Pole Barn Siding Material

[TonyF]

I have many large pine logs (60 +) And, can have them cut into lumber. I'm building a pole barn this spring and would like to use the resulting rough cut lumber for batten and board siding.

Anyone think the pine siding is a bad idea?

I plan on treating the siding with something, stain, water sealer???

I also have sweet gum http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/197367-sweet-gum-trees.html#post2269307

Thanks

 

[Mace Canute]

It depends a lot on what you want it to look like now and several years into the future and what maintenance you would have to do on it in the intervening time to have it look that way.
Personally, I like the clad metal siding for both appearance and the next to zero maintenance.

 

[SandburRanch]

I have many large pine logs (60 +) And, can have them cut into lumber. I'm building a pole barn this spring and would like to use the resulting rough cut lumber for batten and board siding.

Anyone think the pine siding is a bad idea?

I plan on treating the siding with something, stain, water sealer???

I also have sweet gum http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/197367-sweet-gum-trees.html#post2269307

Thanks

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With that number of large logs I'd give it my best shot to only use quartersawn for siding and find another use for all other cuts.

 

[Car Doc]

I have a friend that took logs and slabbed them and used them to side his man cave on the exterior.

It all warped and twisted and shrunk and generally looked like crap so he took it all back down and he didn't find a solution so that's all I can add.

There must be a way to do it but what is it? good luck

 

[ken4831]

I have many large pine logs (60 +) And, can have them cut into lumber. I'm building a pole barn this spring and would like to use the resulting rough cut lumber for batten and board siding.

Anyone think the pine siding is a bad idea?

I plan on treating the siding with something, stain, water sealer???

I also have sweet gum http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/197367-sweet-gum-trees.html#post2269307

Thanks

There is several barns in this area using cut pine and some may be close to a hundred years old never treated it develops a patina and continues to look good. When wood is sawed stand the boards in a upright A frame type configureation and 1X12 to 16 width. let dry for a couple of months
build a pole barn and nailer boards about every 2 to 4 feet start at corner and with boards upright nail in center of board this way it doesn't split and when finished cover the seams with another board 1X4 this way the lumber can expand when wet and then still keep the rain outside. The Gum can be put on rafters for the nailer boards and nailed green straight from the sawing this prevents the warping common to gum dries in place.
The foundation should be high enough to prevent termites from starting.

 

[LD1]

do yourself a favor and sell the logs and buy metal

 

[EddieWalker]

Since you are in Alabama, I'm gonna assume that you have a lot of humidity, hight temps in summer, cold temps in winter and tons of bugs.

Pine is just about the very worse material that you can use for the siding of a home!!!!!!

It's a nice idea to use what you have, but there are times when it's cheaper to go with what's right for the job. You want to protect the framing and keep the elements out. You want it to last and not be a maintenance issue. If the bugs get in, they will just destroy the framing to. If it rots, it will lead to rot of the framing. If it leaks, the framing will get wet and become a home for bugs and rot.

Metal is about the cheapest siding material out there. It's not the prettiest,but it's effective, easy to install and will last a very long time.

My favorit is James Hardi. It's going to cost quite a bit more, but it's beautiful and VERY long lasting.

T1-11 is exterior plywood that is cost effective, but not very attractive in my opinion and also a maintenance concern. It doesn't hold paint very well and you need to keep up with it to make it last.

There are other products made of fiber and paper that are also cost effective, but don't last too long.

Do it right the first time and you will save mone in the long term.

Good luck,
Eddie

 

[bearhawk]

I used vertical ship-lap pine siding on my barn. The ship-lap lies flat and you don't need the batten.

I painted the boards with red barn paint before nailing them up. Although if I had to do it again I might just use an airless sprayer and paint it after it is installed.

 

[whitmerlegacyfarm]

I just recently sided my one barn w/ jack pine. Did various widths w/ batten strips. I used a semi transparent stain on it and i love it. I put my up as soon as it was sawn. It willl shrink up but it's down goin to bow or pop the nail out. Know if it was oak it would do what it wanted to do. As long as you are 2 to 4ft w/ nailers. Just make sure any doors you cross brace well enough cause that's the only place i had a lil problem w/ the warping.

I do agree though i had my own lumber and it still cost me the same amount to get it sawed up and the money in stain and all the extra time into cutting things, as if i were to of just used metal. I just prefer the look the wood.

 

[/pine]

I agree that pine (especially some species) is susceptible to insects and the elements...but some pines can make attractive sidings...

Personally I like the look of rough sawn (1") bark edge siding (applied horizontally aka bevel)...Southern White Pine is commonly used and holds up well with most stains or finishes...I think it looks best when rough 2x is used for corner, window and door trim and the siding butts into the trim.
The curvy,knotty bark edge makes for a very rustic look especially when the same (bottom) bark edge boards are used for fascia and beam wraps etc...

Wood is most susceptible from the ends...when using vertical boards and battens always seal the ends that will be towards the ground before applying...likewise with rough wood vertical corner and door trim for horizontal siding applications...

 

[Lt220]

There are many types of exterior siding that is pine......from lap siding to 4x8 sheets of 1/2" and 5/8" siding. I live in GA. and pine is used allot for exterior applications....not only siding but facial boards and carnish. The key is to use some type of sealer. In order to keep exterior pine siding from rot, you need to paint it or use a water treatment sealer. In your case, I would make sure that the board and batten siding did not touch the ground and I would apply 2 coats of water sealer to the siding when you are done with installation. This is easily applied with a pump sprayer. It's just like everything else, with the right maintenance it should last you a life time.......and nothing looks better on a barn than rough sawn board and batten!:thumbsup:

 

[DennisArrow]

You are from Huntsville so I assume that the pine you are going to use is Southern Yellow.............Fantastic/structural stuff.......Hard as a rock and of the pines fairly rot resistant.

I have used this product from a local mill on 2 polebarns here and could not be happier..........So many ways to finish it that all of the above is great. For me, I like the grey/silver patina of unfinished........Fifty years from now when some does begin to rot or split I can always just go in and replace the individual boards. Look around the next time you are driving. NOTICE what the old guys did................God bless.......Dennis

 

[ken4831]

The house I'm living and grew up in is made of rough cut full 2x4 studs and floor joists of 3x12 on 24 ' centers Rafters are 2x6 rough cut. About time we were planning on retiring 15 years ago decided to sheet rock walls and add insulation in walls . The interior walls were all 1x12/14/16" width boards and had been used from some other location as the weathered side of boards were nailed to studs .This house is about 90 years old. No termites when first checked and still in termite maintance none found.
The orginal barn was from same type of material interior set up for holding horses with hay mow overhead corn crib on inside. Would still be here except 30 years ago a fire from burning brush cought the hay in barn and lost everything inside.
This house has taken 2 direct hits by tornado and only minor damage.
All the material was cut on growth from this farm. Bull Pine is tough the pine grown today kind of like using weeds.
Some one with a large Woodmizer band saw will cut your pine any thickness you desire and boards standing upright seem to shed water better. ken4831

 

[TonyF]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Yes I like the look of the batten on board rough cut siding, plus want to find a good use for the lumber.

Eddie, yes my biggest concern would be termites, or carpenter bees having a taste for the wood siding. I've run around the yard now swatting the bees with an old badminton racket.

Still undecided, have to give it some more thought.

 

[ken4831]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Yes I like the look of the batten on board rough cut siding, plus want to find a good use for the lumber.

Eddie, yes my biggest concern would be termites, or carpenter bees having a taste for the wood siding. I've run around the yard now swatting the bees with an old badminton racket.

Still undecided, have to give it some more thought.

Assuming this building will be on foundation or slab and a course of 2 height of blocks will make a termite barrier. I frequently am in barns built with rough cut pine that are older than antiqes. sure there is maintance issues where the tractor hit the walls or a cow decided to make a new door. But a working building of any type gets damaged.
Your pine cut in 6x6 for the corners 2x6 for the nailer boards will make as strong of building . If building for strength look into the red steel framing and metal walls but animal urine will eat the tin.
ken 4831

 

[MikeInEburg]

When I built a pole-type wood shed, I used rough cut lumber for everything that didn't touch the ground. The biggest advantage is that it ascetically fits in with the house and garage - metal siding would have screamed "I don't belong here".
Mike

 

[TonyF]

Assuming this building will be on foundation or slab and a course of 2 height of blocks will make a termite barrier....ken 4831

Good point Ken. I was not planning on putting the building on a slab, just a gravel floor to start with a pressure treated bottom girt.

Anyone thing the metal termite barriers would work? ...probably look like crap and be ineffective anyway.

 

[TonyF]

When I built a pole-type wood shed, I used rough cut lumber for everything that didn't touch the ground. The biggest advantage is that it ascetically fits in with the house and garage - metal siding would have screamed "I don't belong here".
Mike

Exactly, this building will be located in the woods with one side exposed to the open yard with a short path leading up to it.

 

[Western]

I had a friend do this when I lived in Colorado, he used Linseed oil and saturated it.

Of course it is a hugely different climate with the freeze thaw cycles, but the oil looked good and repelled water real good. May or may not be an option for you.

I too like metal siding for the longevity and durability, but wood is sure "Purdy"