SHOULD I RETORQUE HEAD BOLTS TOO?

Re-torque all head bolts first, in sequence, then adjust valves.
Those symptoms are usually avoided by performing this maintenance within the first 50 hours of operation.

LD1 · Dec 7, 2012

Bob Rooks said:
Adjust the valves and it will go away.
Four stroke engines won't run backwards without the proper camshaft. Two strokes will.

Really?

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/262547-hydraulics-reversed.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/259588-l3400-running-backwards.html

Bob Rooks · Dec 7, 2012

LD1 said:
Really?

Ya, REALLY! Sorry 'bout that. I was thinking direct reversible engines, and right-hand rotation engines. Only an inexperienced operator would allow an engine to stall anyway.

But I'm sticking by the valve adjustment.

greg_g · Dec 7, 2012

If this is your first diesel, intake is voracious (compared to petrol engines). I assume you're describing "sounds like exhaust" when the air filter is removed. In that respect, a good air filter might be considered to act as a muffler. If you're hearing excessive intake noises with the filter installed - check for damage to the filter itself. If it's ok, look for a hole in the airflow path between the filter and the intake manifold. Finally, make sure the intake manifold hasn't started to come loose and/or that the manifold gasket is intact.

//greg//

LD1 · Dec 7, 2012

Bob Rooks said:
Ya, REALLY! Sorry 'bout that. I was thinking direct reversible engines, and right-hand rotation engines. Only an inexperienced operator would allow an engine to stall anyway.

But I'm sticking by the valve adjustment.

Judging from the tone of his post, I say he is probabally an in-experienced operator?? Do dis-respect intended to the OP.

And I DONT consier myself in-experienced, but I do stall my stuff on ocassion. Not so much the BH due to the TC trans, my by hear kubota....I have stalled to before. Trying to work as quickly (efficiently) as possible moving dirt, and maybe be in a gear too high:confused3:

Circle G Tractors · Dec 7, 2012

Most of these jinmas have a little sucking sound in the intake anyway, adjusting you head torq and valves as Bob suggested will probably take care of it.

Ben
Circle G Tractor Sales, Inc.
Jinma Tractor Parts, Farm Pro Tractor Parts, Farmpro, Nortrack, Agracat

DUMMASS · Dec 7, 2012

WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO REMOVE VALVE COVER & SET VALVES......I'VE GOT SPECS JUST WOULD LIKE ANY TIME SAVING & KNUCKLE SAVING REMEDIES I.E.STEPS TO KEEP FROM SCREWING UP MENTALLY AS WELL AS MECHANICLY...
...ANY HELP WILL BE MOST APPRECIATED.

greg_g · Dec 7, 2012

Did you not get a set of manuals with your tractor? If yes, the valve lash adjustment procedure should be on pg4-1. If no, I can probably scan mine for upload. But I hesitate to push you into a job for which you may not be qualified. Given that you actually had to ask, I wonder if it wouldn't be more prudent to hire a qualified diesel mechanic to do it for you.

//greg//

EE_Bota · Dec 7, 2012

DUMMASS said:
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO REMOVE VALVE COVER & SET VALVES......I'VE GOT SPECS JUST WOULD LIKE ANY TIME SAVING & KNUCKLE SAVING REMEDIES I.E.STEPS TO KEEP FROM SCREWING UP MENTALLY AS WELL AS MECHANICLY...
...ANY HELP WILL BE MOST APPRECIATED.

Mine is a 304. One of the biggest problems I was going to have was rotating the engine to get the cam to various positions. Fortunately, my main pulley has a groove that has no belt in it. So I got my trusty Harbor Freight v-belt pulley wrench, and I was able to put the engine anywhere I wanted it.

It looks just like this one, but I didn't pay near that much for it. And that thing saved me recently on my Subaru timing belt job since I was able to hold that wrench with my left hand, and loosen and then re-tighten the pulley bolt all by myself.

V-BELT WRENCH PULLEY LOCKING TOOLS (1901A)

Another tip, there seems to be right much slop in the little caps and rods, etc in the valve linkage, so be sure to tighten the lifters until you have right descent drag on the feeler gauge. Also, get mechanics gloves to wear if you don't have them already...some of the stuff under there can be sort of sharp.

Another tip...do head bold re-torque first. On mine, If I recall correctly, I had to actually remove the cam to get to all the bolts, though yours might be different. If that is true for you, be sure to understand where the cam gets oil, and make sure those paths are all clean. I was right outside my garage, so I blasted a bit of air through them and then hit it with my oil can. Make sure none of the bushings that the rocker arms ride on are shifted.

I hope I haven't said too much that is only true for my tractor but not true for yours. I wish you good luck.

greg_g · Dec 8, 2012

EE_Bota said:
One of the biggest problems I was going to have was rotating the engine to get the cam to various positions. Fortunately, my main pulley has a groove that has no belt in it. So I got my trusty Harbor Freight v-belt pulley wrench, and I was able to put the engine anywhere I wanted it.

When it's time to adjust valve lash again, release the compression before rotating the crank pulley. Besides encountering less resistance with the pulley wrench, it's safer. No compression, no accidental starting. Use one hand on a box or open end at the fuel tank end of the compression release rock shaft, and your other hand for the pulley wrench on the crankshaft pulley nut; open compression, rotate crankshaft, close compression, adjust, repeat.

//greg//

cleat · Dec 8, 2012

Here is a link to a page describing setting valves on a Dongfeng engine

Information

Cleat

greg_g · Dec 8, 2012

Except that we're not talking about a DongFeng engine. As you likely know, a typical DF three cylinder is the ChangChai ZN390T. But the Jinma-based 204C engine is a YangDong Y380T. Besides, your link only points to generic instructions for finding TDC, which is just a preliminary step in the overall process.

//greg//

DUMMASS · Dec 10, 2012

YEPPERS THE MANUAL IS ALL WRONG SAYS SET #1 @TDC ROTATE 40 DEGREES (INSTEAD OF 240 DEGREES) AFTER TURNIG 40 DEGREES ADJUST THE OTHER TWO CYLINDERS..HA HA HA HA DOESN'T SAY WHICH IS EXHAUST OR INTAKE VALVES......AFTER MUCH SERCHING (& COMMON SENSE)I LOCATED THE CORRECT WAY TO ADJUST LASHE .....ENGINE SOUNDS NEW...I'VE LEARNED YOU CAN THROW THE MANUAL AWAY UNLESS YOU USE IT JUST FOR A REFERENCE GUIDE....OR T.P.