Toplink Extending a hydraulic top link

[tpulley]

I went to the local ASC office today and bought a cat 1 hydraulic top link, hoses and fittings.

I put all the pieces together and boy is this sweet. My only concern is I really want two or so inches of travel more from it. Other than going to their cat 2 that gives me the two inches any suggestions how I can get there.

Terry

 

[gwdixon]

If you don't weld yourself, take it to a welding shop and have them cut off the ball on the tractor side (cylinder end) and weld in a 2" or 3" piece of the same size metal to the cylinder end. Then weld the ball back onto that.

They may even weld in a heavier piece because it would take the side forces even better.

You must have a Pat's Easy Change. I did the same thing on another tractor before getting the "insert" style Pat's on the M7040.

 

[tpulley]

That's a good idea. I do weld some, but I don't have anything to cut it with, well... maybe its soft enough to cut with a hack saw. I will poke around and look for some extra metal.

 

[gwdixon]

That's a good idea. I do weld some, but I don't have anything to cut it with, well... maybe its soft enough to cut with a hack saw. I will poke around and look for some extra metal.

A hacksaw will work or maybe a Sawsall with a metal cutting blade. Be sure to grind an angle on the weld areas to get 100% penetration. Like this: >< Make several passes alternating on both sides to prevent warping.

You don't want it coming apart at an awkward moment.

Oh, and their Cat 2 hydraulic top link can be bushed to Cat 1 if you want to go that route. It is a little heavier duty, also.

 

[allen in texas]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/190933-follow-up-my-thread-about.html

Here's what I did.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I went to the local ASC office today and bought a cat 1 hydraulic top link, hoses and fittings.

I put all the pieces together and boy is this sweet. My only concern is I really want two or so inches of travel more from it. Other than going to their cat 2 that gives me the two inches any suggestions how I can get there.

Terry

Do you want it 2 or so inches longer, or 2 or so inches more travel? NOTHING that you do will get you ANY more travel. If you want more travel you need to get a different top link.

 

[J_J]

MtnViewRanc is right. The extension is only moving the starting point. If the stroke is OK the extension will work. If you make a threaded extension, it could be variable.

 

[tpulley]

It is more correct to say I need to move the starting point as opposed to changing the stroke. The first 3-4 inches or so are not being used right now.

Allen in TX has the exact idea I want to accomplish. I am now looking around for the rod/pipe to make the extension.

I am thinking my mig welder should work. What do you guys think?

 

[Jesse11]

so good luck for you!

 

[gwdixon]

It is more correct to say I need to move the starting point as opposed to changing the stroke. The first 3-4 inches or so are not being used right now.

Allen in TX has the exact idea I want to accomplish. I am now looking around for the rod/pipe to make the extension.

I am thinking my mig welder should work. What do you guys think?

It depends on how the shaft end is configured now.
>If it is a piece of thick flat bar then splice it with the same.
>If it is round, splice it with round as did Allen in TX.
>If you can get away with not cutting the ball flush to the cylinder it would be easier and stronger to splice in a matching piece with a 100% weld.

Personally, I would not use MIG. It will stick it together but penetration is limited with the heavier materials.

It will take a (open) root pass and several cover passes on both sides of the spliced shaft. This is best done with stick.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

It depends on how the shaft end is configured now.
>If it is a piece of thick flat bar then splice it with the same.
>If it is round, splice it with round as did Allen in TX.
>If you can get away with not cutting the ball flush to the cylinder it would be easier and stronger to splice in a matching piece with a 100% weld.

Personally, I would not use MIG. It will stick it together but penetration is limited with the heavier materials.

It will take a (open) root pass and several cover passes on both sides of the spliced shaft. This is best done with stick.

Really sort of depends on the size of his MIG. A typical home owner unit would not be the thing to use.

 

[gwdixon]

Really sort of depends on the size of his MIG. A typical home owner unit would not be the thing to use.

To the OP, tpulley:

After you decide what you want to do you might want to run it by the guys in the "Welding Forum" on TBN. Lots of farmer/weldors over there.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

To the OP, tpulley:

After you decide what you want to do you might want to run it by the guys in the "Welding Forum" on TBN. Lots of farmer/weldors over there.

Very smart thing to do. Great suggestion. :thumbsup:

 

[CarterandCarter]

we do that kind of thing here also, I weld on the cylinders and help out people who want to extend there cylinders

 

[Glen Watkins]

Just a guess on my part but the Op probably wouldn't be going through any of this if he had done business with either of the last two posters! MtnViewRanch/CarterandCarter