Your last generator Maintenance Run

[3930dave]

Was just offered a 20KW 120/340 60hz generator 'head' for $250. "NIB"
Ratings are at 1800 RPM.
I can see this running from my tractor as I have a 1000 rpm PTO setting.
My CUT delivers some 18 HP at the PTO but would need to double that rpm.

Shame is that 5-6 years ago a friend gave me a nice diesel engine (weighed 300 lbs) that would have been a perfect match.
But not having a use at the time I traded the diesel for a NIB 8 hp Honda.

The unit offered is from a very highly rated Chinese factory, (did research them) that have all the certificates etc.

Actually he has 2 unite, (still in crates)

Thinking, thinking-------
We have frequent outages where I live and for that reason I have a coupled 6 KW to handle those issues but have to rely on wood for heat .
With this generator I could have total back up.
Mind U our hydro is fairly responsive and only once on last 12 years were we out more than a 1/2 day.
Thinking, thinking-------
If I were 10 yrs younger It would be, no question.

You'd lose a bit through a gearbox, but that head would give you a nice jump in capacity.

Nice project, if you feel like building a doubler.

Rgds, D.

 

[3930dave]

I was looking for a water-resistant charger, at 3+amps.

Not a lot of bells/whistles, but 6amps, IP67, delivered to my door for $51 Canadian.... Sold.

Robot Check

BLACK+DECKER BC6BDW , in case that link acts up.

Time will tell how well bonded they are, but I like the rubber wrap bumpers - adds some protection, and act as stand-offs on a flat surface (helps thermal).

This shipped with the 2 primary connectors; I'll make or buy the ring-terminal one.

Rgds, D.

Charged an in-place RV battery with this new charger this weekend.

The green Full LED seems to have at least 2 stages to it. Before it gets to the output-relay-slowly-cycling final stage (rough measurements posted earlier), the green light initiates at some slightly lower voltage.

At another, less Winter-out-there, time, I'll see if I can roughly meter the initial trigger voltage level for Green light = On.

With DC plugs on the cord already, I should take a low cost panel meter and throw it into a small project box inline with the DC cord...... on that long list of mine.......

Anyway, just an fyi/self-note...... with this charger, wait until the output relay cycles, before terminating the charging.....

Rgds, D.

 

[shaeff]

Mine is wired to the panel and on a cheap HF plastic dolly that only two of four wheels pivot. I roll it to the edge of my shed (basement extension) to be sure the exhaust vents outside.

Really need to fab a custom dolly. I have the casters and the metal... just need to draw up a plan and weld it together. A hood would be a nice option. That project just keeps falling lower on the priority list.

Weight of mine is about 375lbs before fluids. With no dolly it’s a struggle to move by myself. I rely on my tractor to help me move it. It stays on the pallet, I just slide my forks into it. A doghouse is the best option for me.

Side note- I just found out that this genny is a bonded neutral, now I gotta figure out if I need to break that bond for my setup (4 wire, two hots, neutral, ground) or if it’s ok to run it to my panel like that. The 240v outlet isn’t a GFI so it *should* be ok wired as is, but I need to do more research. Cloudy subject.

Side note2- tested output yesterday, only getting 100v from the 120v outlets, and only 200v from the 240v outlets. This is a brushless gen head, so I pulled the 55uF capacitor, measured it on my multi meter and it’s only showing 25uF. Porter Cable discontinued the caps, so I found one that very closely matched on Amazon. I’ll wire that in and retest my output. Hoping that fixes the voltage issue.

I’m getting 5v to the capacitor which makes me believe that the gen head is still good. (3-5v is what it’s supposed to be)

 

[aczlan]

Side note- I just found out that this genny is a bonded neutral, now I gotta figure out if I need to break that bond for my setup (4 wire, two hots, neutral, ground) or if it’s ok to run it to my panel like that. The 240v outlet isn’t a GFI so it *should* be ok wired as is, but I need to do more research. Cloudy subject.

There should ONLY be ONE place where Neutral and Ground are bonded together. If its bonded anywhere else, you need to unbond it on the generator.

Aaron Z

 

[goeduck]

Side note- I just found out that this genny is a bonded neutral, now I gotta figure out if I need to break that bond for my setup (4 wire, two hots, neutral, ground) or if its ok to run it to my panel like that. The 240v outlet isnt a GFI so it *should* be ok wired as is, but I need to do more research. Cloudy subject.

By bonded do you mean it is a 3 wire? The two circuits, plus ground on the plug?

There should ONLY be ONE place where Neutral and Ground are bonded together. If its bonded anywhere else, you need to unbond it on the generator.

In the event of a 3 wire generator (two circuits plus ground at the plug) should you just let the bond at the electrical panel be the bond?

 

[shaeff]

There should ONLY be ONE place where Neutral and Ground are bonded together. If its bonded anywhere else, you need to unbond it on the generator.
Aaron Z

That’s what I assumed, my panel has the neutral bonded with the ground. I was afraid that if I kept the generator as “bonded neutral” that the ground wire could potentially be carrying a much greater load than expected. Thank you for the direct and to the point answer!

By bonded do you mean it is a 3 wire? The two circuits, plus ground on the plug?

In the event of a 3 wire generator (two circuits plus ground at the plug) should you just let the bond at the electrical panel be the bond?

The plug is four wire, but on the end of the generator head in faded writing it says “neutral bonded to frame” which I assume means bonded to ground since the frame is also ground.

The plug is a 14-50. Pics attached.

I have the panel wired to the generator plug as two hot, ground, and neutral. I believe this to be incorrect since my panel has ground and neutral bonded already. I’ll need to break the bond at the generator. Maybe I can put in a lockout switch for use when the generator isn’t powering the house (very unlikely)

Luckily I haven’t used this generator for the house yet. Still sorting the details.

 

[Fallon]

That’s what I assumed, my panel has the neutral bonded with the ground. I was afraid that if I kept the generator as “bonded neutral” that the ground wire could potentially be carrying a much greater load than expected. Thank you for the direct and to the point answer!




The plug is four wire, but on the end of the generator head in faded writing it says “neutral bonded to frame” which I assume means bonded to ground since the frame is also ground.

The plug is a 14-50. Pics attached.

View attachment 588978
View attachment 588979

If the ground is the same gauge as hot or neutral & insulated, you should be safe (can't comment on the to code aspect). The danger comes from having exposed or insufficient wire that overheats or could be touched as a shock hazard.

 

[ultrarunner]

Lots of older electric appliances like ranges and dryers use ground in place of neutral... often for a timer but I have also seen ranges with outlets...

Not aware of any product recalls

 

[aczlan]

That’s what I assumed, my panel has the neutral bonded with the ground. I was afraid that if I kept the generator as “bonded neutral” that the ground wire could potentially be carrying a much greater load than expected. Thank you for the direct and to the point answer!
The plug is four wire, but on the end of the generator head in faded writing it says “neutral bonded to frame” which I assume means bonded to ground since the frame is also ground.
The plug is a 14-50. Pics attached.
I have the panel wired to the generator plug as two hot, ground, and neutral. I believe this to be incorrect since my panel has ground and neutral bonded already. I’ll need to break the bond at the generator. Maybe I can put in a lockout switch for use when the generator isn’t powering the house (very unlikely)
Luckily I haven’t used this generator for the house yet. Still sorting the details.
View attachment 588978
View attachment 588979

I like the lockout switch idea.

If the ground is the same gauge as hot or neutral & insulated, you should be safe (can't comment on the to code aspect). The danger comes from having exposed or insufficient wire that overheats or could be touched as a shock hazard.

That is not why they say only bonding point.
The risk that you run with multiple bonding points is that the neutral breaks and now the ground wire (and the metal frame of anything connected to the ground) gets 120VAC running through it, waiting to shock someone.

Aaron Z

 

[shaeff]

If the ground is the same gauge as hot or neutral & insulated, you should be safe (can't comment on the to code aspect). The danger comes from having exposed or insufficient wire that overheats or could be touched as a shock hazard.

I’m using 6/3 wire. It’s got insulated black, insulated white, insulated red, bare ground. The bare ground isn’t 6 awg like the other three wires, it’s maybe 8 or 10awg, whatever is standard in 6/3 wire. No wires are “exposed” per se, meaning I can’t accidentally touch any of them. Still safe?

Lots of older electric appliances like ranges and dryers use ground in place of neutral... often for a timer but I have also seen ranges with outlets...

Not aware of any product recalls

This I am aware of, my welder falls into this category. I’ve got a 50A receptacle in the basement that’s for just the welder on its own breaker.