Adjustable lifting link for Cat 1 TPH

[Mechanos]

The three point hitch on my 955 has solid (non-adjustable) lifting links on both sides. I'm wanting to build an adjustable link for one the sides.

I've come up with stuff and method to make an adjustable link with 4" of adjustment... is that enough? Should the amount of adjustment be centered (2" up, 2" down) or should it be biased one way or the other?

 

[Zebrafive]

I would bias at least 3" down, since you will most likely be leveling or tilting a Back Blade or Box Blade. You will have an inch of up for leveling and the rest avaliable for tilting down.

 

[jenkinsph]

I would bias at least 3" down, since you will most likely be leveling or tilting a Back Blade or Box Blade. You will have an inch of up for leveling and the rest avaliable for tilting down.

I agree, I find it much easier for me to turn around and look over my right shoulder when ditching with a rear blade and most other chores too. So when I set my top n tilt up I use the adjustable manual arm to allow for more drop to the right side of the tractor. When I raise the right side up with the hydraulic tilt fully it is level. If needed I can adjust the manual linkage to fine tune this. This gives me the maximum angle for the blade to tilt when cutting a ditch on the right side of the tractor.

 

[oldnslo]

Put some type of permanent mark on the threads to ensure you do not extend them to far and pull the link apart. On my BX, I removed one thread as an visual indicator.


Roy

 

[techwrtr2]

The factory adjustable link has roll pins inside to prevent over extending.

 

[Tx Jim]

It's odd that your 955 has no adjustable lift links on 3pt as I can't find anything in PC # 2263 but the adjustable links
CH16114 NUT ADD 1.30 USD
AM102088 LINK, WELDED LOWER ADD 49.25 USD
AM102087 LINK, WELDED UPPER ADD 90.00 USD
CH15288 TURNBUCKLE ADD 99.26 USD

 

[Mechanos]

Considering that I'm at least the 4th or 5th owner, and at least one of those previous owners was a private dealer, I don't find it that odd.

 

[Mechanos]

Based on some of the comments and info in this thread, I have a new plan. If my preliminary math checks out, I should be able to get about 6.5" of adjustment...... about 1" up and 5.5" down.

 

[Tx Jim]

Considering that I'm at least the 4th or 5th owner, and at least one of those previous owners was a private dealer, I don't find it that odd.

Well you hadn't stated that you were the 4th or 5th owner up until now. So now I don't find it odd either.

 

[Mechanos]

I want to use a new ball on the end of the adjustable lift link I'm building, but I can't find replacements. Cat. 1 weld-on lift arm balls are easy to find, but they have a 7/8" hole. The pins on the rockshaft arms are 3/4" and I can't seem to locate weld on balls with a 3/4" hole.

If push comes to shove, I can always replace the pins on the rockshaft arms with 7/8" pins and use the weld-on lift arm balls.

 

[scrappy isb67]

I want to use a new ball on the end of the adjustable lift link I'm building, but I can't find replacements. Cat. 1 weld-on lift arm balls are easy to find, but they have a 7/8" hole. The pins on the rockshaft arms are 3/4" and I can't seem to locate weld on balls with a 3/4" hole.

If push comes to shove, I can always replace the pins on the rockshaft arms with 7/8" pins and use the weld-on lift arm balls.

cat 0 balls?

 

[Mechanos]

Cat 0 lift arm balls are 5/8" bore. These balls are in between Cat 0 and Cat 1

 

[Mechanos]

Well, I finally got around to building my adjustable side link. I used a racheting load binder with a foldable handle. Cut the eyes and hooks off and welded one end to the yoke for the lift arm and welded the other end to a ball joint. I have about 1" of up adjustment and about 6" of down adjustment.