Grapple Grapple Remove Valve Question - ASAP

[NonTypicalCPA]

I need help. I am purchasing a grapple for my Kubota L3940 that does not currently have any rear remote valves. The dealer I purchased the grapple from recommended adding a rear remote and running hydraulic lines from the rear up to the front for the grapple. A different dealer recommended instead adding a electro-hydraulic remote valve on the side of the tractor (3rd function valve he said?) With this system, you replace the original joystick with a new one that also will now control the grapple. The benefit being that you don't have to remove your hand from the joystick to operate the grapple.

Which one do I want??? My lack of tractor knowlege leads me to believe that the electro-hydraulic remote valve is the way to go. Thanks for your help. The dealer needs to order parts soon so any responses will be greatly appreciated.

 

[kernal]

I just finished installing the WR Long selector valve kit over the weekend. It works very well. press the button to control the grapple, release and return to the loader function. The 3rd scv kit is not yet available for my JD 2320 so I really didn't have an option. If you call WR Long and speak with Nelson he will get you exactly what you need. I also recommend getting quick couplers from him. I did not because I was unsure of exactly how I was going do things. In hindsight I could have gotten the connectors and saved having the ends of 1 set of lines changed...

I need to post some pictures of the setup, Kennyd also has a thread on a setup he did and recommended WR Long.

Just make sure you use a 12V wire, and not a 6V, see my other post....

 

[Farmerford]

I just sent you a private message.

 

[3RRL]

I need help. I am purchasing a grapple for my Kubota L3940 that does not currently have any rear remote valves. The dealer I purchased the grapple from recommended adding a rear remote and running hydraulic lines from the rear up to the front for the grapple. A different dealer recommended instead adding a electro-hydraulic remote valve on the side of the tractor (3rd function valve he said?) With this system, you replace the original joystick with a new one that also will now control the grapple. The benefit being that you don't have to remove your hand from the joystick to operate the grapple.

Which one do I want??? My lack of tractor knowledge leads me to believe that the electro-hydraulic remote valve is the way to go. Thanks for your help. The dealer needs to order parts soon so any responses will be greatly appreciated.

Personally, I would go with the third function valve and I did exactly that. Although there are lots of guys who do use and like using their rear remotes to control their grapples. I just find it easier and more natural to use the joystick like your dealer suggested. Plus it leaves the rear remotes open for other hydraulics to the rear.
Here's a link to my installation using the WR Long valve.
Tatro Grapple with WR Long Valve

 

[M4800Man]

On my Kubota the rear remote handle is quite long and ends up quite close to the loader joystick. (about a foot and a half away) I think the rear remotes were 200 or something installed. You will probably end up with something to use them for in the future so why not try the rear remotes first?

 

[skipro3]

There's a problem using an electric solenoid to operate a third function valve. It's fine for running a grapple where you will only have the electric solenoid energized for a few seconds at a time, but, what if you want to, say, run a post hole digger off your front end? (If you have a quick connect FEL, it's a nice way to add a post hole digger) or any other attachment where the electric solenoid would be energized for several minutes at a time? That solenoid won't last too long, that's what! Also, as soon as you divert power to the 3rd function, the pressure isn't going to any of the other functions. You can only operate one function at a time.

It also is quite expensive way to go. I took the rear spool and just had some long hoses installed. Now I have the hydraulics up front to run anything I want for as long as I want without worrying about the relay burning up from holding it energized for too long....

 

[IslandTractor]

There is no single correct answer to your delimma, both dealers gave reasonable advice. I've used both a diverter valve (WRLong) and rear remotes to control a grapple. Electrohydraulic would be a step up in cost and functionality from a diverter valve. I like both the rear remote and the diverter. My quibbles with the diverter valve would be resolved by an electrohydraulic switch which I've not personally used but think is the cleanest and most intuitive.

If cash is not an issue I guess I'd go with the electrohydraulic set up for it's flexibility and (post installation) simplicity. However, I'd guess it will cost you something over $700 for the kit (maybe less if you source the parts yourself) plus a half a day to install it so those are considerations too.

Using rear remotes is really very simple and as you will eventually want a set of remotes anyway it has always seemed a logical first step to me. The cost of installing a set of rear remotes is usually less than $400-500 for parts (depends on tractor color) and installation of the valves is not complex but again would take half a day. If your tractor already has a set of rear remotes it is almost a no brainer to give that system a try for grapple control. Other than the rear remote all you need is a couple of long hydraulic hoses with couplers (which you'd need anyway for the diverter or electrohydraulic set up) and some zipties to hold the hoses in place under the tractor. If you decide later to switch to electrohydraulic you can reuse the hoses (you'll need to have them cut to smaller sizes and have some extra fittings attached at a local hydraulic shop or dealer(cheap money).

 

[stowester]

I have a 3540 with a home made grapple. I use my rear remote with hoses run to the loader. It works OK but I think the OEM third loader valve would work better. The 2 levers can be tough when trying to grab, hold and lift.

I also use the rear remote for a dump trailer or sickle mower so economics drove my system.

Here's a link with some pic of my install.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/124018-my-tbn-inspired-grapple-bucket.html


Dean

 

[NonTypicalCPA]

Thanks for the quick responses everyone. A lot of good information for me to consider. I think as a first step I'm going to go the rear remote option and give that a try. It sounds like I can change to the third function valve at a later time if necessary.

Again, thanks for the responses. What a great site for information!

 

[3RRL]

Like a dummy, I missed the part that you didn't have rear remotes yet either.
My post was thinking that you did. No excuse for a ******, but while you have your hydraulic system apart, you might as well install both the rear remotes (at least 2 sets) and the true third function dual solenoid electric over hydraulic valve and switch on the joystick to control your up front grapple or whatever. There are motor spool solenoid switches available if you want to run a hydraulic motor. I don't have a hydraulic PHD so I just got the open center solenoid valve to rum my grapples. I know it's only money, but it would give best of both worlds and complete your tractor set up for everything hydraulic you need (pretty much).
Doing it all your self can save you big $$$ ...just takes time and a little parts scrounging. But all that info is readily available.

 

[pitt_md]

Thanks for the quick responses everyone. A lot of good information for me to consider. I think as a first step I'm going to go the rear remote option and give that a try. It sounds like I can change to the third function valve at a later time if necessary.

Again, thanks for the responses. What a great site for information!

I run my grapple from the rear remote and don't have any problems using it. Since I use my MX5000 for some ag work with implements that require a rear remote it was a no brainer for me.

 

[texbaylea]

I run my grapple from the rear remotes and have no problems with it. Now I have mine teed so that there are front outlets and rear outlets. I have yet to run into a situation where I have an implements on both the front and rear that I need to operate at the same time. Plus with 3 remotes I have more flexibility.

Vernon

 

[NonTypicalCPA]

Well I changed my mind this morning and went with the electro hydraulic 3rd function valve. I don't have a need for rear remotes at this time and being able to control the grapple from the joystick pushed me over the edge.

I'll be using the grapple on over 300 tree tops on my property, so it should get a workout. I burn wood in an outdoor boiler (cats meow!) and am trying to perfect my wood retrieval method. The last item on my "need" list is a 12' dump trailer ($$ ouch!).

Again, thanks for all the input.

 

[kennyd]

There's a problem using an electric solenoid to operate a third function valve. It's fine for running a grapple where you will only have the electric solenoid energized for a few seconds at a time, but, what if you want to, say, run a post hole digger off your front end? (If you have a quick connect FEL, it's a nice way to add a post hole digger) or any other attachment where the electric solenoid would be energized for several minutes at a time? That solenoid won't last too long, that's what! Also, as soon as you divert power to the 3rd function, the pressure isn't going to any of the other functions. You can only operate one function at a time.

It also is quite expensive way to go. I took the rear spool and just had some long hoses installed. Now I have the hydraulics up front to run anything I want for as long as I want without worrying about the relay burning up from holding it energized for too long....

This is so not true! A solenoid operated diverter will NOT burn up if operated for more than a few seconds...

 

[skipro3]

This is so not true! A solenoid operated diverter will NOT burn up if operated for more than a few seconds...

When I asked my tractor dealer how long I could hold that relay engergized, he told me that he's replaced many of them when they are held for several minutes at a time and that I should only consider using a relay controlled valve if it is only being held up with current for a few seconds at a time and certainly not more than a minute contineous. He talked me out of the expensive solution and recommended the rerouted rear spool using long hoses. It saved me hundreds of $$'s that he could have made selling me the diverter and setting it up. I'm thinking he knows due to his experiance since I'm new at all this.

If it were me, I would certainly ask the question; how long can I hold in the relay and what is the warranty on it?