TIG welding aluminum

[fixit]

The weld looks like there isn't enough heat and not cleaned to well

And to be honest if you hadn't said you were using pure argon i would have said it was mix

If i was you i would clean up sheet and just practice on the flat first don't worry about joining two bit together just to nail the tecnique

There is no point in making your own life hard untill you crack it then let the fun begin

Im with you there is no way i would pay someone to weld something if i have the tools then they need to pay for themselves

There is just no point in spending the money on the equipment then paying someone else to do the job:thumbsup:

Chin up you will sort it:thumbsup:

 

[robs660]

Changing from dc to AC made a big difference! That was a dumb mistake! More practice today.

 

[RoyJackson]

Changing from dc to AC made a big difference! That was a dumb mistake! More practice today.

AC...darn!! After 30 some years, I forgot about AC and high frequency.

Yep, AC for non-ferrous, DC for ferrous.

BTW, AC, and especially high frequency, can interfere with TV and radio reception (maybe cell phnes too). Also, if you or one of your buddies has a pacemaker, keep 10-20 feet away (some pacemakers are more susceptible then others).

 

[c23380]

YES, as Roy said. Pace makers can be effected. My buddy had to quit the Aluminum welding because of his.

 

[Oldtink]

On your Miller Syncrowave you can also adjust your wave form from balanced to max negative. it will produce more heat in the material and less in the tungsten and still have plenty of cleaning power.
You might also try using a gas lens in your torch. They really do produce more even shielding and allow more stick out.

 

[Shield Arc]

None of my projects are ever important enough to take out for welding. I want to learn to do this as I have the equipment and I understand the theory. I would rather burn through a bunch of rod and material then just send it out I could always mig but I really want to learn and understand how to do it. More practice will be coming tonight

I'm the same way! I wanted to learn how to Tig weld aluminum so I bought a Dynasty 300, and jumped right in.

Here are some pictures of my first project.

 

[RoyJackson]

I'm the same way! I wanted to learn how to Tig weld aluminum so I bought a Dynasty 300, and jumped right in.

Here are some pictures of my first project.

Nice looking beads!!

 

[Shield Arc]

Nice looking beads!!

Thank you!

Trust me, it's the machine! These Miller Dynastys weld aluminum by them selves, just need someone to turn the machine on.

 

[robs660]

So...... Switched ofer to AC and it's like Childs play. Only thing now is I keep getting a little aluminum on my tungsten any thoughts?

 

[Bill Barrett]

Thank you!

Trust me, it's the machine! These Miller Dynastys weld aluminum by them selves, just need someone to turn the machine on.

Yep they are awesome!!
I have a 200 with all the options wish I got the 300.

It can't be clean enough, and it takes a lot more heat on aluminum to get the base metal hot enough to get a puddle going than you would think.

 

[Bill Barrett]

I weld aluminum as a profession.
Follow the guidelines with your Miller machine.

As a base use 190-200 and pedal the amperage to get the base material to puddle FIRST. This should be around 150-175 for non-anodized aluminum plate. THEN add rod to the front of the puddle and work it into the base metal by moving back to the previous "button" on the weld bead and then forward before adding rod once again. Repeat.
Your picture shows a lack of shielding gas coverage: Check you distance from the cup to the base metal AND the CFM of the ARGON gas. It should be 15 or so. IF you're welding outside of a sheltered area with a breeze blowing this WILL greatly affect the shielding gas' ability to cover your weld.
The base metal alloy is a big factor in the choice of filler rod. However as stated by one of the other posters, I would guess that it is a 5xxx alloy.
Either 4043 orm 5356 rod will work.
Stick out, the measure of distance your electrode is past the front edge of the cup, plays an important role as well. while your learning ( and even after) keep the electrode even with the front edge of the cup or no more then an 1/8th of an inch out.
The fillet weld you are attemptinig is generally not given to students of aluminum welding until after they are relatively proficient in the flat and lap welds. Simply put it takes some time to learn and it is pretty tough top figure it all out on your own. But...
Having someone who knows show you can make a HUGE diffence. Check out Miller's website Miller - Welding Equipment - MIG/TIG/Stick Welders & Plasma Cutting and click on the "Resources" tab. you will find videos that are FREE and they can help you with your technique.
I'll assist you as much as I can via remote control.
Good Luck ! DL

Very good info!
The Miller web site is the best! Great source of info you can find for free!

 

[rmdaniels47]

Great discusion here, I think people have solved your issues. I just want to emphasize the great stuff on Millers web site (Miller - Welding Equipment - MIG/TIG/Stick Welders & Plasma Cutting) especially under "Resources" then "Improving your skills" -lots of quick welding helps & instuctions for the major welding prcesses.

Best for this thread though is their "free" download of their "TIG Handbook"
Miller - Resources - TIG Handbook
This 12 chapter handbook I've used as a textbook for teaching TIG welding classes for several years. They also sell a printed edition for about $25.00 if you don't like reading a computer and printing your own PDF file copy.

Happy reading and welding. RMD

 

[RoyJackson]

So...... Switched ofer to AC and it's like Childs play. Only thing now is I keep getting a little aluminum on my tungsten any thoughts?

I think you might be dipping your electrode in to the puddle (or hitting it on the workpiece when striking the arc). Move the torch away from the puddle a bit. Also, IIRC, you do not want a super sharp point on that tungsten.

One trick I was taught (when I learned TIG a million years ago), was to use a piece of brass (1"x1" and maybe .06" thick) and strike your arc on the brass. That prevents contaiminating your electrode (won't stick either) when striking. Just keep the brass close to your work piece so you can carry the arc over.

 

[Mechanos]

I think you might be dipping your electrode in to the puddle (or hitting it on the workpiece when striking the arc). Move the torch away from the puddle a bit. Also, IIRC, you do not want a super sharp point on that tungsten.

One trick I was taught (when I learned TIG a million years ago), was to use a piece of brass (1"x1" and maybe .06" thick) and strike your arc on the brass. That prevents contaiminating your electrode (won't stick either) when striking. Just keep the brass close to your work piece so you can carry the arc over.

Roy,
Was this on a lift-arc machine? Most of the "modern" welders now-days are high frequency start and you don't have to actually "strike" an arc.

 

[RoyJackson]

Roy,
Was this on a lift-arc machine? Most of the "modern" welders now-days are high frequency start and you don't have to actually "strike" an arc.

Like I wrote...I learned a million years ago.
Even then, the machines had "soft start" for thin gage material as well as high frequency.
"Striking" the arc might have not been the best terminology (in fact, it may be an archaic term now). I reckon one still has to get the electrode close enough to the work piece to start the arc. Never did actually have to touch to get the arc lit off, but with the helmet on, it was hard to prevent touching (at least it was for me).
I do know the technology has really improved (company I worked at a few years back had machines that really controlled the arc). I haven't welded in years and can't use TIG any more since I do have a pacemaker.