YM336D - Started knocking loud while tilling

[grainger12002]

pretty well stated CarDoc-also keep in mind (as you ponder sleeves,pistons,etc)that many of these engines run reasonably well after thousands of hours and under conditions such as Domush has discovered with his.
Love the post and looking fwd to hearing it run ....soon

 

[Car Doc]

pretty well stated CarDoc-also keep in mind (as you ponder sleeves,pistons,etc)that many of these engines run reasonably well after thousands of hours and under conditions such as Domush has discovered with his.
Love the post and looking fwd to hearing it run ....soon

Yeah and thats exactly what I am attempting to do is point out that there are lots of engines with wear on them and like I mentioned I have built plenty of them with less than perfect parts.

What I am trying to do is educate mainly so when he makes up his mind HE feels good about his decisions and WHY .

If I was to be asked what would I do? I would get a ball hone hone the heck out of them. I would get the head rebuilt at a machine shop. I would put rings and bearings in re-use the pistons start it see if the pump and injectors work if not them spend that money thats what I would do.

Quite frankly that is what I have been saying all along just not in words that would steer someone in a direction I want them to go and they may hold against me later because I have no control over a lot of aspects of any on line repair. I have a busy as heck business and I have to stop posting answers quite often and then come back because customers and the phone also take up a bunch of my time let alone make a living at the same time...

 

[Domush]

Car Doc, You want to help me and make a living? The betrayal! :laughing:

BTW, all of the measurements I posted earlier are for the side clearance of the rings, not the ends. I'm not that much of a newbie Not to mention, the ends wouldn't matter anyhow, as I'm replacing them and will have to grind them to fit.

Now that I know what you would do, I feel better knowing I'm doing more than that. I dropped the head by the machine shop today. They estimated a week for it to be done (they looked swamped). Luckily it was only $20! (**** yeah!) They even talked me through removing the cylinder liners to boot.

According to them these Yanmar liners are super easy to knock out, just by using a wooden block from the underside. If that doesn't work, I'll make a tool similar to the homemade one linked to earlier. I wanted to have them machine the bottom of the head, too, but they would have to remove the exhaust manifold, and I don't want to open that Pandora's Box by messing with those manifold bolts. They said they would mark up any high/low spots for me to hand sand, which was awesome of them.

Now I'm just waiting for everything to come back to me, parts and the head. I still want to have the injectors pop tested, but seeing as those are on the head still, that'll be next week.

The tough part is over.. now I just need to reassemble the thing. Until then, I can spend some time fixing the alternator bolt which snapped trying to loosen. If that is the worst error in this rebuild, I'll be very very happy.

 

[Car Doc]

Well I hope the liners come out that easy and all is well with the o-ring bores etc that will be the very best overhaul no doubt. Just as well put new pistons in too since you have guts to attempt the liners.

I always open Pandora's box on projects like this I wasn't wishing that on you is why I am skeptical and cautious doing stuff on a budget sometimes (always in my case) wakes up the bear.

Btw the ring ends will not need anything ground they will fit as is.

 

[Car Doc]

Car Doc, You want to help me and make a living? The betrayal!

Haha I missed that glad to help anytime if I can give me your address so I can send the bill!

No really I was making a point that if short answers got stuff fixed what would we learn? Imo nothing but to ask the right guy every time something breaks and hope he gives the right answer.

I much prefer to know the who what and why so next time I can solve the issues myself and thats how I post answers/help. fwtw :thumbsup:

 

[DABSGT]

Domush

I just finished going over part 1 &part 2 of your restoration. WOW what a great job.

I have enjoyed following your project looks like you will have a great little tractor. Wish I had your talent and patients.

Now you need to get the tranny fixed and it will run for years, can't believe the abuse before you purchased took to the rebuild

 

[Domush]

I tried the "hammer a dowel under the liners" method the machine shop suggested. After a few broken dowels, I decided to head down the home built puller route.

It appears the liners are snugged in there a little bit more than the machine shop guy let on . After fully bending a piece of channel steel, I decided it was time to beef up my liner extractor.

Meet extractor version two. 1/2" plate steel. I drilled two different angles in the bottom plate. Obviously a 3 1/2" plate won't fit directly down a 3 1/4" hole, so the 45 degree angle hole allows the plate to swivel and automatically level out when it comes out the bottom.

No more little fuffy channel steel, meet big grr steel plate. Unfortunately I kept the old 3/8" threaded rod, which stripped under the pressure. So off to the hardware store I went for a 1/2" rod. I was hoping to find a fine threaded rod, but couldn't locally.

Yeah, these things are truly stuck in there. At least now it's moving (you'll notice it is 1/8" up now).

I finally managed to get #2 out. #3 on the other hand.. really stuck in there! I'll have to buy another 1/2" rod. I knew I should have bought extra rod - $2 for a threaded rod.. $4 in gas to get one. sucks.

So close, but still no cigar. I turned those nuts as far as they could go, to the point the rod began turning instead of nuts! Wish someone locally had fine threaded hardened steel rod. This would be a nice universal puller set with a hardened steel threaded rod. Off to town.. again!

 

[284 International]

You work fast, I'm impressed! You're doing a great job documenting your projects. It's inspiring and humbling, all at once. Thanks for sharing.

I like your angled hole in the bottom plate, too. That's clever and simple.

Have you tried tensioning the sleeve puller, then attempting to drive the sleeve out? The combination may be sufficient to pop the sleeve free without bending or breaking your puller. Even driving the rod against the bottom plate should be sufficient.

 

[clemsonfor]

I was going to say like DOC did i dont think those liners are just "gonna tap out with a wood block". Your doing good though. I always buy way more than i need as it will cost me a ton of time and money running the either 7 or 23 miles to the nearest towns depending upon need, time of day.

Punching underneath with your wood under tentsion like 284 suggests i bet works, also alternating banging on the liner directly on top with a hammer and then trying to get a few more turns on the puller.

 

[California]

How about chilling the liner with dry ice?

 

[Car Doc]

Domush,

I am impressed ! :thumbsup:

 

[tcartwri]

He certainly doesn't mess about.

 

[RHemmer]

Best Thread EVER! Super job by all!!!!

 

[Domush]

I just want to say.. Hoye Tractor messed up my entire week. Their package arrived in record time (1 day!), and I was hoping to have a delay so I could actually get some paying work done. Now I'm going to be tempted all week long to work on the tractor some more. What an awful predicament to be in :confused2:! Why, Hoye, why are you so awesomely fast at shipping? :thumbsup:

Tomorrow I'll be pulling the #3 liner and I'll be sure to throw the new liners in the freezer, save myself a headache getting them in. I have quite a bit of cleaning to do where the liners go, rust and goo (what used to be o-rings) and all.. and hopefully I'll find a minute or two for paying stuff, too.

 

[JimRB]

What about two threaded rods instead of 1? A little turn on one then a lttle turn on the other.

 

[kenmac]

I'm going to hate when It comes my turn to do this. I may have to try a little heat from the torch. Or just trade her in

 

[MJPetersen]

:thumbsup:Great example of getting it done. On your puller--that is the weakest dimension of the bar stock. if you had 2 pieces and put them on edge on both sides of the center pull thread, spaced on the ends with a big nut or chunk of something (welded or clamped like that) and use hard washers or a couple of flat washers under the nut you will have a much stronger puller.

Mike

 

[Car Doc]

MJ is right fact I was thinking out loud if a guy could use 3/4 all thread maybe 2 of them and had a machine shop turn down an insert to fit the bottom of the liners.

Or weld a couple thick chunks together that fit that way and have a shoulder to center it.

He could set bar stock pieces on their sides using pipe nipples welded in between like MJ said at the top and possibly even carefully tap the bottoms from the bottom up like 284 said using lots of spray oil just thinking out loud...good job. :thumbsup:

btw I am the guy I mentioned earlier that welded in chunks of metal in liners and proceeded to pound/jack them out hehehe.

 

[tcartwri]

I wouldn't be swinging a hammer anywhere near those crank journals.

 

[Domush]

Well, it seems waiting it out works wonders for pulling cylinder liners, as I sprayed some Pb blaster on the #3 liner this evening and, using the new threaded rod, pulled the rest of it right out with hardly any force at all. Either A: I became Hercules over the past few days or B: PB blaster rocks (which I already knew). So, both liners are out and tomorrow I get to cleaning the block holes for the new ones.

I picked up the head today. The machine shop said they had to manually grind the seats, as the 336 head was chewing up their carbide bit. Go Yanmar! Making those indestructible heads. :thumbsup: The new seats look great, and the new valves fit them perfectly.

I used some lapping compound to get the new valves seated nicely and also worked on the old valves as well, to get a little pitting out and because.. why not? It's off, I had lapping compound.. sounds like all the reason I needed. Afterwards, I tested the valve seating by sraying some carb cleaner into the ports. All 6 valves didn't leak a drop, even over a few minutes. Perfect!

The head is ready to go.

I added a 1.4mm shim to each valve spring, seeing as i had the seats ground as well as the springs being 30 years old. I just hope they aren't too thick, as those were the slimmest the machine shop had which fit. Anyone know if there is a risk using too thick shims? Is too much spring tension a bad thing? Hastened cam shaft wear, maybe? We're only talking 1.4mm, but I'd rather ask around before reassembling it. I could likely get away with not using them. It's a toss up.

Tomorrow I'll be inserting the new liners and replacing the pistons rings and rod bearings. Hopefully I'll have the pistons reinserted by sundown. If there is time (and energy) left over, I'll see about getting the head reinstalled as well.

Reassembly has begun!