3-Point Hitch Bx2660 3PH & Taillight

[Adryan]

Hi, just recieved my 2nd hand bx2660 with only 28hours on the clock!

I have 2 small problems with it, perhaps someone can point me in the right direction..

First the 3ph doen't lower enough for me. Is it possible to rotate the uperlink arms a bit (they are on a splines shaft) so the lower link arms will drop more?

Second, my taillights don't work. Headlights are o.k. Where should i look?

Thanx
Adryan

 

[CHDinCT]

I don't believe the upper 3PH arms are designed to be rotated as you're asking. Make sure your 3PH rate of drop dial (between your legs under the seat) is open enough. Also, the 3PH doesn't always drop fully without weight on it, so you might have to step on it to get it to move fully down. If none of that works, you might consider drilling a second set of holes in the lower 3PH arms and moving the vertical lift links a inch or so closer in to the BX rear end. I had my dealer do this for me as part of the sales deal since a few of my implements require the 3PH to drop lower. Here's a pic of what I'm referring to - the inner holes allow the hitch to drop a few inches lower.

 

[Leejohn]

I would not change the upper link arms, even if that can be done. Do like CHDinCT said 1st about drilling the extra holes.
You can make sure the front balls in the lower links turn real easy. The lower link arms have to twist when going up and down. When you go up you have hyd pis and it well twist the ball to one side, but going down no psi and the lower link well not twist and it well not go down.
I had to take the lower links off of mine and sand the heck out of them. They were locked up bad and that is why CHDinCT said you have to stand on them. Mine goes all the way down now by themself and I did drill the holes.

 

[oldballs]

Good info from CHD and Lee. As to the tail lights...look under the back fenders. The connections under there might be your answer.

 

[oldballs]

BTW, if the 3 pt is working properly, for what usage or attachment did you find it necessary to drill those holes in the lower arms to get a lower position? So far, my plow and rear blade function okay without lowering them further.

 

[Adryan]

I need to lower the lowerlink arms for using my pallet fork. The end of the lowerlink arms drops till 12" measured from the bottom. I don't want to drill holes because you'll loose lifting power when shifting the arms.
If I rotate the upperlink arms the lifting power will be the same.

I've checked the connectors on the short wires coming directly out of the taillight. They seem to be ok.
Is there another connector hidden somewere that might cause the problem?
Don't know if the "central wire" has some connectors in it?

I also want to install some front weight. Can they be attached easy or do I need some brackets? p.s. I have a front guard

 

[Leejohn]

I also moved my lift links fwd on my lower links because I want my trailer hitch to go all the way to the ground. I have a couple other things the pins set low to the ground. I couldn't tell any differents in the power of the 3pt.
That 3pt just might lift more then I would want to lift and move around with it. If for some reason you do move the lift links in some, if you hook the top link hight around 14" high up from the lower link pins then you can lift the attachment as high as you want. True cat1 is 16", also around the 14" the attachment well come up the same angle that you have it set at.

 

[zoltanthegypsy]

...
I also want to install some front weight. Can they be attached easy or do I need some brackets? p.s. I have a front guard

For what it's worth...

I went the factory route for front weights on my BX24. Mounting the weight bracket requires removing the guard. The supplied weight anchor bolts (actually the nuts w/welded "L" pieces) didn't fit the supplied bracket. Manufacturing change that didn't get applied to all parts, I guess. The dealer had to modify the bracket w/a grinder. The bracket has to come off to put the loader on. Etc, etc, etc...

Oh, and serious $$$$ All in all, a major PITA. And this was because I went factory to insure compatibility. Grrrr,

Z.

[edit] A couple of pix - note the loader is not attached.

 

[Adryan]

=> zoltanthegypsy

thanx for the picture! didn't know they would take so much space! The total length will be to long for me (have to turn in tight spots)
I thing I better build a steel box, fill it with lead and mount it under the grill.

After first day of playing, cleaned the tractor with water but......a lot of mess under the rubber floor "carpet".
Can I just pull it of the tractor and re-use the plastic inserts ? or what?

 

[zoltanthegypsy]

...
thanx for the picture! didn't know they would take so much space!
...

Yeah, in hindsight, I should have kept the smaller suitcase weights from my Deere 425 (that I gave away) and just hung them off the frame. They don't have the long "tails" that the Kubota weights have.

OTOH, the Deere-style weights are a little lighter, and without the tails, don't have the same leverage.

As to length and tight spaces: the Kubota weights are shorter than my loader That's why I got weights - so I could run a tiller with the loader off.

Z.