Breaking into the bank

[scoutcub]

Up to date now on pics. We added an extra course of block to get up to grade. I'll be using attic trusses for some storage space upstairs, and planning a stairway in the back of the building. Planning on filling all the back wall blocks with concrete, and side walls every other one. Also planning backfilling gravel behind the back and side walls 1-2' all the way up to grade, and swaling the ground away from the building. Footer drains are already in, and gutter drains will be tied into same.
Couple of questions for the minds out there;
1. I'm concerned with the back wall and structural integrity, any additional strength features I can add to offset all the ground against the wall? Would it help to build a tight 2X6 wall on the inside back wall?

2. Should I add an outside access to the upstairs storage, at the back of the bank? Advantages/disadvantages?

 

[jimmyj]

I don't know about structural stuff, but I think you should add an entrance up top. Just keep it such that moisture cannot run in there. Great looking work!

 

[dave1949]

You have a great toy - er, I mean tool collection Making me envious.

Pro and con for inside or outside stairs would be inside takes floor space, quite a bit really but you never need to shovel snow off the stairs, or slip on icy treads, or re-seal the wood, etc.
Dave.

 

[radioman]

If you are worried about clay moving to break the wall- you need to think deadmans T. this is for the extreme measures, but the best thing to do is have good drainage behind the wall to releive all water hyrdaulic presssure. this will insure the wall to last a long time.

 

[scoutcub]

Thanks for the comments! I'm really at odds on how to access the loft storage.....I like the fact of being able to access from inside, but it will take up quite a bit of space....the outside access is appealing to walk straight in.....I'm thinking perhaps an outside entrance, with a vertical wall ladder on the back wall, to minimize space lost?

As for the back wall, is it safe to assume as long as I've got gravel backfilled along the wall and drainage, there won't be any damaging pressure from backfilling the clay behind the gravel?

I'm not familiar with deadmans T.....what is it??

Dave - I wish I could keep all the "tools" they sure are fun! But, after the work is done I will be selling the excavator, dozer, & dump truck to help build the home....but that will be a few more years!

 

[jimmyj]

A deadman is a piece that attaches to the wall and then anchors into the bank. Think of the base of the T attached to the wall and the top wide part bured. The top part is like an anchor that pulls back against the force of the wall trying to pull away.

I'm sure someone else will be able to explain it better than I did. Try a google search.

 

[Danno1]

....Planning on filling all the back wall blocks with concrete, and side walls every other one....

1. I'm concerned with the back wall and structural integrity, any additional strength features I can add to offset all the ground against the wall?

Put re-bar in the block cavities bef you fill them.


.

 

[srs]

Put re-bar in the block cavities bef you fill them.


.

I second Danno1 about putting rebar in the block cavities. It will add a lot of strength to the wall.

 

[Dog Lover]

Really nice looking work. :thumbsup:A big job for sure. It is neat to see when people get a backhoe, they seem to find a way to do projects they would never have tackled at all...I know I have done several too. I like your sidewalks for sure! Keep the pics coming....

 

[frwinks]

busy man:thumbsup:
having just dealt with block walls myself, one thing that our PEng. suggested, to add tensile strength to our 50' wall were bond beams (hollowed out course of block with horizontal rebar/concrete) half way up the wall.
A little after the fact for you (as it was in my case as well). His other suggestion was the one I opted for... vertical rebar runs, filled cores and stone backfill to grade.
g/l

ps, ditto on the upstairs entrance

 

[Iowachild]

I am very interested in this project as I hope to build in a similar situation, however mine would be four foot walls with frame construction on top of that and a gambrel second story. My question is how deep is the footer in the front of the building?

BTW I think an entry to the second level from the rear ground level would very handy to have.

 

[zman007007]

JimmyJ, I see you have a quote from Carl Sandberg on your posts. My oldest daughter lives only about 7 to 8 miles from where his house is, he lived in, in Flat Rock, N.C. zman

 

[scoutcub]

Great input, thanks gents! The cavities have been re-barred and poured. Pics are on the way.
I think I will go with the outside entrance, and it seems to be strongly supported here. That will also allow me to have a door with a window, letting in more light from the south.

Maclawn - the block is tarred with a roller to waterproof it. As an added measure, I've used buttonboard on the back wall. Will get some pics of that as well.

Mike - the footers in the front of the garage are 40" deep. You can see the depth on the sides and back are minimal, since they will be well below grade.

 

[MacLawn]

Great input, thanks gents! The cavities have been re-barred and poured. Pics are on the way.
I think I will go with the outside entrance, and it seems to be strongly supported here. That will also allow me to have a door with a window, letting in more light from the south.

Maclawn - the block is tarred with a roller to waterproof it. As an added measure, I've used buttonboard on the back wall. Will get some pics of that as well.

Mike - the footers in the front of the garage are 40" deep. You can see the depth on the sides and back are minimal, since they will be well below grade.

Looking good, scout! On the third photo above, what is the painted-looking line on the right side of the blocks sloping down about ground level? Is that some kind of water proofing? Sorry to keep harping on the water seeping in issue, but, man, have I seen some water problems with below grade concrete/blocks, etc. If you build below grade, you MUST make sure no water will seep in. I think you are covering it with the drain you mentioned, and definitely sloping the grade away from the wall will help, but water does have a way of its own... Keep the post and photos comin'.

What is buttonboard? Some kind of water proofing?

 

[scoutcub]

Blocks filled in. 2nd picture shows the buttonboard. The waterproofing company used it on the cracked wall on the house, so I decided to add it to the back wall of the shop. Just another soldier against water!

Maclawn - yes, the black angling line is waterproofing. With solid drain pipe, (holes on top) and backfilling gravel all the way up the block, it should give the water a way out and away from the foundation.

Last pics are a little brickwork to match the house.

 

[kebo]

Thanks for the comments! I'm really at odds on how to access the loft storage.....I like the fact of being able to access from inside, but it will take up quite a bit of space....the outside access is appealing to walk straight in.....I'm thinking perhaps an outside entrance, with a vertical wall ladder on the back wall, to minimize space lost?

If I were you, I would consider a small balcony on the very front and center just for the enjoyment, with a door of course that opened into the upstairs. It doesn't help you get access to the upstairs from the ground though (unless you figured out someway to build some stairs up to it.

Nice project though, I'm sure you'll get it all figured out in the end. Good luck, and thanks for sharing it!

 

[scoutcub]

Back-filling the walls with gravel.....

 

[rd_macgregor]

With all the attention you've paid to drainage and sealing, your walls will probably be OK. Particularly for a long run of wall, one or more deadman anchors can help prevent buckling. Alternatively one or more buttresses on the inside of the wall can brace it (but break up the smooth wall run). Here is a discussion of some of the issues and solutions:
Retaining wall - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

One of your pics shows a huge, paved parking lot just below the house. You must throw really big parties; its nice of you to provide paved parking for your guests...or maybe that's contractor parking?!!

BOB

 

[scoutcub]

With all the attention you've paid to drainage and sealing, your walls will probably be OK. Particularly for a long run of wall, one or more deadman anchors can help prevent buckling. Alternatively one or more buttresses on the inside of the wall can brace it (but break up the smooth wall run). Here is a discussion of some of the issues and solutions:
Retaining wall - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

One of your pics shows a huge, paved parking lot just below the house. You must throw really big parties; its nice of you to provide paved parking for your guests...or maybe that's contractor parking?!!

BOB

Bob - tks for the link - good info!

The parking lot is for the golf course right across from me....gets to be a bit aggravating listening to all the happy chatter and knocking balls around when I'm on the hill slaving away!

 

[5030tinkerer]

Something to consider with the buttonboard (www.platon.com, btw, and for sale at Menards around here anyway) - mine tore at the top edge from settling against it. No mention of this possibility from the manufacturer. :/

It's looks like it's maybe too late now, but I'd think about backfilling in lifts, running a compactor after each course.