VERY expensive beet juice!

[canoetrpr]

I wonder if a bit of the price difference in WWF is that ours is rated for -40. Doesn't justify $120 vs $40 though!

 

[chrisser]

At my local TSC, I can get WWF rated at 32F, 0F and -20F. I don't know if they'll be lower temp WWF as the cold season gets closer.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I wonder if a bit of the price difference in WWF is that ours is rated for -40. Doesn't justify $120 vs $40 though!

How often does it get that cold? I know it does but I would imagine you would have to have the truck running 24/7 so there would be some heat or in a heated garage/building.

Chris

 

[foggy1111]

How often does it get that cold? I know it does but I would imagine you would have to have the truck running 24/7 so there would be some heat or in a heated garage/building.

Chris

-30 f below is seriously cold weather. We often get a week or so of those kinda temps. Longer periods for our friends to the north. I used to travel in those conditions....and always prepared for a breakdown. Sometimes tires don't get round due to the cold. They just thump down the road.

You learn to maintain equipment for operating in cold weather as small problems can compound themselves very quickly. At those temps you do not need additional problems.....like -20 WW solution. You could regret buying the wrong stuff just to save a few bucks.

I wish a few of our FL friends could experience a few days of it. (grin)

 

[canoetrpr]

The reality is that it barely ever gets that cold where I am. Lake Ontario tends to temper the weather a bit. We have a few days of -30 to -35 degree weather at the coldest.

I do like a margin of error though and if it does get that cold, is still do need the tractor to be functional.

 

[Short Game]

Anyone ever think of using an old electric blanket during the cold snaps.

 

[North Country]

Anyone ever think of using an old electric blanket during the cold snaps.

I think the cord would get caught around the axle. :laughing:

Seriously, when I'm out in that weather I'm out in it for a while - snowblowing. Plenty of time to cold soak everything to air temps.

 

[canoetrpr]

Well folks, today was the day the tractor tires were filled with WWF. All three 55 gallon drums were emptied.

I had my tire guy do the pumping for me which I know is a bit lazy but I've just been ridiculously busy at work and have used what minimal time I have to play with the tractor.

Later this evening I put some hay out for my cattle and the tractor felt a lot steadier in the ride overall. Lifting the bales was smooth.

Only thing I slightly worry about is I didn't ask my tire guy if he rinsed his hoses and equipment form the Calcium Chloride he does all day :-(.

 

[IslandTractor]

Only thing I slightly worry about is I didn't ask my tire guy if he rinsed his hoses and equipment form the Calcium Chloride he does all day :-(.

Even if he didn't, there would be minimal salt. Nothing to worry about unless you are the sort of guy who rinses sweat off the tractor too.:laughing:

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. the minscule amount in the lines along with 165g of other liquids at a minimum.. that's way % low dilution..

soundguy

 

[chrisser]

Hope this isn't a hijack, but how much worry should I give to the insides of inner tubes that once held calcium solution?

I drained them. Figured I'd put some fresh water in and swish it around and drain them again before reassembly and filling with WWF.

Should I be worried about any calcium residue that might be in the tubes?

I hate to replace them unless I really need to - besides the expense, they're perfectly fine tubes now that I've replaced the valve stems.

 

[Soundguy]

me? i usually like to replace tubes in large tires if they are old.. just because I don't like to break down big tires too often..

that said.. i would not worry about the residue.

soundguy

 

[SPYDERLK]

There are several things that can cause the fishkill you described.

One is a total freeze that can allow toxic gasses to build up.

The other is called a "turnover".........That is when the bottom layer of muck, gets too heavy............and you have a 'coinciding' cold front coming in with a lot of rain.
It changes the water so that it basically.............'turns over'............

The most noticeble thing will be that the water will be 'black' on top. I don't think you experianced this because you had surviving fish.............large fish usually die first with oxygen depletion.

Yeah, probably before the lake had cooled. ... 4ｰC is where water is most dense. A lot of 4ｰC rain and runoff into a "warm" lake would do it.
larry

 

[SPYDERLK]

Anyone ever think of using an old electric blanket during the cold snaps.

I just dig into the manure pile and park the tractor there. Keeps the water ballast from freezing.
larry

 

[Short Game]

Salt is water soluble. A good rinse should take care of it.

 

[Mistyridgefarm]

I have following this thread with some interest. My 20 year old 5300 has had CaCl filled tires since day one. Last year I snagged a valve stem on a branch and tore it. Noticing the leak, I parked it with stem at the top and used a farm jack to take off the weight. A call to the service truck and $140 had me a new tube and they topped it off.

Bottom line, how many people really have much issue with rear flats and corrosion from the "old" type ballast? Have I just been lucky(first time then) or are we just being sold an expensive solution to a problem that does not exist?

Just asking because I'll have to make a decision when the 5095M is ordered. If it hasn't been stated enough, filled tires make for better operation and safety. If you don't have the cash now for the expensive option, then go with CaCl and enjoy 20+ years of enhanced safety and capability and pay for new rims when/ if the time comes!

 

[k0ua]

I have following this thread with some interest. My 20 year old 5300 has had CaCl filled tires since day one. Last year I snagged a valve stem on a branch and tore it. Noticing the leak, I parked it with stem at the top and used a farm jack to take off the weight. A call to the service truck and $140 had me a new tube and they topped it off.

Bottom line, how many people really have much issue with rear flats and corrosion from the "old" type ballast? Have I just been lucky(first time then) or are we just being sold an expensive solution to a problem that does not exist?

Just asking because I'll have to make a decision when the 5095M is ordered. If it hasn't been stated enough, filled tires make for better operation and safety. If you don't have the cash now for the expensive option, then go with CaCl and enjoy 20+ years of enhanced safety and capability and pay for new rims when/ if the time comes!

I had some problems with CaCl. years ago. got a black thorn in the rear and penetrated the tube. It leaked between the tube and tire of course and also sprayed salty water on the painted surfaces. Had some rust develop on the rim and fender. Took entire tire/wheel off, that wasnt too bad, used the loader to lift it into the pickup truck bed, and took it to tire dealer for tube/tire repair. The putting back on of the 800 lb filled tire was really fun getting the studs lined up. Used a hydraulic jack to move the tire and rotate it slightly for line up. "gotter done"

James K0UA

 

[chrisser]

I have following this thread with some interest. My 20 year old 5300 has had CaCl filled tires since day one. Last year I snagged a valve stem on a branch and tore it. Noticing the leak, I parked it with stem at the top and used a farm jack to take off the weight. A call to the service truck and $140 had me a new tube and they topped it off.

Bottom line, how many people really have much issue with rear flats and corrosion from the "old" type ballast? Have I just been lucky(first time then) or are we just being sold an expensive solution to a problem that does not exist?

Just asking because I'll have to make a decision when the 5095M is ordered. If it hasn't been stated enough, filled tires make for better operation and safety. If you don't have the cash now for the expensive option, then go with CaCl and enjoy 20+ years of enhanced safety and capability and pay for new rims when/ if the time comes!

I'm on my first tractor. Bought it used so I don't know the history.

Rims didn't look bad from the outside - until I poked the rusty areas with a screwdriver and went right through. My rims have rust through where most of the rim bolt receivers are welded to them, and the rims are thinner due to much rusting inside. Inner tube is crusted with rust flakes and the tire bead area also.

I can't say how long it took for this process to occur - the tractor is 50 years old. I suspect with better maintenance, the problems would have been minimal. Far as I can tell, it is all from leakage at the valve stem that resulted even with a valve stem cap.

In my case, the tractor will be at recreational property for the next few years unattended for weeks or months at a time, and parked inside a dirt floor barn. A leak may escape my attention. Seeing firsthand the results, it just doesn't seem like it's worth the risk for me to use CaCl - once bitten, twice shy I guess.

I don't have a loader, so having the max weight possible isn't so much a concern - CaCl has a definite advantage if you need as much ballast as the tires can support.

Also, since I'll be loading the tires myself, WWF is a lot easier to pump in than a thick solution that has to be mixed on site.

That's my opinion and my situation. For me, WWF (or RV antifreeze if I can get it at a good price) is a better solution.

 

[RaydaKub]

I can't say how long it took for this process to occur - the tractor is 50 years old. I suspect with better maintenance, the problems would have been minimal. Far as I can tell, it is all from leakage at the valve stem that resulted even with a valve stem cap.

And that could be a huge issue all by itself. My dad's 8N had to have a rim replaced. The tractor was a 1951 model and this must have been about 1980. He found a new rim at a shop near where I was going to school, so I brought it home one weekend. Could I go back and get a rim now? Who knows? The shop might not even exist anymore. Getting 60 year old parts might not be terribly easy.

So what do you do when there are no rims to be had anymore? I guess I just would rather not go down that road.

 

[SPYDERLK]

And that could be a huge issue all by itself. My dad's 8N had to have a rim replaced. The tractor was a 1951 model and this must have been about 1980. He found a new rim at a shop near where I was going to school, so I brought it home one weekend. Could I go back and get a rim now? Who knows? The shop might not even exist anymore. Getting 60 year old parts might not be terribly easy.

So what do you do when there are no rims to be had anymore? I guess I just would rather not go down that road.

True, but it really doesnt take a lot of attention to note rim rot within 30 or 50 yrs and take preventive and remedial action.
larry