Trailer Repaint On the Cheap?

[KY Gun Geek]

Got a good deal on a 14k Gatormade 24' gooseneck flatbed, about a 2005 vintage. I mention the manufacturer because it shows the results of some of the problems mentioned on this forum with Gatormades - The paint is ok in some areas, and is about 60% gone in others, and the electrical system is garbage. On top of that, this one was abused - probably overloaded judging by what's left of the bearings, and not maintained. See, a "good deal"!

Mechanical and electrical things I can handle. It is the paint I need some advice on. My experience with paint is painting houses, fences, barns, and the occasional rattle can on deck furniture.

The goosenck structure has been repainted at least once. It was a crappy job - sprayed right over the wiring and stickers (then wiped off, sort of, with a solvent to show the stickers). This area shows occasional pits - the rust is starting to come back. The beams and cross members under the trailer look like they have not been touched. There is some paint, maybe 40%. The rest is rust.

Been studying posts here and other boards, and I think the "right" way to do this thing is to sandblast it down to the metal then spray apply an epoxy primer, and some sort of a top coat. Well, don't have the gear, experience, or funds to have all that done.

Have been looking at POR, but it seems that going over old paint with POR is a bad idea. I have seen several posts from guys here that get pretty good results with rattle can products such as the rustoleum rust reformer. It seems that the old paint is going to be the real issue. I think the rust alone can be dealt with (i.e. stuff like POR, and others), but removing the old paint will be a pain.

This is a farm flatbed, used to haul hay, and a JD 5105. My goal is to make it serviceable and keep it from looking like total crap

Right now I'm thinking knock the rust and loose paint off with a needle scaler and wire brush. Rough sand the paint left over paint to roughen it up. Detergent wash things to degrease, then go back with something like the rust reformer as a primer. On the underside, a rubberized undercoating. On the side rails, some kind of rattle can enamel, and maybe the same on the neck structure.

Ideas? Thoughts?

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would use Valspar Equipment paint from TSC or a farm and fleet store.

Chris

 

[davkir]

I've wire brushed some old trailers before and painted them with Rustoleum rusty metal primer and then topcoated. I used 3" paint rollers.
I thought they looked OK. They are trailers after all.

 

[strum456]

I would use Valspar Equipment paint from TSC or a farm and fleet store.

Chris

I would put epoxy primer under it though. Even if surface prep isn't perfect, epoxy will still provide better adhesion and protection than anything else. Make sure the surface is sanded in some way, not just wire wheeled (too smooth).

 

[dodge man]

Do you have an air compressor? If not, maybe this is a good excuse to buy one. The best way is to sandblast the thing and paint it with a paint gun hooked to an air compressor. It would take a bunch of rattle cans to do a trailer. Its going to sound silly, but it wears my index finger out doing a lot of rattle can work. You may not have much experience painting with an air gun, but its quicker and easier than you think. You will spend more time on prep work and cleaning the paint gun than you will actually spend painting.

 

[tlbuser]

Its going to sound silly, but it wears my index finger out doing a lot of rattle can work.

You really need to try one of these (picture for visual reference, diff.types available)spray handles. They're not very expensive, IMO, they take rattle cans to a better level.

 

[tlbuser]

Unless you're going to do the whole trailer with sandpaper, do a little research on soda blasting. If you have a compressor, the units can be had rather inexpensively and IMO do a nicer job. Epoxy primer is a good choice too.

 

[KY Gun Geek]

I've wire brushed some old trailers before and painted them with Rustoleum rusty metal primer and then topcoated. I used 3" paint rollers.
I thought they looked OK. They are trailers after all.

Yep - they are trailers...

What did you topcoat with?

 

[Scotty Dive]

I use hammerite and apply right over rust. It is really tough stuff. I use the black hammered finish

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Hammerite-Paint-Hammered-Finish-43140/dp/B007NTNCF6/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1333481776&sr=1-10[/ame]

 

[KY Gun Geek]

So I started with thinking about sandblasting, and figured out what I would need to do that.

I have a compressor - 30 gal upright 6HP oilless. It will deliver 5.8SCFM at 90psi. Pretty much determined that it doesn't have the guts (duty cycle, flow rate etc) to either sandblast or run a spray gun.

Is there an epoxy primer in a rattle can? Should that go over the rust reformer?

 

[KY Gun Geek]

Mmmmm look what google turns up.

Aerosol 2K Epoxy Primer, Gray, 13.2 Oz - Spray Primers - Paints - 3ZHX9 : Grainger Industrial Supply

It is $35/can here, might get it other places for about $28/can

 

[dusty3030]

You've got plenty of compressor to use a spray gun. Even if you had to stop and wait a minute every now and again for air to build up it would be better and cheaper than rattle cans.

Do you have a pressure washer? With an agressive tip it will do a pretty good job of taking off old paint / light rust.

 

[KY Gun Geek]

You've got plenty of compressor to use a spray gun. Even if you had to stop and wait a minute every now and again for air to build up it would be better and cheaper than rattle cans.

Do you have a pressure washer? With an agressive tip it will do a pretty good job of taking off old paint / light rust.

Do have a pressure washer - didn't think about that.

I have done a bunch of it with a needle scaler. It takes of the chunks, but leaves a lot of dust behind. Pressure washer may be faster...

 

[JESSE1]

About five years ago I removed the floor and had my flatbed gooseneck sandblasted inside and out. I primed with Rustoeum rusty metal primer and then painted with black Industrial Rustoleum. Bought the paint from Lowe's. It's held up very well and except for the expense of sandblasting didn't cost a lot to paint the trailer. Here's a recent picture of the trailer. I may repaint this spring but this time I'm going to paint it smoke grey.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would put epoxy primer under it though. Even if surface prep isn't perfect, epoxy will still provide better adhesion and protection than anything else. Make sure the surface is sanded in some way, not just wire wheeled (too smooth).

Agreed.

Chris

 

[KY Gun Geek]

Agreed.

Chris

Ok so process would be:

-scale/pressure wash
-light sand (I'm thinking 60grit on an orbital sander)
-epoxy primer from a can
-some kind of top coat

This means i'm applying the primer directly to the surface that is combo rusty steel and old sanded paint)?

 

[KY Gun Geek]

About five years ago I removed the floor and had my flatbed gooseneck sandblasted inside and out. I primed with Rustoeum rusty metal primer and then painted with black Industrial Rustoleum. Bought the paint from Lowe's. It's held up very well and except for the expense of sandblasting didn't cost a lot to paint the trailer. Here's a recent picture of the trailer. I may repaint this spring but this time I'm going to paint it smoke grey.

Was the paint from a spray gun or a can?

 

[JESSE1]

I bought the paint in gallon buckets and used a spray gun. The industrial rusoleum is thinned with acetone. I primed and painted inside and outside before I installed a new floor. The Rustoleum has held up well, no chips or flaking. It's weathered some but not as bad as I expected.

 

[newbury]

Slight thread hijack

For moderately small projects (example 48" box blade that only needs 1/4 of it rust/paint removed) which do y'all think would be a better tool - sandblasting or needle scaler?

 

[mbrule]

I have done a couple of trailers over. I also work on classic cars on the side. I have the equipment to sandblast / prep / paint anything from trailers to small parts to show cars.

You DO NOT have the equipment to sandblast it. You will kill that compressor!

If I were you, I would:

1. pressure wash
2. clean with prep solvent, lacquer thinner, or mineral spirits
3. DA as best you can with 180 or 220 (60 is way too course)
4. Use a course wire brush in a drill where DA won't fit
5. repeat 2 (I like lacquer thinner best). Use a WET rag followed immediately by dry.
6. prime
7. paint

I am a big fan of Rustoleum, sticks well, inexpensive, somewhat durable, AND EASY to TOUCH UP. You could use rusty metal primer and satin black paint (gloss will show more of the imperfections and sand lines). It could be brushed, sprayed with airless sprayer, thinned and sprayed with cheap automotive spray gun, or rattle canned. All have advantages and disadvantages.

You could also buy some Epoxy primer and the mixers, an automotive spray gun (your compressor will work hard, but should do it, (use disposable water filter at gun). Then use a decent Urethane paint or the paint mentioned above.

my .02

"on the cheap" I would use Rustoleum all the way....