New (to me) stick welder: Persistance pays off

[Ursa Major]

I have been interested in learning welding and have read many of the informative posts here. Around a year ago I got a Oxy Acetylene set up and have dabbled in that. I will continue to do more.

I've wanted a stick welder as well and decided to use the advice I've seen here regarding looking for a good used one. It took some time and I was close to purchasing new but a used one finally turned up.

I found a Lincoln AC/DC unit for a great price. I was further happy to find out that it came with some consumables and other extras. Here are some pics.

I have been reading about the different types of stick electrodes such as 7018, 6011, 6013 etc. But, some of these sticks that came with it I've not heard of before. Can anyone identify them and their specialties, if any. Also, the seller gave me some nice scrap metal that I can use to practice on.

 

[Ursa Major]

Here is a pic of some of the sticks. I also picked up some new sticks at my welding shop for both my arc and Oxy units. Sorry about the inverted pic, I was able to rotate it but it seems to invert back to original when I post it.

 

[k0ua]

Dont know anything about those electrodes, but you got at least 100 bucks worth of metal, You can try AC, but you will like DC better, IMHO. And go buy yourself a good Auto Darkening Helmet, It will help your welding tremendously, especially as a new welder. Scratching around in the dark is no fun, and the Auto-darkening helmet solves that. I highly recommend it:thumbsup:

James K0UA

 

[Ursa Major]

James, I nearly picked up an auto darkening helmet today. I looked at the Miller helmets and some others there. I wanted to research them a bit more but I agree with you that it may be a purchase soon down the road.

 

[cowski]

looks like you have some 7018, stainless? and cast iron rods. the 7018 look like 1/8 rods.i would set the welder on dc+ on about 130 and weld with the 7018 on some of your flat plate.millers are good helmets ,i have a jackson nexgen.on a helmet spend enough to get one with changeable batteries.the cheaper ones i have been around only last a few years ,then you have get another one.

 

[Ursa Major]

Thanks Cowski, I appreciate the input.

 

[GLyford]

Here is a pic of some of the sticks.

The 308-16 is for "18/8, 301, 302, 304, 308 grades of stainless steel." Stainless rod is sometimes used to weld dissimilar metals (like mild to stainless) too.

 

[Ursa Major]

Thanks GL, how concerned about the rods age and lack of proper storage should I be? I doubt I'll be doing any repairs/fabrication of any critical assemblies at this point, but for normal everyday stuff I hope the rods will be fine.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

That is the exact same welder that I have. I've found that I need to set it on the high end of recommended settings for best results. I like the DC arc Quality, though. If your settings are right, it's hard to stick a rod.

Learn to be patient. The biggest problem I have with my welds is that I go too fast.

I see you got a few boxes of 6013. You'll like how that welds. If you get into more critical stuff, consider 7014.

Burn both those boxes of 6013 completely up welding scrap to scrap. You'll have the hang of it by then, and you can move on to building stuff.

 

[JB4310]

Don't even bother using AC unless you learn enough to know what process requires it. Just stick to the DC. For me 7018 has been the go to rod lately.

I use to think I couldn't live without 7024 for flat work but the 7018 works just as good since I got my DC stick

Don't use that nice flat stock to just practice with, find some junk. some of those pieces are prime repair/ fab stock.

One thing I don't get about the Tombstones is the leads go into the machine, all my millers had jacks, which make it simple to change leads/ use longer leads etc. How do you do it with the Lincolns, cut and splice? or go into the machine?

JB.