my deck/patio project
- Thread starter Chooglin
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Chooglin
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I felt that I should explain this comment, I made in a earlier post.
we have decided to go with a roof after all,this will allow us to sit outside
while it is raining.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Sounds like your plan is evolving and you're bringing it up a notch the more you get into it!!!!!
Eddie
Eddie
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Chooglin
Gold Member
I was able to get most of the decking down, even though the weather has not been the best.I hope to get more of it done tomorrow.
This weekend I will place the beams that run parallel to the deck(provided we get no rain).
I think I will drink my morning coffee on the deck this weekend.
This weekend I will place the beams that run parallel to the deck(provided we get no rain).
I think I will drink my morning coffee on the deck this weekend.
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dieselscout80
Elite Member
I was able to get most of the decking down, even though the weather has not been the best.I hope to get more of it done tomorrow.
This weekend I will place the beams that run parallel to the deck(provided we get no rain).
I think I will drink my morning coffee on the deck this weekend.
It looks good. :thumbsup:
I'm getting ready to screw down the deck planks on my son's new tree house. What spacing did you use between your deck boards?
OP
Chooglin
Gold Member
None ,the boards will shrink as they dry out, causing gaps.If you want to gap them,about a 1/8" is all you should need.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Are you using 4x4's for the beams? What is the span between posts?
You really need to do a google search for span tables. They list the size of lumber that you need to go a certain distance to support a load. Seeing that you are in Ohio, I'm going to assume that you get snow. A flat pitch, with snow sure sounds like you want to over build, and not cut any corners on undersizing your beams.
Eddie
You really need to do a google search for span tables. They list the size of lumber that you need to go a certain distance to support a load. Seeing that you are in Ohio, I'm going to assume that you get snow. A flat pitch, with snow sure sounds like you want to over build, and not cut any corners on undersizing your beams.
Eddie
OP
Chooglin
Gold Member
This should give you a better idea of how I will be doing the roof.
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Interesting picture. I'm not an engineer, but I do have some experience and knowledg with framing and what it takes to build a structure. I don't know about snow or snow loads. Your roof should be ok, but I don't know the distance between the posts. A 6x6 is a great post, but not so much of a beam. Two 2x6's are going to be stronger, but they are only good for about 4 ft. From 4ft to 6ft, I would use two 2x8's. Eight to ten feet and I would use a pair of 2x10's.
The problem is the weight at the center of your beams and how much deflection you will get under load. The 6x6 will bend easily, and over time, it will sag. Add snow, and this just happens faster.
Your brackets should hold everything in place with enough bolts, but it's marginal at locking your structure into positon so you don't have any racking, or sway. The picture doesn't so anything to stop the structure from racking, or moving, back and forth in the direction towards the house. Diagnal bracing creates triangles at the top portion of the posts, and if big enough of a triangle, will just about stop all movement.
This only applies to a free standing structure. If you tied the roof into the existing house, then that house would lock the structure into place and you don't need as much diagnal bracing. The house itself does most of this depending on how far out from the house you go.
There isn't any advantage structually to doubleing up your 2x6 rafters. They can easily spand the distance. Depending on what you are using for a roof, or decking, your spacing can vary from a foot to several feet. More if you are using purlins, but for this size structure, there is no advantage to purlins.
Hope this helps,
Eddie
The problem is the weight at the center of your beams and how much deflection you will get under load. The 6x6 will bend easily, and over time, it will sag. Add snow, and this just happens faster.
Your brackets should hold everything in place with enough bolts, but it's marginal at locking your structure into positon so you don't have any racking, or sway. The picture doesn't so anything to stop the structure from racking, or moving, back and forth in the direction towards the house. Diagnal bracing creates triangles at the top portion of the posts, and if big enough of a triangle, will just about stop all movement.
This only applies to a free standing structure. If you tied the roof into the existing house, then that house would lock the structure into place and you don't need as much diagnal bracing. The house itself does most of this depending on how far out from the house you go.
There isn't any advantage structually to doubleing up your 2x6 rafters. They can easily spand the distance. Depending on what you are using for a roof, or decking, your spacing can vary from a foot to several feet. More if you are using purlins, but for this size structure, there is no advantage to purlins.
Hope this helps,
Eddie
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Chooglin
Gold Member
MotorSeven
Elite Member
I like your brackets, I need to make some of those for my porches.
Gary Fowler
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Its going to be interesting to see how all that rain runoff and snow coming off the roof affects your deck. Have you planned on gutters to direct the water to the ends? We dont see many sun decks in the south, most folks like to shelter their house and person from the sun as much as possible. I suppose there will be a BBQ pit on that open deck area soon after it is finished.
The deck looks nice but I do see a few issues I'd like to point out.
The header beam over the patio door appears to be a double 2x6 which could sag over time, unless steel plate was used in the middle. A double 2x8 or 2x10 header beam would have been stronger and less likely to sag.
On the deck, I noticed that the support beams are attached to the sides of the 6x6 posts. Since the deck is close to the ground, I don't imagine it will be much of an issue, but if the deck were higher, it could present a serious safety hazzard. The proper way to support a load carrying beam is to notch the support post to accept the beam so that the post carries the full load of the beam, rather than the bolts alone.
Correct:
Incorrect:
ETA: The pictures were taken from the Residential Wood Deck Construction Guide by the American Wood Council.
Residential Wood Deck Construction Guide:
http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf
The header beam over the patio door appears to be a double 2x6 which could sag over time, unless steel plate was used in the middle. A double 2x8 or 2x10 header beam would have been stronger and less likely to sag.
On the deck, I noticed that the support beams are attached to the sides of the 6x6 posts. Since the deck is close to the ground, I don't imagine it will be much of an issue, but if the deck were higher, it could present a serious safety hazzard. The proper way to support a load carrying beam is to notch the support post to accept the beam so that the post carries the full load of the beam, rather than the bolts alone.
Correct:
Incorrect:
ETA: The pictures were taken from the Residential Wood Deck Construction Guide by the American Wood Council.
Residential Wood Deck Construction Guide:
http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf
Last edited:
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
The deck looks nice but I do see a few issues I'd like to point out.
The header beam over the patio door appears to be a double 2x6 which could sag over time, unless steel plate was used in the middle. A double 2x8 or 2x10 header beam would have been stronger and less likely to sag.
On the deck, I noticed that the support beams are attached to the sides of the 6x6 posts. Since the deck is close to the ground, I don't imagine it will be much of an issue, but if the deck were higher, it could present a serious safety hazzard. The proper way to support a load carrying beam is to notch the support post to accept the beam so that the post carries the full load of the beam, rather than the bolts alone.
Correct:
Incorrect:
Where did you get these images? I've been building decks for awhile and passed inspections both here in TX and CA with bolts being used to support the beams on either side of the post. Depending on the span of the beams, and the size of the beam, decided how many and how big the bolts have to be. Usually two half inch bolts where code.
Simpson makes a bracket to supprt the beams that works too.
Having said that, I like to notch my posts at the perimter and both through the posts in the middle.
Eddie
gsganzer
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I think I agree with Eddie about concerns over the 4x4's on the top of the purgola posts. Even with a short span, a 4x4 is not very dimensionally stable when used horizontally and will sag under it's own weight as it cures. A 4x6 would be better, or the diagram with the notched beam and 2x6's or 2x8's used for the horizontal span would work.
OP
Chooglin
Gold Member
Gutter with rain barrel is the plan.
OP
Chooglin
Gold Member
The deck looks nice but I do see a few issues I'd like to point out.
The header beam over the patio door appears to be a double 2x6 which could sag over time, unless steel plate was used in the middle. A double 2x8 or 2x10 header beam would have been stronger and less likely to sag.
On the deck, I noticed that the support beams are attached to the sides of the 6x6 posts. Since the deck is close to the ground, I don't imagine it will be much of an issue, but if the deck were higher, it could present a serious safety hazzard. The proper way to support a load carrying beam is to notch the support post to accept the beam so that the post carries the full load of the beam, rather than the bolts alone.
Correct:
Incorrect:
The header beams are 6x6 beams/posts 10 foot span between posts.
In ohio,code does not require notching the post and two lag bolts per post is
code.
