Tractor Sizing Help in sizing tractor

   / Help in sizing tractor #1  

RJJR

Gold Member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
313
Location
NC
Tractor
2011 Kioti DK45 HST
Hello everyone,
I'm interested in your advice on the following. I have aproximately 14 acres that has about 5 acres cleared that is presently being farmed, a 1 acre pond and another 7 acres that is an old cutover tha I will probably clear for a homesite. The 7 acres is somewhat hilly, with all kinds of underbrush and 10 foot pines that have volunteered. The pond and the cleared land are at a lower elevation. There is about a 30 foot drop to this part of the property at a 1 to 1 or 1 to 2 slope. Other information: Land is rocky. I may be able to purchase another 14 acres beside it that looks identicle. Also, my brother has a 4320 and several implemets that we can share. I could purchase a few that he doesn't have and between us we'd hae a pretty good variety of tools for most jobs. That could be considered a benefit. However, I'm not sure if its enough to go the extra mile for a 4320 when all I have is 14 acres at this point. There's no guarantee that I'll buy the other land. Would a 30 series tractor be able to pull the same attachments as the 4320. It looks like some folks on here are going for the 2520 with similiar acreage. What's the least amount of tractor that could use the sam implements as the 4320? Thanks in advance for all your help. This appears to be a great forum.
RJ
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #2  
Hello, welcome to the forum. It really depends what type of equipment he has. I can barely doubt that a 3320 or 3520 will pull his implements but a 3720 should no problem. I would recommend some models, 3720, 4320, 4520, 5045E, 5055E. I would really look into the 5E series. Their cheap you should really look into them, If you go to JohnDeere's channel on Youtube you can see some videos about them comparing to a Kubota.
 
   / Help in sizing tractor
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thank you, I'm jsut staritng to look. My brother has a FEL 6' blade, bush hog, a plow and disc for the 4320. I'm considering a back hoe. FEL, root rake of some sort. I realize the E series is an economy tractor. What are the disadvantages of that series over others? I don't wnat to buy it and find out I can't perform some routine task.
Thanks
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #4  
Dont look down at the 5E Series. They might not have all the bells and whistles you want. But you get a lot of power per dollar. It isn't like a real economy tractor. Its way better than a kubota. Its a basic tractor but its not a economy tractor.
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #5  
Dont look down at the 5E Series. They might not have all the bells and whistles you want. But you get a lot of power per dollar. It isn't like a real economy tractor. Its way better than a kubota. Its a basic tractor but its not a economy tractor.

There are definitely some advantages that a John Deere may have over a Kubota, but I assure you that there is probably an equal number where Kubota is better.

I've owned both in aboutthe same size and speaking between the two tractors, there were some features that were standard on the Kubota that John Deere didn't have.

The biggest thing I like on the John Deere is that the brakes are on the left.
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #6  
A 3520 is a good tractor it has something like 38 hp and the one I use for a farmer does great with loader, brush cutter and even a backhoe
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #7  
There are definitely some advantages that a John Deere may have over a Kubota, but I assure you that there is probably an equal number where Kubota is better.

I've owned both in aboutthe same size and speaking between the two tractors, there were some features that were standard on the Kubota that John Deere didn't have.

The biggest thing I like on the John Deere is that the brakes are on the left.

Not all of this is true. All my tractors are right hand brakes. The only reason you have the brakes on the left is for it to be more user friendly and eHydro and HST are both configured that way. If you go to any other JD that is not eHydro or HST the brakes will be on the right.
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #8  
Seems in working with most any ground implements or loader, in a compact tractor up to let's say the 4000 series Deere - you're going to run out of traction before you run out of horsepower. That is my experience with a 4120 Deere anyway. If you're running pto-driven implements, that's a different situation. As Edward mentioned, the 5000 series Deere is another step up and has enough weight to make a difference - you'll not have the e-Hydro option with those machines though. IMHO if you're going to share implements with your brother, I'd probably stick with that size machine myself.
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #9  
Not all of this is true. All my tractors are right hand brakes. The only reason you have the brakes on the left is for it to be more user friendly and eHydro and HST are both configured that way. If you go to any other JD that is not eHydro or HST the brakes will be on the right.

Let me re-phrase, what I like the most about my John Deere is that the brakes are on the left.
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #10  
Let me re-phrase, what I like the most about my John Deere is that the brakes are on the left.

That sounds better :thumbsup:, I kind of felt like a dick after saying that. :ashamed:
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #11  
That sounds better :thumbsup:, I kind of felt like a dick after saying that. :ashamed:

Not a biggie, still doesn't make sense why the brakes would be on the right, but since on other models there are clutch pedals (I assume that they are on the left), I guess I would expect that.

Since I am not a hard core tractor person, I guess I expect some (what I call it) common sense features.

On the Kubota I had it, didn't matter since there were no steering brakes.
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #12  
Im guessing this, Clutch, Brakes, Foot Throttle.
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #13  
Back to the OP's question. You have difficult terrain which is going to call for a larger tractor. Try your brothers 4120 at your place for a week if you can and see how it is. If you can afford, buy one, or find one used. You can't go much below the 3520 and get away with it to share implements. The problem with the 3000 series is track width. They are a bit narrow as they come from the factory and many owners have widened them with 8lug skid steer spacers from Prowler on eBay. I have also purchased a set and will be adding 4" per side. The 2000 series is going to be too small for your terrain and property.

Honestly you should be looking at the 5045e. It's going to cost less than several of the compact tractors, it has weight, wheelbase, and track width which will work well on the hills. It is unfortunate that they used and e as the designation. They are more than just economy tractors, it's just that they don't have as many options. I think they are nicer than the NH Workmasters but that's another tractor you could look at. Also look at the Kioti DK45, DK50, and DK55 ( which may be EXACTLY what you are looking for at a price you can afford).
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #14  
Not all of this is true. All my tractors are right hand brakes. The only reason you have the brakes on the left is for it to be more user friendly and eHydro and HST are both configured that way. If you go to any other JD that is not eHydro or HST the brakes will be on the right.

Hi, when back dragging with bucket pressure down, front wheels up, having the ability to brake steer with brake pedals on the opposite side of hydro pedal is a definite plus.

cheers,
deoke
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #15  
Hi, when back dragging with bucket pressure down, front wheels up, having the ability to brake steer with brake pedals on the opposite side of hydro pedal is a definite plus.

cheers,
deoke

Yeah but I have gear tractors.... So it doesnt really matter.... He has HST , Hydro.
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #16  
Yeah but I have gear tractors.... So it doesnt really matter.... He has HST , Hydro.

Sure it does... set the hand throttle and work the brakes - left or right - and you can back drag just fine. Don't have to use the foot throttle.

'Course you won't be back dragging very much with either the 5085M or the 6420.. :D

AKfish
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #17  
Hi Larry, long time no chat with my Alaska friend.
A hand throttle attached to the the hydro pedal might be a fix on the 'back dragging thing". Of course the OSHA people may flip on this one.
Never ran a hydro tractor but I understand cruise control is an option on some.
So, maybe brake steer back dragging in cruise is what some folks do here.
Also, cruise may be locked out while in reverse, don't know anythin about this myself.

cheers,
 
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   / Help in sizing tractor #18  
You also might want to look at a used John Deere 3020 or 4020 row crop tractor with the foot clutch on the left shuttle shift and throttle on the dash board and brakes on the right.

You will be out much less money and those machines are keepers and they are good tractors and parts are still easy to obtain as well.:thumbsup:
 
   / Help in sizing tractor
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Are you talking about the 1970's model 3020 or another year model?
I can't follow them as well since they changed.
Thaks
 
   / Help in sizing tractor #20  
I would say that it depends on if you want to clear the 7 acres yourself, or have it done and then just "maintain" it. If you want to do it yourself, you need the bigger 5000 E series with a strong FEL, MFWD, and a grapple on the FEL. If you have it done, you could get by with the 3520 or 3720 and be able to use the 6' implements reasonably well.
 

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