Pump wiring for fuel station

[quarencia]

I started yet another project today. That brings the total active projects to just under the size of the national debt! But this one is different. It is designed to make finishing the other projects easier.

I'm putting a diesel pump on one of my hho tanks to fuel the tractor. I'm REALLY tired of carrying 5 gallon cans! I'm going to put the pump in the basement just above the tank. This will cut down on suction height. Plan to run pipe through hole in foundation (already there) and attach ball valve, hose, and nozzle outside. Will also mount outdoor switch to turn pump on.

It's a 10 Amp, 12 volt pump that I plan to power with an old computer power supply. If you don't know, these are switching power supplies and most of them (i.e. the ones I have) are good for 25 amps at 12 volts.

Have some experimenting to do before I settle on final electrical connections. I want to just switch the 110 on to the power supply and leave the pump connected and on at all times. If the PS can handle the pump load during it's startup, that's the way I plan to run it. If the PS shuts down with the load on startup, then I'll have to switch them independently. Switch 110V first, then a separate switch for 12V to pump.

So my deal with TBN'ers is this. Provide any pertinent details on safest wiring for this arrangement and I'll post pictures when I'm done.

 

[EddieWalker]

Interesting idea.

I installed a towing wire harness onto my tractor, and plug my pump into it when I want to power the pump. Each tractor has the same harness, so it works with everything.

Keep an eye out for discoutn coupons for Tractor Supply. They seem to send them out for every holiday.

Eddie

 

[LBrown59]

Have some experimenting to do before I settle on final electrical connections. I want to just switch the 110 on to the power supply and leave the pump connected and on at all times. If the PS can handle the pump load during it's startup, that's the way I plan to run it. If the PS shuts down with the load on startup, then I'll have to switch them independently. Switch 110V first, then a separate switch for 12V to pump.

Here is how I did mine.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/oil-fuel-lubricants/122497-heres-mine-wheres-yours.html

 

[wedge40]

The only thing I can think of would be timing circuit that would auto shut off the pump after some time. Say five minutes. This way you never have to worry about forgetting to turn the pump off.

Wedge

 

[LBrown59]

This way you never have to worry about forgetting to turn the pump off.

Wedge

As loud as those pumps are it would be hard to forget to shut it off.

 

[schmism]

on the computer PSU, jumper the green to a black to turn it on, just leave the paperclip wedged in there all the time and use a normal light switch for the 110.

 

[LBrown59]

Use a normal light switch for the 110.

here's photos of the light switch I used to power the wall outlet the Battery Charger is pluged into.

 

[schmism]

forgot the photos

 

[quarencia]

The PC PSU is an AT model with power switch on PSU. No remote power switch wires to jump. I had thought about using a battery charger, but even a used 10 amp charger was infinitely more expensive than the FREE PC PSU that was laying in the pile of old computer parts.

If I wasn't clear in my original post, the pump will be in the basement with the HHO tank. The nozzle and switch for the pump will be mounted outside. I'll probably put a post in the ground to mount the nozzle and switch on with a small cover to keep rainfall and dew at bay. I was most curious if there were any explosion proof wiring considerations to be aware of with the pump mounted inside above the tank.

I'm also considering using the piping as the pump mount. It's good enough for circulators on hydronic heating systems, so I'm thinking it's good enough for the diesel pump, but I'm still thinking that one through. Below is picture of pump we've all seen here before. The fittings are 3/4" pipe thread and look beefy enough to support the pump weight (11 lb).

 

[LBrown59]

1*I had thought about using a battery charger, but even a used 10 amp charger was infinitely more expensive than the FREE PC PSU that was laying in the pile of old computer parts.
2*I'm also considering using the piping as the pump mount. It's good enough for circulators on hydronic heating systems, so I'm thinking it's good enough for the diesel pump,
3*Below is picture of pump we've all seen here before. The fittings are 3/4" pipe thread and look beefy enough to support the pump weight (11 lb).

1*I used the charger because it was what I already had on hand.
2*I put the pump on a shelf because the drum is plastic not steel and besides that I didn't want the drum to be top heavy to move around empty with the pump and fittings on top of it.
You can mount the pump either way/your call.
3*Just exactly like my pump.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Have you taken into considertion fumes from the tank in the basement? Fumes from any fuel are more dangerous than the fuel itself. Also some sort of time out are fuel sensor would be a real benefit. Even if the pump is noisy you get called to the phone or something and leave that running you are going to have problems. Sounds like a great project though. Just plan some default protection into the system for fumes and shutting it down.
As far as weather proofing and sparks. Maybe use the outdoor rated power boxes and switch like those used around hot tubs and swimming pools. I did that for my fountains and filters on my fish pond.

 

[quarencia]

I thought about the fumes arrived at the conclusion that there shouldn't be any. The tanks are two standard 275 gallon fuel oil tanks in series. These are the tanks that supply the furnace with heating oil. The 2" inch fill pipe and 1.5" vent pipe are already piped through the foundation for filling. I installed a double tap bushing in the two inch bung on the second tank. The suction pipe is in the bottom tap on the double tap bushing extending down into the tank to about five inches from bottom. The top tap will have 3/4" black pipe running to pump and from the pump out through the foundation to the hose and nozzle. With the double tap bushing, the whole thing is sealed tight. Biggest leak risk is if ceramic or rubber pump seals fail.

Plan was to install a sealed outdoor 110V power switch to turn on pump. But some of the replies here have convinced me to use some type of timer. A two minute timer should work for pump output at about six foot of head.

Will research outdoor timers and see what I come up with.

 

[Berniep]

Before you get too far along I would make sure the power supply will put out the juice. I needed a 10 amp supply and had trouble finding one that would put out that much even though they are rated higher.