Loader Procedure for attaching loader to BX

[sbrown]

I just bought a Kubota BX1860, with the FEL and 48" MMM for my 4 acres, and I'm in the process of learning how to make the most out of it. Taking the MMM on and off is pretty easy, but I've been struggling with the FEL. Taking the FEL off was very quick, but realigning the pins to get it mounted again has been more challenging. Any experienced users out there care to go through your procedure for this or give some tips? The first one I've learned is that it will be easier to get the FEL back on if you drop it onto level ground.

 

[TripleR]

Watch this to see if it helps. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hVW7hQadF8

I have found it really important to do this on a hard flat surface until you do it a few times.

On uneven ground, these things are light enough to shim or hack up, my sons just lift it.

I have use weight in the bucket, IE on the lip to help get leverage when using curl to get it off and have use the up/down arms in addition to the dump on the bucket to position the hooks and to get it to seat as you can get more force.

If all this doesn't work, unhook, back out and readjust everything by adding boards etc to line your tractor/loader up right.

 

[bp fick]

Yup. YouTube. That's how I learned. I watched the video by BXpanded and Messick a dozen times. They both show you something.

When he stops, watch how he "circles" the joystick to get all the pressure out of the lines. Important step not to miss.

Also, back out just far enough to give you some room disconnecting the hoses. The videos are both shot from the "wrong" side to show you the coupling disconnecting. YouTube!! Gotta love it.

I laugh at myself now, for having to learn that way, but hey, it works.

 

[TripleR]

Yup. YouTube. That's how I learned. I watched the video by BXpanded and Messick a dozen times. They both show you something.

When he stops, watch how he "circles" the joystick to get all the pressure out of the lines. Important step not to miss.

Also, back out just far enough to give you some room disconnecting the hoses. The videos are both shot from the "wrong" side to show you the coupling disconnecting. YouTube!! Gotta love it.

I laugh at myself now, for having to learn that way, but hey, it works.

I had to learn the hard way as I bought my first BX in 03. The manual description just doesn't really give you a good idea how it is supposed to work.

 

[oldnslo]

I had to learn the hard way as I bought my first BX in 03. The manual description just doesn't really give you a good idea how it is supposed to work.

Same here, things I have learned are:
Connect the hoses while still a few inches away from contacting the FEL frame.
Use both the curl/dump and raise lower to help position the mounting frame of the FEL. You can move one side or the other and push the loader frame into the tractor brackets with the FEL lift.

Don't fight it if it don't fit, stop and think about what is binding and then think about the best way to solve this problem.

Above all, practice helps.

Roy

 

[CHDinCT]

Just one suggestion to add and that is (while doing this on a flat surface) don't have the break on, at least for removal. When the bucket is used to lift the front end off the ground, the back tires will need to roll ever so slightly forward. Having the break on impedes this and I was scratching my head the first time or two why the front wouldn't come up nice and easy. Going back on, the front end doesn't need to come up, so not an issue there, but I still leave the break off in case I need to move the tractor a little fore/aft while dropping the loader arms into the cradles, again, all while on a flat surface so the tractor can't get away from you.

 

[Jabroni]

I've found that a dead flat surface is essential for pain free attachment, and that's the trap. Taking it off can be done on practiaclly any surface. But once it's off, getting it back on from that location unless it's flat can be a bear!

 

[TripleR]

One more thing I always do is to drive the tractor fully into position to make sure everything lines up, IE even on both sides etc., then back out and hook the hoses up and go from there.

 

[KU Gator]

I don't think it has been mentioned already, but even with the circling of the joy stick after shutting off that engine that BP references, if the loader is left setting in the sun, pressure can build up in the lines which make it difficult to reconnect the lines. On mine, if I am going to have trouble reconnecting them, it is usually the middle two connectors. I keep a bolt in my tool box that is large diameter and use it to press the center pin on the hydraulic connectors on the loader to relieve the pressure to get them to go back on. I put a rag over the bolt and look away before pressing it as it will squirt. You have to get them reconnected before completing the attachment process.

 

[TripleR]

I don't think it has been mentioned already, but even with the circling of the joy stick after shutting off that engine that BP references, if the loader is left setting in the sun, pressure can build up in the lines which make it difficult to reconnect the lines. On mine, if I am going to have trouble reconnecting them, it is usually the middle two connectors. I keep a bolt in my tool box that is large diameter and use it to press the center pin on the hydraulic connectors on the loader to relieve the pressure to get them to go back on. I put a rag over the bolt and look away before pressing it as it will squirt. You have to get them reconnected before completing the attachment process.

Good point, we have never had to do that on our BX, but have to on our L5030 every time; good to keep in mind it is not unusual.

 

[newdeal]

I find it pretty easy to get on and off...just drive up to the loader, make sure the lower part that rests in the semicircle at the bottom of the mount is touching the tractor! and make sure it is even on both sides...this is critical!, it will use the angled surface of the tractor mount to slide down so it engages properly in the semicircle part. So drive up to it, push against the loader, hook up the hydraulics then take the brake off, I leave the tractor in gear it seems to work better this way, lift on the loader so that the front of the tractor lifts but make sure to watch those lower mounts, if they dont seat well in the semicircle you need to adjust the roll of the bucket to get them to seat in well, if you try to lift the front of the tractor without them seating then they will pull out and it will be a real bear to get back to the start. Once its up just slide in the pins an raise the stand. I find the most time is spent just trying to get the hydro lines on and off because its hard for me to get to them since they are blocked by the loader arm...I especially have trouble getting them on because there just isnt room for two hands in there

 

[bp fick]

I find it pretty easy to get on and off...just drive up to the loader, make sure the lower part that rests in the semicircle at the bottom of the mount is touching the tractor! and make sure it is even on both sides...this is critical!, it will use the angled surface of the tractor mount to slide down so it engages properly in the semicircle part. So drive up to it, push against the loader, hook up the hydraulics then take the brake off, I leave the tractor in gear it seems to work better this way, lift on the loader so that the front of the tractor lifts but make sure to watch those lower mounts, if they dont seat well in the semicircle you need to adjust the roll of the bucket to get them to seat in well, if you try to lift the front of the tractor without them seating then they will pull out and it will be a real bear to get back to the start. Once its up just slide in the pins an raise the stand. I find the most time is spent just trying to get the hydro lines on and off because its hard for me to get to them since they are blocked by the loader arm...I especially have trouble getting them on because there just isnt room for two hands in there

This is why we drive the tractor in, but not completely. Stop short about 6-8 inches. Position the valves outside the loader. Shut down the engine. Now hook up the couplings. Get back on the tractor, restart and finish driving into the loader, the last 6 inches.

 

[TripleR]

[/B]

This is why we drive the tractor in, but not completely. Stop short about 6-8 inches. Position the valves outside the loader. Shut down the engine. Now hook up the couplings. Get back on the tractor, restart and finish driving into the loader, the last 6 inches.

Works much better that way for us too.

 

[MessickFarmEqu]

I should do another one of those videos. We where just messing around when we did that. We should do a slower one and point out what we're doing.

 

[TripleR]

I should do another one of those videos. We where just messing around when we did that. We should do a slower one and point out what we're doing.

It sure has helped a lot of us and is much appreciated.

 

[bp fick]

I should do another one of those videos. We where just messing around when we did that. We should do a slower one and point out what we're doing.

You video was MOST helpful to me. Very, very appreciated. Thanks so much for doing it.

 

[Tollster]

Not sure if its been mentioned, but its in the owners manual and thats to be sure not to excessively load the jack stands using hydralic pressure.

 

[sbrown]

Thanks for all the advice, I'll try your tips out tomorrow once I'm done dragging the lawn.

TractorByNet is an amazing resource - much better than the owner's manuals.

 

[Tom_H]

As the hydraulics get older, the two arms will not stay together very long after disattachment. They will drift apart. You can get them back to the same place by pushing on the one that is higher. After the hoses are attached, you sometimes have to let one fully extend before the other one will extend. After they are both fully extended, you can drop them both together until they are the right height to align with the bosses. You still might have to push a bit here and there, but be extremely careful of those fingers!!

 

[radioman]

Thanks for all the advice, I'll try your tips out tomorrow once I'm done dragging the lawn.

TractorByNet is an amazing resource - much better than the owner's manuals.

yeah- one of reasons why I love TBN. I can tell you that experience is no subsitute for the manual.

After reading posts on FEL here- All I can say at this point is look at messicks video and practice, practice,practice. You will get it over time, like I have.