yanmar1948
New member
I would like to know how to determine if the battery charge system is working properly on a 2010.........
Insurance Battery charging
- Thread starter yanmar1948
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brokenknee
Platinum Member
If you have a volt meter, connect the volt meter to the battery, start the tractor, turn the lights on and check to see it the voltage is over 12.6 volts. I can't remember the top end but I don't think it should be over 15 volts.
This will let you know if your alternator is putting out enough voltage. It is a cheap man way to check.
OP
yanmar1948
New member
thanks for the advice.....sounds easy enough
nasty looking scar you have there !
nasty looking scar you have there !
brokenknee
Platinum Member
Dosn't look so bad now, that happened about 3 1/2 years ago.
clemsonfor
Super Member
You dont need to turn on your light but you can.
Test your battery voltage with the tractor not running. Lets say its 12.67V. Now start the tractor and let it idle for a minute. Now test the battery voltage. Anything more than 12.67 means its charging. You probly will get anything from 13-1.7volts or so at idle and when you idle it up to working rpms you should see something closer to 14 volts, anything less dosent mean its broken just the system is a little weak, the only problem would be if you start and stop it a lot at night with the lights on (most of us never use the lights). But remember its a 30 yr old charging system, anything north of 13volts is probly fine and your charging your battery with it, just not factory specs.
Test your battery voltage with the tractor not running. Lets say its 12.67V. Now start the tractor and let it idle for a minute. Now test the battery voltage. Anything more than 12.67 means its charging. You probly will get anything from 13-1.7volts or so at idle and when you idle it up to working rpms you should see something closer to 14 volts, anything less dosent mean its broken just the system is a little weak, the only problem would be if you start and stop it a lot at night with the lights on (most of us never use the lights). But remember its a 30 yr old charging system, anything north of 13volts is probly fine and your charging your battery with it, just not factory specs.
BobRip
Elite Member
By running the lights you are testing that there is significant output. There partial failures that will not show up if not loaded. Also you should raise the engine to above idle during the load test. There is a failure mode where the alternator will charge, but run the battery down when the engine is not running. With the engine not running and key off and all accessories off, lift the negative battery lead and measure the current between this lead and the negative battery terminal. It should be less that 10 mAmps. This is a very rare problem and you can damage your meter. If your battery runs down while sitting, you might want to check this. I am probably giving you too much information.
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A fully charged battery should have 12.6 volts, after siting for a while.
If your multimeter has a min max function it should have a minimum 9.6 volts as a low point. If not the battery is either not fully charged or is sulphated.
After starting with the engine at about 1200 rpm and every accessory on after 5 minutes of running the system should be charging at above 14 volts.
It takes 13.8 volts to fully charge a battery.
The most important thing to keep a battery and charging system healthy is clean terminals. Di-electric grease is cheap and great stuff. Doing a voltage drop test is a good idea, on the positive and negative sides.
If you have a multiple battery system, it is a very good idea to separate them and with a regulated charger, charge them.
I have a 5 year old Duramax and one battery was low enough it took two hours to charge it at 10 amps. 20 minutes for the other one.
If your multimeter has a min max function it should have a minimum 9.6 volts as a low point. If not the battery is either not fully charged or is sulphated.
After starting with the engine at about 1200 rpm and every accessory on after 5 minutes of running the system should be charging at above 14 volts.
It takes 13.8 volts to fully charge a battery.
The most important thing to keep a battery and charging system healthy is clean terminals. Di-electric grease is cheap and great stuff. Doing a voltage drop test is a good idea, on the positive and negative sides.
If you have a multiple battery system, it is a very good idea to separate them and with a regulated charger, charge them.
I have a 5 year old Duramax and one battery was low enough it took two hours to charge it at 10 amps. 20 minutes for the other one.
nazbom2
Bronze Member
I just got done with an alternator failure and replacement. I had the typ of failure that started with the alternator charging some and draining battery during down time then breaking down to not charghing at all. I used a multimeter and jumped tractor to start, un hooked battery and turned on all lights, they didn;t work so it confirmed my bad alternator. Once i replaced alternator (and battery) I tested battery voltage unloaded, 12.6 +- V, then started tractor and tested battery and alternator output post (13.47 +- V) so that told me it was charging as it was a higher voltage. Then I disconnected battery turned on all lights (which showed alternator was working) and tested the output, 13.4 +-V.
Not saying it was perfect but after checking my wiring and old alternator to confirm it worked for me.
Not saying it was perfect but after checking my wiring and old alternator to confirm it worked for me.
BobRip
Elite Member
There is some risk of alternator damage from running an alternator without a battery connected. It is not recommended.
nazbom2
Bronze Member
I agree with that and it only ran for long enough to detach and reattach the neg cable to the bettery. For my knowledge do you know the reason as to why not to run the motor, hence the alternator, without the battery connected? I remember as a kid my dad and others always saying to disconnect the battery momentarily as an alternator test.
jonyyuma
Elite Member
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Alternator charging circuits have been changed for some time now. The regulator has a microchip in it now to replace the old magnetic points and fields. Any small short or crossed cables and you have a chance of blowing the charging circuit. They are alot more reliable than the old types? Plus the chance of burning a diode or the recifier bridge?
BobRip
Elite Member
My educated guess is electrical voltage spikes which could damage the alternator and any sensitive electronics components in the electrical system. This can happen very quickly. I need to do more research on this.
I did some research. The act of disconnecting and/or reconnecting the cable can generate spikes which can damage the alternator. You may get lucky, or not.
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nazbom2
Bronze Member
Good to know I will stop that practice as I don't need to be buying any parts unnecessarily and especially if it was my fault!
