Pole building construction pictures

[Lt CHEG]

You should be able to a 24 x 30 for a very reasonable cost. The 24 foot trusses are the mose economical ones to buy. I had package prices of 10k to 11k from Menards, Lowes and Home Depot for a 36 x 56. I would think a 24 x 30 would be around 5k if you build it yourself. 24 foot trusses are very easy to handle even by yourself.

Well that sounds like music to my (and my wife's ) ears. The shed we were looking at was going to be about $16,000. It was very nicely constructed and my wife liked the extra storage offered on the second level. But ultimately if we just took the upstairs and put it next to the place where I would like to park the tractor and mowing deck, I think we'd end up spending much less and still ending up with the same storage space. More accurately I'd probably just inherit the entire space and use the area as a workshop and the area that I would have had for my tools in the basement will be the storage area instead.

 

[ElDorado]

Around here purlins are laid flat. How in the heck did they keep those purlins on edge and maintain the structural integrity to handle to snow load? I am always trying to learn and I can't figure out how they won't flop down. Please enlighten me.

Oh, by the way... I am jealous, nice spot for your "stuff", enjoy.

Matt

 

[smfcpacfp]

smfcpacfp,

I really like your building. I'm thinking that it may be more affordable for me to build a single story two bay wide storage shed and workshop to house my tractor, ATV, snowmobiles, and miscellaneous storage than to build or have built the large two story shed that I was originally planning. My wife really fell in love with one of those 16 x 30 Amish built 2 story sheds that we saw while leaf peeping, but man are they pricey. I'm thinking that I could get just as much storage space out of a building such as yours for much less money. If you don't mind my asking, could you give us a ball park figure on what we could expect to spend on a building such as yours? Thanks and congratulations on a great project.

SteveC built his own. I had mine built. It is 30 by 48 in a high snow area. My cost for just what you see is $27,000. I am going to do my own electrical and landscaping, but when the shop is done, probably close to $31,000.

 

[smfcpacfp]

Around here purlins are laid flat. How in the heck did they keep those purlins on edge and maintain the structural integrity to handle to snow load? I am always trying to learn and I can't figure out how they won't flop down. Please enlighten me.

Oh, by the way... I am jealous, nice spot for your "stuff", enjoy.

Matt

They toe nailed them and then nailed them straight thru. It looks a little unstable to me, but they build a lot of buildings up here. I just hope the company knows what they are doing.

 

[Steve C]

SteveC built his own. I had mine built. It is 30 by 48 in a high snow area. My cost for just what you see is $27,000. I am going to do my own electrical and landscaping, but when the shop is done, probably close to $31,000.

With the concrete work that is a very good price. I re-used my fire damaged slab and just had to add to it to keep the cost down. I spent about $400 on patch material and paint to make the old slab less ugly. I had to spend $1600to have it extended to the perimeter of the new barn.

I didn't build my building. I had mine built also. There is no way I could handle the 40 foot clear span trusses to the top of 14 foot walls by myself in a timely manner with the equipment I have available, myself and a couple of ladders.....

I did figure out a way to do it by myself but it would have taken me a long time to set the 31 trusses and walk them into place, so I optioned out of the building process. The snow load in our area is much less than where you are, I think it is only about 40# per square foot. My building was designed to handle 60#

I think you got a good value on your building considering the load it is designed to carry. The members in your trusses are much larger in both the top cord and the bottom cord and since they are spanning only 30 feet they should be quite stout.

One of my old barns had the trusses on 4 foot centers and because of that the trusses had a lot of 2x6 and 2x8 members in them and looked very strong. My new barn has only 2x4 members in the trusses even though they are on 24 inch centers it still makes me wonder...have you ever seen a 40 foot 2 x 4 ?? I hope those engineers know what they are doing....

This is what they look like. I can't imagine going through the colapse of a building such as you have, it wouldn't be as bad as a fire, there is still stuff left allthough it might be bent and broken but it would still make a person kind of jumpy when the snow starts to fly.

Every day I come home and as I come over the hill I just have to look...is the barn still there???? One stinking little fire in 60 years...that is all I need.

While the contractors built my barn I re-built the south wall of my house that had melted. That is the only part of the barn project other than the back filling of the new slab that I was involved with ( not shown in these photo's these were taken before the additional slabs were poured.) I had to build a scaffold to access the top floor to replace the windows and siding. It took me longer to rebuild the south end of my house than it did for them to rebuild my barn. But hey it is only me and I am 60 years old!!

 

[Lt CHEG]

SteveC built his own. I had mine built. It is 30 by 48 in a high snow area. My cost for just what you see is $27,000. I am going to do my own electrical and landscaping, but when the shop is done, probably close to $31,000.

Thank you and SteveC for your help in this regard. I'm not going to be building anything until at least next spring or summer, but my wife likes to see numbers and crunch them before we do anything. I'm thinking that the size building I'm considering I should be able to get what I want done for around $10,000, at least now. That's with me doing the lions share of the work of course. My building won't be nearly as large and our snow load isn't quite that much (man that's some lumber in those trusses). I can also live with a crusher run floor in most of the space too instead of the poured concrete, at least for a while. Thanks again for your insight, and again congrats on some nice barns.

 

[yooperdave]

I have the joy of building another pole barn in the U.P. this year also.

Mine is 56' x 74' x 12' including a couple of 13' x 56' lean to shed roofs.

I had to go with an 8' column spacing.

I used a local firm - they are taking longer, but with minimal problems as I had encountered with Cleary's Escanaba office.

My price was in the $32,000 range. I did supply 1 overhead door, and 3 windows though.

Yooper Dave

 

[dave1949]

I have the joy of building another pole barn in the U.P. this year also.

Mine is 56' x 74' x 12' including a couple of 13' x 56' lean to shed roofs.

I had to go with an 8' column spacing.

I used a local firm - they are taking longer, but with minimal problems as I had encountered with Cleary's Escanaba office.

My price was in the $32,000 range. I did supply 1 overhead door, and 3 windows though.

Yooper Dave

That's going to be a good looking building! The lean-tos on each side give a great balanced look.
Dave.

 

[Steve C]

I have the joy of building another pole barn in the U.P. this year also.

Mine is 56' x 74' x 12' including a couple of 13' x 56' lean to shed roofs.

I had to go with an 8' column spacing.

I used a local firm - they are taking longer, but with minimal problems as I had encountered with Cleary's Escanaba office.

My price was in the $32,000 range. I did supply 1 overhead door, and 3 windows though.

Yooper Dave

Nice barn.

It is interesting to see the different construction used in different areas. Down here in central Michign most pole barns are built with trusses on 4 foot centers and the roof purlins nailed on flat if they have steel roofs, or trusses on 2 foot centers with OSB decking with shingles.

If they nailed the purlins on standing on edge like your building it would sure make for a stronger roof without any additional cost for the steel roofed buildings. If I ever build one with a steel roof I am going to have the purlins standing upright. They probably put them on flat down here because they go on much faster that way.

 

[Steve C]

That's not too bad at all. I'd be looking at maybe 24x30 max. Anything bigger would look out of place, and frankly property taxes are so high in the town that I bought land in that I don't want anything too big and fancy further increasing my taxes. I could probably do 20x30 for $12000 to $15000 then even if I went with T111 siding instead of the steel siding, especially if I did all the labor (except maybe for setting the trusses).

This is on our local Craigs List
MUST SELL 4750.00 or BEST OFFER
24'x32'x12' Pole Barn Package
Orignal design and material list to be an attached garage but can be built to be a stand alone building
6x6X16 post
18 bags concrete
(16 ) 24' 4/12 trusses w/ 1' overhang could go to 4' oc and could build up to 56ft long
2x4 perlins
7/16 osb for wall sheeting
2x12 carriers
2x6 fascia
Beige vinyl siding with all accessories aluminum solid and vented soffit/fascia 1ft overhang eves & gable
Max Rib green roofing w/screws and accessories
3/0x6/8 six panel service door w/ gallon white exterior paint
Pole barn nails , 25# 16d / 25#8d / 1#16 casing 6 tubes white caulk.
Paid over $ 6,000.00 for package make a reasonable offer.
For more info please call 517-726-0473 after 6:00 or leave message and number

 

[smfcpacfp]

I have the joy of building another pole barn in the U.P. this year also.

Mine is 56' x 74' x 12' including a couple of 13' x 56' lean to shed roofs.

I had to go with an 8' column spacing.

I used a local firm - they are taking longer, but with minimal problems as I had encountered with Cleary's Escanaba office.

My price was in the $32,000 range. I did supply 1 overhead door, and 3 windows though.

Yooper Dave

Did this cost include concrete? Your building has 279% of the square footage of mine, so I assume not.

 

[Lt CHEG]

This is on our local Craigs List
MUST SELL 4750.00 or BEST OFFER
24'x32'x12' Pole Barn Package
Orignal design and material list to be an attached garage but can be built to be a stand alone building
6x6X16 post
18 bags concrete
(16 ) 24' 4/12 trusses w/ 1' overhang could go to 4' oc and could build up to 56ft long
2x4 perlins
7/16 osb for wall sheeting
2x12 carriers
2x6 fascia
Beige vinyl siding with all accessories aluminum solid and vented soffit/fascia 1ft overhang eves & gable
Max Rib green roofing w/screws and accessories
3/0x6/8 six panel service door w/ gallon white exterior paint
Pole barn nails , 25# 16d / 25#8d / 1#16 casing 6 tubes white caulk.
Paid over $ 6,000.00 for package make a reasonable offer.
For more info please call 517-726-0473 after 6:00 or leave message and number

Well that's good to know, especially considering that this has OSB sheeting and vinyl siding. It seems that unless property taxes really kill me with one building style versus the other that the one story, two stall pole barn is the only way to go. I'll have to start making phone calls to the tax assessor for some answers to help in our planning. Thanks for the help.

 

[smfcpacfp]

I rented a trenching tool to dig the 55 foot, 26" deep trench for the power to my building and one word would describe my experience - #$#&* . Roots and soft soil made the job unfun to say the least, about as much as having to clear 3 feet of hard packed snow off of my 12 by 12 pitched house roof.

 

[Steve C]

Well that's good to know, especially considering that this has OSB sheeting and vinyl siding. It seems that unless property taxes really kill me with one building style versus the other that the one story, two stall pole barn is the only way to go. I'll have to start making phone calls to the tax assessor for some answers to help in our planning. Thanks for the help.

I just bought 40 sheets of 7/16 OSB to replace what I lost in my fire. I am going to re-roof my house next year and plan on putting this on top of the existing 80 year old wide board sheeting.

It was on sale for $4.49 cents a sheet at Home Depot. I used a lowes 10% off coupon so I ended up paying $4.05 a sheet for it. They must be selling it near the cost of production just to keep the mills running. I have never seen it this inexpensive in the last 20 years.

 

[jcaron2]

I rented a trenching tool to dig the 55 foot, 26" deep trench for the power to my building and one word would describe my experience - #$#&* . Roots and soft soil made the job unfun to say the least, about as much as having to clear 3 feet of hard packed snow of my 12 by 12 pitched house roof.

I don't know if you saw my post about running water and power to my barn, but I had to do 700 feet of trench. Not fun, to say the least. I ended up making a bunch of passes with a subsoiler connected to my tractor, then I dug it out by hand. I have a bunch more water and drainage lines to run, so I'll probably rent a mini-excavator. I wish I had a backhoe on my tractor.

 

[Diamondpilot]

They toe nailed them and then nailed them straight thru. It looks a little unstable to me, but they build a lot of buildings up here. I just hope the company knows what they are doing.

Here in Northern Indiana we put the purlins on end also to handle the load. I built my barn in 2003. Its 32x52. Did it that way to handle 4x8 sheets since I used vinyl siding and dimensional shingles. I did a 16x20 shop that is heated by electric along with a bath room and a on demand water heater. The only thing I kick myself over is not going 14' tall. I only went 12' and there are tons fo things that will not fit through the 20'x12' slider.

By the way you guys have Very Nice buildings!

Chris

 

[chipsndust]

smfcpacfp:

That's a very nice building and great pictures, thanks for posting. First time I've seen the purlins on end like that.

I thought this was interesting: According to R. Bruce Hoadley, "Understanding Wood", load bearing capacity of a beam will vary directly as the square of the depth. In other words, if you double the depth, it will carry four times as much weight.

You can tell the guys who live in snow country, it amazes me how many buildings I see with the doors under the eaves, instead of in the gable ends like yours.

 

[Steve C]

Here in Northern Indiana we put the purlins on end also to handle the load. I built my barn in 2003. Its 32x52. Did it that way to handle 4x8 sheets since I used vinyl siding and dimensional shingles. I did a 16x20 shop that is heated by electric along with a bath room and a on demand water heater. The only thing I kick myself over is not going 14' tall. I only went 12' and there are tons fo things that will not fit through the 20'x12' slider.

By the way you guys have Very Nice buildings!



Chris

I see you have a Stanley cross cutting guide hanging above your miter saw. I have one also. It is the best piece of plastic I have ever purchased.

 

[smfcpacfp]

I don't know if you saw my post about running water and power to my barn, but I had to do 700 feet of trench. Not fun, to say the least. I ended up making a bunch of passes with a subsoiler connected to my tractor, then I dug it out by hand. I have a bunch more water and drainage lines to run, so I'll probably rent a mini-excavator. I wish I had a backhoe on my tractor.

You look like a kid. I had to get the trenching back to the rental place sooner than I wanted, so my wife and I finished grading the trench my hand yesterday. I can barely move today. It is tough getting old.

 

[jcaron2]

You look like a kid. I had to get the trenching back to the rental place sooner than I wanted, so my wife and I finished grading the trench my hand yesterday. I can barely move today. It is tough getting old.

LOL. Believe me, I understand. I'm pushing 40 and can already feel a huge difference from five years ago. I know it only gets worse. I've spent much of the last six months being unable to move for most of the week, only to turn around and do it again the following weekend.

As far as putting purlins on edge, I built my previous barn that way (only half the size of the current one) when I lived in Florida. All of the purlins were connected to the trusses with Simpson H1 brackets (around $0.70 each at HD or Lowes). I did this primarily for hurricane resistance, but they worked great for keeping the purlins upright. You might even be able to get away with just one bracket per purlin and just toenail the rest of the purlin/truss connections, especially if the purlins overlap each other so they can't twist independently.

Here's a shot from underneath on the my old barn, where you can see the brackets I'm talking about.