Mig welding aluminium

/ Mig welding aluminium #61  
If you get a chance try some ceriated (orange) tungsten. I've got to the point now that is all I use, no matter stainless steel, aluminum, or mild steel.

Thats what we use. But the color has changed, they are grey now (at least in the brand we buy).

Rob-D, I'll have to loo into that.
 
/ Mig welding aluminium #62  
LD, if you really want a brain focus, finger burner give this a shot, 28ga copper sheet. Ugh this project is killing me. Doesnt help that im using #6 solid house wire, probably around 3/32.

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/ Mig welding aluminium #63  
LD, if you really want a brain focus, finger burner give this a shot, 28ga copper sheet. Ugh this project is killing me. Doesnt help that im using #6 solid house wire, probably around 3/32.

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I don't know your application but I simply solder sweat copper sheets. I built a crook for my chimney 20 years ago and it is still in good shape with this method. If the seam is stressed I use mechanical bending to add strength.

Rob
 
/ Mig welding aluminium #64  
Rob-D said:
I don't know your application but I simply solder sweat copper sheets. I built a crook for my chimney 20 years ago and it is still in good shape with this method. If the seam is stressed I use mechanical bending to add strength.

Rob

Strictly ornamental Rob, didnt want any discoloration in the blend work. Just finished the blending and polishing about 2 minutes ago! LOL

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/ Mig welding aluminium #66  
If you get a chance try some ceriated (orange) tungsten. I've got to the point now that is all I use, no matter stainless steel, aluminum, or mild steel.

I know a lot of guys are swearing by 2% lanthanated but I haven't tried it yet.

Rob
 
/ Mig welding aluminium #67  
I could get away with red, green, orange, and gold, but I run old transformer machines at home and at work. For me it seems theres a place for all of them, because they only effect bead width. The orange ceriated is pretty durable tho as far as contamination goes, screw ups and stuff. Im gonna run a test tho with all of them, but im leaving town for a few wks starting tomorrow so ill have to wait till I get back. Bowhunting 3 states, yahooo!
 
/ Mig welding aluminium #68  
I don't remember the % of lanthanated I have. I quit using it because the tip splintered on me at high amps.:confused3:
 
/ Mig welding aluminium #69  
I have been using 1.5 Lanthinated, Blue band.. 1/16.. my welder cant go high enough to really need larger anyway. Depending on which chart you look at the 1/6 lanth. is good for almost 150 amps. But I dont think I have ever welded above 100.. Heck if it is bigger stuff , I use 7018!. I know some guys do root passes on pipe with a TIG. but I just use a TIG to repair and make little things mostly. Seems to work for me.

James K0UA
 
/ Mig welding aluminium #70  
I know some guys do root passes on pipe with a TIG.
James if you really want to improve your Tig welding skills get some 2-inch to 4-inch pipe, grind a 37 1/2-degree bevel on it, use a 3/32-inch drill bit to set the gap. Use 1/8-inch filler rod, and make 4-tacks, 3, 6, 9, and 12-O'clock. Place it on a 45-degree angle, (6-G). When in the 6-G position you have to use both hands to make the weld! On the right side of the pipe you'll hold the torch in your left hand. On the left side of the pipe you'll hold the torch in you right hand. Trust me, this will really improve your Tig welding skills. ;)
First picture is the inside of a pipe I Tig welded. Second picture is of the outside of the pipe.
 

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/ Mig welding aluminium #71  
Thats some good looking welds on the pipe Sheild, and some good advice on the honing his skills. I wish I knew how many 6G tests I have run in my lifetime, as that was my craft when in the workforce, Pipewelder, then in the late 70's when the "Greeds" came out with "multi-craft" I had to take on the fitting part also. That way they could keep the Pipefitters pay check in their pocket and work the **** out of the welder. And was just that way if you wanted to work. (unless you worked union,which I did at times but with the Boilermakers) After all that rambling, what I wanted to say was that I think over the years, I believe tig welding took the biggest toll on my eyes. I just finished building a pedistool for the fishfinder on my boat and a couple rod holders out of s/s. I noticed how strained my eyes were after trying to keep the "fish-eye" afloat in the puddle. I remember the day when that was all I seen in the puddle. That could be another reason I prefer the mig now.I retired (I thought) a couple yrs ago but kept one of my service trucks and too many of my past costomers know it. LOL Also have a question for you, that SG spool gun you have, could that be run off a 250 Ranger? I can stick weld anything over 3/13 alum. but trying to justify another spool gun only because of so many jobs I turn down on dump trucks,boats and such. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Gotta go tie things down for the blow headed for the N.C. coast, a real pain. Have a great one.
 
/ Mig welding aluminium #72  
Fish eye?! WOW! I haven't heard that term in about a hundred years.
Thanks Rodiron, I do get lucky every once in awhile, of course I don't post pictures of the welds I butcher!:laughing: I know what you mean about the eyes, not that I welded all that many years, I worked more as a rigger than a weldor. A year ago last summer my eye sight was at 20/ 85 with glasses on, then I had cataract surgery in both eyes, like being born again!:dance1:
Far as the spool gun, I couldn't tell ya! I'm a plug & play kind of guy, and when I plug if it don't play I'm mad. This is a question for yomax4, he is the resident equipment expert! If he doesn't see this thread, PM him, he is very helpful!
 
/ Mig welding aluminium
  • Thread Starter
#73  
Back with an update.

Brazing aluminium with Durafix seems to be working well. I have got the cleaning and preparation sorted and have made things that don't fall apart. Thanks for all the hints and tips.


However, the downside is that the little experiment with my MIG welder has left my MIG welder not working properly.
When I switch on the gas tap the gas flows all the time. I can weld steel but when I release the trigger the gas just keeps on flowing. I have to keep my hand on the gas tap to turn it on and off as I weld.

What might I have done?
Might it be an easy fix?

I assume that it is a fault in the solenoid valve, what triggers the valve to open/close as the valve seems to be wired to the rectifier?
Could it just be dirt in the valve?

Thank you.
 
/ Mig welding aluminium #74  
I find the best thing to do in cases like this is to isolate the components and test each one. If the valve works properly until the gun is connected.. etc. Most likely is the valve is defective, and it just chose this moment to rear it's head. Did you make any changes to the welder to accomodate welding aluminum? Change polarity, etc? As I recall you have a Lincoln.. Miller should be the same though.

Sean
 
/ Mig welding aluminium
  • Thread Starter
#75  
Cheers, I have a Cebora Boxer 135.

The fault first occurred when I converted to Ali and Argon gas.
The only changes I made were to connect the mini Argon bottle and to change the liner to a PTFE one. The gas seal on the new liner didn't fit well so I bodged it with O rings. I figured the worst that could happen would be that it leaked when in use.

I have refitted the steel liner and the original seal so that part should be ok.

With Ali and Argon the gas staying on was intermittent.
Now it is back to steel and Argon/CO2 mix the first time I used it it was fine. After that the gas stayed on and hasn't switched off since.
 
/ Mig welding aluminium #76  
I bought one awhile back. If you're anything like me, best get a notebook and start writing down the speeds for which process you're using. Otherwise I forget! :eek:

WP-250 Light Duty, Standard Speed Welding Positioner [AUT-WP-250] - $1,719.00 : Arc-Zone.com, The Welding Accessory Experts

Cool. You got one. Man I wouldn't be without mine. If its something round needed welding I use the positioner but I did mount it on a dedicated adjustable table and added a few arm supports. Getting the speeds set up right comes easy with practice.

I read that someone didn't like using the MM350P with the spool gun. Something's set up wrong if your having trouble. I use mine for thickness' over 1/4" and it welds fantastic.

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