Pat's Easy Change Vs Quick Hitch

[JB4310]

Wow Alot of Pat's supporters here, I'm kinda surprised.

Never used them and I wont criticize them since I think they are a sponsor/advertiser here. But I have a couple of QH's and wouldn't be with out one. Mod your implements once (if needed) and never get off the seat again, what could be better than that?

Yes a HTL is a great complement to a QH but not necessary. I have an imatch and a HF model. I've got a hodge podge of 8 implements and have all of them set up for QH. Even though I've never used Pat's, I have seen them and knowing what a QH will do, I am not impressed with the Easy Change method, nothing I see makes me want to change.
I can not think of a single negative to using a QH, all positive.

JMO


JB

 

[Gale Hawkins]

JB I had misgivings about ordering Pat's Easy Change system but with nothing standard equipment wise other than a new 8' Bush Hog brand box blade I was certain from posts here that the more conventional quick hitches would not work out well on our place.

Having huge physical limitations from Ankylosing Spondylitis the other QH systems that I looked at blocked my access to connect the PTO where Pat's system enhanced my access.

The tractor I installed Pat's quick hitch system (cuts connect time by many times) is a 1976 60HP MF265. The bush hog is so heavy I can not use it without front end weights and I was very concerned when turning on steep hillsides the flopping weight would destroy Pat's quick hitch. It turned out to be one very strong hitching system after two seasons.

As KU Gator points out quickly hitching to heavy unlevel equipment is a snap. Well actually two snaps.

While I think one should buy the quick hitch system that one perfers I know I can not knock your hitching system until I try it. I think if you had some experience with Pat's system you post might be different. :thumbsup:

greenwellmfg - Home

When they say, "No other quick hitch gives you this much flexibility." I expect it is true. For the person who needs flexibility I expect Pat's QH option will win out most of the time. For the person with all new equipment designed to work with one QH option flexibility is not needed.

The safety value of Pat's QH option is very important at our place.

 

[JB4310]

Gale,

You do bring up one negative of the QH type I have.

The PTO shaft issue, Only one of my 3pt implements is pto powered. and you are correct, access is restricted. I rarely ever need my PTO generator so I forgot about it.

So I stand corrected there can be negatives with QH's.

Still like it more for my needs. but of course every-one's needs differ

JB.

 

[k0ua]

I have the Carter and Sons like Nick. Mine came with some shims to prevent them flopping around. They are cheaper, and simpler than the Pats and do not add the 3 or 4 inches to the PTO length. But as they sit on top of the lower links, they are 2 or 3 inches higher in the hookup point. That has never been a problem with me so far. I use an 8 inch Heavy duty bungee cord to keep the lower links together and adjust the turnbuckles if need be between implement hookups. Are they as good as an I-match with carefully matched implements? I doubt it, but they are a heck of a lot better than the standard lower links. Really saves on the kicking, beating, sweating, and cussing. Check em out here.:

Welcome to CARTER AND SON'S TOOL AND DIE

James K0UA

 

[deere5105]

After looking at all of these and hearing the comments, it really seems the PEC is the most flexible, universal set up. This seems it would simplify the hardest part of the job in getting the bottom links on the pins. The top is really not a big deal.

I have seen this topic mentioned some, but the other issue I have to resolve is the Cat I versus Cat II. My tractor is set up for Cat II, but most all of the implements are Cat I. I recently purchased a disc harrow that has Cat II pins, but planned to swap them to Cat I so it would fit our other tractors. Is there really any harm done by using the Cat II hooks on Cat I equipment? I realize that most Cat II tractors can easily damage Cat I equipment by overpowering it, but that is not my concern with this question. I think common sense goes a long ways in not destroying equipment by overpowering it. Is it better to just go with the Cat II to Cat I hitch or just order the straight Cat II?

 

[oldboyscout]

I used the HF Quick Hitch for a while and it almost always needed some kind of adjustment, even with my "quick hitch compatible" implements. Each implement needs a different top link adjustment to work right anyway. My mower wouldn't work at all due to the top link.
I recently installed the Carter and Sons and am VERY happy with it. Every implement fits and it takes about 30 seconds to put the 3 pins once you've backed up to an implement.

 

[oldboyscout]

As far as cat I vs cat II, you could swap out all the pins to cat I and use bushing where necessary to the lift arms. Pat's and Carter's has a Cat I or II so it really doesn't matter much.

 

[blueriver]

I am all for Pat's because of the customer service. Twice I have addressed them, once I needed springs and a bushing ... no questions asked and at no expense to me a complete package of new parts arrived !! Second time after years of use I sent them to them because of wear ... now listen we use them and I mean use them more than the average user so for most wear would not be a concern. Again Pat's rebuilt both of mine changed to the new style and fresh paint again ... NO COST TO ME!!!

Disc mowers for hay cutting hang out to the right of the tractor and apply alot of pressure to the hitches and I got wear on them. The only time I have top link problems is when the disc mowers are on ... I am fully extended. I do appreciate the extra room for hooking up the PTO.

You will not be disapointed with Pats.

 

[Boeing]

I looked at the "quick hitch" and the top link is an issue....my impliments all have greatly different top link requirements. The bush hog needs a LONG top link whereas the spreader needs a short link.....anyway, I didn't want the QH.
I DID buy the ezy change, it is GREAT. BUT, like all things it needs some adaptation. It extended my arms about 4", therefore I had to buy a new LONGER top link. Available for about $34 and is 33". ALSO, more important, I had to get a PTO shaft extension. My PTO shaft actually came apart while mowing on a ridge....not good. Tractor Supply had an extension for $29.

Now that those items are in place I love it. A hydralink might be helpful but last I heard the "extended" one is unavailable and the "KIT" that is offered is ridiculously expensive as it is in ADDITION to the standard length link (which I don't need). For now a few turns on the longer top link works fine. :thumbsup:
Good luck, Rob

 

[samhudson3]

Love me some Pat's. I used to loathe changing implements, now it's a breeze. I made 2 spacers - that takes care of all my implements. And, I can set my anti-sway bars before I hook stuff up.

 

[jenkinsph]

After looking at all of these and hearing the comments, it really seems the PEC is the most flexible, universal set up. This seems it would simplify the hardest part of the job in getting the bottom links on the pins. The top is really not a big deal.

I have seen this topic mentioned some, but the other issue I have to resolve is the Cat I versus Cat II. My tractor is set up for Cat II, but most all of the implements are Cat I. I recently purchased a disc harrow that has Cat II pins, but planned to swap them to Cat I so it would fit our other tractors. Is there really any harm done by using the Cat II hooks on Cat I equipment? I realize that most Cat II tractors can easily damage Cat I equipment by overpowering it, but that is not my concern with this question. I think common sense goes a long ways in not destroying equipment by overpowering it. Is it better to just go with the Cat II to Cat I hitch or just order the straight Cat II?

To resolve the IMatch with three tractors I bought an IMatch for each of them. Have one for the x749 too but haven't decided whether that is a good thing yet.

About the Cat 1 vs Cat 2 setups, I would use cat 1 pins with bushings when working with the larger cat 2 tractor. For the new disk I would use cat 2 pins, from my experience the smaller cat 1 pins will not hold up to the stress put on them by the disk, Some cat 2 implements you can get away with the cat 1 pins but not high draft load tools.

About your question of using the larger tractor with cat 2 hitch on the smaller cat 1 implements it doesn't become a problem unless you try to work them beyond their design limits. Just use your common sense.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

We have Cat 2 tractor and mixed equipment. Went with Cat 2 option and just leave the bushings full time on the Cat 1 stuff converting them to Cat 2 effectively.

Before Pat's system it was a pain working in those bushings.

 

[Boeing]

I forgot to mention one other GREAT help accessory. PAT'S (Greenwell) sells the LARGE washers that go over the attachment pins but....those washers are usually sliding all over the length of the pin as you try to align the hitch. The PAT'S washers are oversized and bent to a 90 degree angle and DRILLED for the hitch pin....to lock the washers in place.
Hard to describe but it keeps the washers in one place and you NEVER have to remove the hitch pin. Go to their website to see info. I bought 20 pairs and leave on all impliments. NOW, I can indeed just back up to and raise the lift arms to hook up the lower hitch, YES, I have to get off to hook up the upper link, but I'm not an invalid YET.....

 

[greg_g]

Is it better to just go with the Cat II to Cat I hitch or just order the straight Cat II?

Go Cat 2 definitely, cuz you should size the PEC to the tractor - not to the implement. Then then just buy Cat2/1 lift pin bushings to adapt your Cat 1 implement pins to the Cat 2 PEC. Bushings are inexpensive, and available at any farm supply store. Heck, even the local NAPA store sells them

//greg//

 

[deere5105]

Cat II makes sense. Honestly the current set up is Cat II and have been using it without issue so far. Makes me wonder how necessary the bushings are. With the PEC I figure there will be some movement anyway. How critical does everyone think the bushings are to go from Cat I to Cat II? For my situation the PEC seems the most logical choice. I also noticed the pins they sell with the hitch. Very ingenious idea and I am sure worth the cost.

 

[greg_g]

How critical does everyone think the bushings are to go from Cat I to Cat II?

You'll find out when you start having to replace implement pins.

//greg//

 

[deere5105]

You'll find out when you start having to replace implement pins.

//greg//

Are you implying that the "slack" created by the loose fit causes the weaker/smaller Cat I pins to bend and/or break?

 

[deere5105]

Have recently finished my disc rebuild project and am looking into the PEC options again. I ordered some parts for my project from AgriSupply and noticed they had a good price on the PEC and it included the stablilizer bar.

Question is, I noticed it stated this was an "Economy Model". Has anyone ordered this item from AgriSupply and is it any different from one that would be ordered direct?

 

[The It]

Have recently finished my disc rebuild project and am looking into the PEC options again. I ordered some parts for my project from AgriSupply and noticed they had a good price on the PEC and it included the stablilizer bar.

Question is, I noticed it stated this was an "Economy Model". Has anyone ordered this item from AgriSupply and is it any different from one that would be ordered direct?

The Economy Model is different. There's been some discussion about this, one thread included a postings by a guy who was pretty PO'd about it; the thread also included Pat's response. Sorry, I don't have time right now to find that thread for you, but it should be pretty easy to search for it.

 

[jenkinsph]

I work alone quite a bit so I have found that the IMatch with proper bushings and modifications to the implements is the best way to go. Spent the better part of one day making everything compatible with IMatch and it has been smooth sailing ever since. Anything I build or buy I try to get compatible to start with. My boxblade is the only thing left to modify, hope to do this soon.

If it were me I would get a cat 2 quick hitch since that is what the tractor is then make all the implements fit this.