BX25 GrappleOmatic

[Artisan]

I threw a piece of 3/4" convoluted tube over the wire that
runs up the joystick so branches don't snag it.
I think I will get some mini zip ties for that, as well as other places
before were done. Additionally I added 1/4" convoluted tubing over the wire at
the FEL Disconnect area and up to the Deutsch connector. You must take
care to zip tie this line up and away from the piviot point where I point
if you choose ot take the same path.

This first picture shows the LONG distance I must traverse w/ the hoses to feed
the grapple's cylinder. I am considering maybe making a short hard pipe
area welded to the bucket so the two hoses would come from the Fasse
Valve ( Green ) to the bucket then another set of hoses to the cylinder.
The jury is still out here. I am all ears if any seasoned pros have any quality
input as to how to best and cleanly do this plumbing. There is much to take
into consideration. I betya there is a widget or 2 or 3 that is perfect for this
scenario, I have a couple ideas, I would love to read other opinions !

PS, the noose, a halloween prop, was holding the buket while I had the hoses off
for those that noticed. It's only a real noose if it has 13 loops!

 

[SPYDERLK]

A very neat job mounting the grapple base and auxiliary hook points. The open section of the bucket is always the weak point and the grapple is capable of applying huge twisting forces to deflect it. Most bucket tops end with the metal folded downward an inch or so, and perhaps then bent back. This strengthens the top edge some with each bend, but usually stops short of closing the box section for max available strength. Your mounting plate angle metal does not add appreciably to the strength of the front edge where the bucket is weakest. On a BX25 this might be OK, but I look at the transition at the outer bolts, from the very stiff grapple base, onto the front edge. ... I would be worried about your bucket bending here. When you hook up the grapple - before you actually use it, try putting a block of wood for the grapple tips to clamp down on. Carefully clamp. Does the top bow at all? Consider that forces in use, say pulling with the jaws clamped, or bumping something with jaws unclamped, could easily double this effect and more. You may find you need to reinforce the very front of the center portion of the bucket with a small section of hi strength steel out to a few inches beyond the stiffness transition at the end of the grapple base. Going all the way to the edges of the bucket would be a waste ... and likely to not be as strong, while adding excess weight.
...larry

more pics...

 

[Artisan]

THANK YOU LARRY AND NOTED...

I will find a picture of a stock BX25 bucket so you can see what it is we
attached to. I think I am following you, should after I show you a picture
of a stock BX25 top edge of bucket, and after I do a test,
if we really feel we have a problem I think it can remedy it by welding a piece
of angle, with the V pointing down, stitch welding two edges under the bucket,
under the top edge as you suggest. Time will tell.

The owners of Greens-Machine.com suggested teh same things to me when
I asked him why the grapple base was so massive...

 

[Artisan]

Well, it is a little hard to see larry but that front edge is a radius edge, it curls "up", if you will. I uniwelded the whole front edge. We shall see.
Of corse I cut off the "Bucket Level Indicator" that you see in this picture.

Here is another picture for the quality www.bxpanded.com 's hooks that they sell that fit just perfect into that radius' front edge;

And then here is a picture of how my 3.5" x 3.5" x .250" Angle connects
to the front edge;

I'll betya were OK, simply because the BX25 does not have monster power, I
will be vigilant upon first tests, THANK YOU Larry.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Well, it is a little hard to see larry but that front edge is a radius edge, it curls "up", if you will. I uniwelded the whole front edge. We shall see.
I'll betya were OK, simply because the BX25 does not have monster power, I
will be vigilant upon first tests, THANK YOU Larry.

Yes. What you did is good for an upturned front edge. I had envisioned a downturn variety and based my concern on that. Youre probably pretty safe with what you did. Do look for any sign of the bolts dimpling the angle metal upward in continued use.
larry

 

[Artisan]

Much to my surprise my fittings arrived today, not bad, out on Friday and here today...

The OE curl cylinder got modified, we removed the straight 1/4"MNPTx-6MJIC
fitting and replaced it w/ same size in a 90 aiming at the left side of the tractor.

 

[Artisan]

The Fasse Valve was bolted to my clamp mount, fittings tightened up, hoses
were cut. I put on my own crimp ends for the first time using a
Weatherhead Hydraulic crimper, all within .007 of .570 per manufacturer
specs for the hose and fittings used. I need to get a Deutsch crimper
and shorten the harness, till I do I wrapped the excess wire around the unit.

I tucked the hoses in towards center.

We looped the grapple hoses thru the bucket curl cylinder pin-mount, down
they went to a neutral pivot are then back up to the grapple cylinder.

...and Viola! A BX25 w/ log munchin' GRAPPLE WooWHO! I am stoked!
Not a leak one, and no over tightened JIC fittings either!

Just more pics, different views;

So it is up and running and initial tests proved it works GREAT!

We need to sleeve / do some hose protection at the front where the grapple is
and wrap the hoses w/ nylon sleeve where there rubbing. I do not know if I need to do
anything more to the hoses. Everything seems to have found a home
naturally. I will have the wife work the controls and I will watch things
and then I may change my mind, I kinda doubt it though, time will tell.

I will make a material list w/ part numbers and hose end to end lengths.
before long for others.

I am SO GLAD I went with the Fasse Valve. It is a very nice unit, it falls
into place nicely on the BX25.

 

[Wnc3]

I threw a piece of 3/4" convoluted tube over the wire that
runs up the joystick so branches don't snag it.
I think I will get some mini zip ties for that, as well as other places
before were done. Additionally I added 1/4" convoluted tubing over the wire at
the FEL Disconnect area and up to the Deutsch connector. You must take
care to zip tie this line up and away from the piviot point where I point
if you choose ot take the same path.

This first picture shows the LONG distance I must traverse w/ the hoses to feed
the grapple's cylinder. I am considering maybe making a short hard pipe
area welded to the bucket so the two hoses would come from the Fasse
Valve ( Green ) to the bucket then another set of hoses to the cylinder.
The jury is still out here. I am all ears if any seasoned pros have any quality
input as to how to best and cleanly do this plumbing. There is much to take
into consideration.

Great job thus far!

I think you are correct, weld 2 nipples to the bucket to make a union.
Run 4 shorter hoses instead of 2 long ones. Consider using swivels on the end of each hose.
If you wreck a hose, it will be less to replace a short one. Buy some plastic spiral wrap for the hoses for protection and abrasion resistance (hydraulic shops have it) You can put both hoses in a larger wrap or run individually in a smaller one.
Good luck!

 

[Wnc3]

While I was fumbling through my post you had already beat me to the punch...
Looking good!