Ideas for felling this tree

[Tollster]

I have a hanger I want to remove, but it canterlevering on the root ball, off a steep drop off. I could use some ideas on how to get it dow with my husky with bringing myself down.

View from the top,it has 2 main leads,hanging in the hemlock, I am not sure if I should cut both off at the base, or one at a time. I am afraid the root ball will spring back into place,but think I can stand on the side of the ball. If I take one at a time,it could sping back, then I will have over head debris.

I think I can stand on the ledge seen in this picture to the right of the ball.

I think if it where to roll,it would roll to the left since the hemlock its hung on has the trunk to the right.

Not sure how to go about this one as it has at least 3 ways it can take me out and kind of new at clearing the property.

 

[bcp]

I think I would winch it toward the base of the neighboring tree and let it fall.

One of these has been very useful in the 4 ton size.
http://www.offroaders.com/directory/products/Maasdam-Come-Along.htm

 

[teg]

Do you or a friend have a gas powered pole saw? Reach out and cut it...

Boy, I would think that be fun to take down... in a weird sick way :laughing:

Pretty sure the root ball will settle back, cutting either half. I would not cut this without someone able to call 911. Another option do you have access to a come-a-long? Like this Wyeth-Scott Company More Power Puller

 

[jcummins]

My first thought, can you get a tractor above it, and pull with chain on the base to dislodge the base and let it finish it's fall?

 

[RJD2516]

boy you got a tough one there. I like the winch idea. if you have a winch.

If you cut off one stem, I don't believe it will come back on you. It's to far over. And if it did come back, it will do it real slow. I would cut the lowest stem first, not the top. As it starts to bend down, you will get a real good idea if it is going to snap back. You could tie off the top stem then cut off the bottom. Either way, this is a dangerous situation.

Another thought, let mother nature take care of this one.

 

[20 20]

cut stuff like that a lot, not a big deal, I really can't explain what to do. My best advice is if your comfortable cutting then go for it. If your uncomfortable then find something else to do. There are many different ways to handle those trees, you could use a winch hook a tractor etc... IMHO from what I'm seeing in the pictures a couple of simple cuts with a saw and they'd be down.

 

[Tollster]

I am getting a pole saw this week for my birthday. Do ya'll think I should delimb it,of go for broke on the whole base from 12-15 feet away?

I like the tractor idea,but the tree could actually pull me and the tractor I am afraid. It weighs 1600 pounds. I do have a come along,but not sure of the load rating and really have no idea on how much this thing weighs. it has at least a 20 fall to go, and if it rolls..even further..

If I use the pole saw, any ideas on the cuts or back cuts? I am pretty sure the root ball will roll back as the roots are shallow and on the sides, the whole ball is on a flat..bear flat rock from the ledge. They have to weigh 500 or more pounds. its at least 5' in diameter and the largest part of the stump is about 18"-22" across.

Worst part is I noramlly work alone,but like ya'llsaid maybe my wife should come up.its about an hour from the nearest hospital.

So I have a comealong, a tractor, a polesaw and a husky with an 18" bar. ya think the pole saw could save some face...litterally? Or something else?

 

[magicheater]

cut stuff like that a lot, not a big deal, I really can't explain what to do. My best advice is if your comfortable cutting then go for it. If your uncomfortable then find something else to do. There are many different ways to handle those trees, you could use a winch hook a tractor etc... IMHO from what I'm seeing in the pictures a couple of simple cuts with a saw and they'd be down.

I agree! You can "feel" your cut through the trunk as it begins to move and use the remainder of the trunk as a hinge, and ease it down.

 

[s219]

If it's hung up solidly, I would use a cable to pull it free from the other trees (working from a safe distance of course, and use a pulley block to change direction if you can). You really don't want to get near the tree with a saw if it is hung up on another tree like that, except in a few cases (which I can't evaluate from here).

If it's not hung up, but rather, just dangling cantilevered from the root ball, then I would use a Coos Bay cut to bring it down gently and let the rootball ride back down the other way. If you use a traditional cut, it's going to barber-chair on you and all sorts of bad things could happen.

Proper evaluation is hard to do over the internet, so maybe ask for someone who can give you an opinion on the ground. Really, you need to figure out how the tree is supported and loaded before deciding what to do.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I am getting a pole saw this week for my birthday. Do ya'll think I should delimb it,of go for broke on the whole base from 12-15 feet away?

I like the tractor idea,but the tree could actually pull me and the tractor I am afraid. It weighs 1600 pounds. I do have a come along,but not sure of the load rating and really have no idea on how much this thing weighs. it has at least a 20 fall to go, and if it rolls..even further..

If I use the pole saw, any ideas on the cuts or back cuts? I am pretty sure the root ball will roll back as the roots are shallow and on the sides, the whole ball is on a flat..bear flat rock from the ledge. They have to weigh 500 or more pounds. its at least 5' in diameter and the largest part of the stump is about 18"-22" across.

Worst part is I noramlly work alone,but like ya'llsaid maybe my wife should come up.its about an hour from the nearest hospital.

So I have a comealong, a tractor, a polesaw and a husky with an 18" bar. ya think the pole saw could save some face...litterally? Or something else?

This looks tricky but not impossible. Your BX will not be of much help except to drag the poles out after they are seperated from the stump. Push a bunch of dirt under the open side of the stump to stabilize it so it does not teeter. It looks like the upper trunk is not hung up in the adjacent tree. Good place for that new pole saw as you are a long way from the ground. Cut a notch 1/3 way through on the top then cut from the bottom. The bottom cut will open as the pole comes down. That is the easy one. I would try pulling the root ball around after relieving some of the weight with dropping the upper piece and see it it can be dislodged from the hemlock. Smaller hemlock branchs break off pretty easy. If not cut that piece same way with that pole saw. Most of the weight is toward the stump so it should drop straight down. Then you will probably drag it out of the hemlock crotch using the BX and/or a heavy come-along. I always use a chain type rather than cable, less dangerous. Also use chains and/or web straps for long pulls also. HF was a 2 ton under $100. That stump is a dynamite job if you want to remove it, or else a lot of cutting small pieces with a chain saw, and probably several chain sharpenings. You may be able to drag it once you get a lite as possible and you can get good traction with the BX.

Do yopu have a neighbor or buddy with a tracked rig? Or, rent one for a day. That is the real answer, just drag it all out where it can be worked on safer.

Ron

 

[Piperflyer]

Can you get a load of dirt in behind it to keep the root ball from coming back. Tough to tell by the picture angle. If not; you got to know somebody who is crazy enough to just cut them.

 

[powerpace]

Any or all of the below if you don't want a tractor or come along involved.

1. I don't believe your wrong cutting the bottom trunk first. You can feel it out.

2. If the root ball is springy. Cut a short length of another downed tree and place it behind the root ball to prevent it springing back.

3. Cut some of the feeder roots off the root ball to weaken the hold. You will be able to tell when it becomes more solid.

This situation is not too uncommon around here. The difference is the size of the tree. The feller would cut the bottom first.

 

[jimmyj]

Any or all of the below if you don't want a tractor or come along involved.

1. I don't believe your wrong cutting the bottom trunk first. You can feel it out.

2. If the root ball is springy. Cut a short length of another downed tree and place it behind the root ball to prevent it springing back.

3. Cut some of the feeder roots off the root ball to weaken the hold. You will be able to tell when it becomes more solid.

This situation is not too uncommon around here. The difference is the size of the tree. The feller would cut the bottom first.

Exactly what I'd do. I respect 20 20's comments though. Don't do it if you aren't comfortable.

 

[sixdogs]

This is a bad tree to cut and lots of things could go wrong. If it were mine I would also want to "do something" but prior experience would probably cause me to leave it be and let nature work at it for a year or two. Plan "B" would be the a bigger tractor and trying to tug it down. This tree has different forces tugging and twisting. When I cut things like this, over the decades, I always had my wife in the 4WD waiting close by and pointed towards the road just in case.

 

[MossRoad]

You could just treat it like a branch on a tree and do a "three cut" like this:

We have a Poulan Pro that we bought as a combo pack. It had the pole saw and weed eater attachments bundled together. It works fine. It is heavy. As others have mentioned, with any pole saw, it is easy to pinch a blade. I use the three cut method for trimming all branches with my pole saw and chain saw, too, for that matter.

Here's a picture that explains it. Not only does it eliminate most pinches, it keeps the branches from pulling down bark and skinning up the tree. Check it out. Try it a few times. It works great.

In a nut shell, you cut through 1/3 of the branch from the underside of the branch about a foot out from the trunk. Then you cut outwards of the first cut about 2" all the way through. It snaps the branch at the first cut and there is no bark or strip of wood that pulls down the underside of the branch. That's usually what hangs a branch. Finally, you make a final cut near the trunk, but not into the collar. That 1 foot piece drops right off. Leaving the collar in tack lets the tree heal much faster and cleaner.

Click this bar to view the full image.

 

[tractchores]

I've had to deal with similar things a few times and there are a few ways to go about it. First you want a good understanding of the forces at work and guess what they'll do if its released from the root ball. For instance if its hung at the tip of the tree then the butt should settle down and may roll, if its more towards the middle it could lift which would be very dangerous. The root ball will settle back down, but likely only after the second tree. I would recommend using a come along and a heft chain after cutting the bases to pull it down. When you cut the bases you can cut a notch just like felling a tree to try and encourage it to fall down in a certain direction or try to get it to roll out of the hemlock. You can use the still attached tree for roll protection if its positioned right. Just remember the notch goes on the top of the log since it will fall down and hinge at the top (that's important or you'll get your saw stuck and have a seriously dangerous situation). A pole saw might be a safe way to make that final cut. Once its detached pulling it will be pretty easy. Good luck!

 

[radioman]

Just likee every body is saying- come along and wire rope or chains.

I'd slide the wire ropee or chains as high as you can make it and pull it sideways far away enough to make it roll off hung up tree and fall .